Switch conventional to synth, used 2014 Odyssey?.

[abird4]

Hey. I have lurked and searched here on occasion for years, and finally have a question I'd like to ask. 4-5 years ago I switched from conventional oil to synthetic in a 2004 Mazda6 wagon with about 90K miles. Within 10K miles I had significant leaking from engine seal(s) which along with some other issues made me decide to sell the car. I didn't know for sure that the switch caused it, but I came across a lot of information suggesting that it was possible.

Today I bought a 2014 Odyssey with 26K miles. Manual calls for 0w20 oil and says that synthetic can be used. I am reading that Honda make both a blend and a full-synthetic in that weight. Carfax shows that oil changes were done at a Ford dealership, every 7500 miles. I'm going to assume that they used conventional or a blend (which I understand is mostly conventional anyway). We plan to have car serviced at a local independent shop. I usually go with a 5k OCI. We plan to keep the car a good long while.

1) I'm a little gun-shy after my experience with the Mazda. What is my risk of leaks or other issues if I switch to full synthetic?
2) Aside from that risk, does it make a difference to go with full synthetic over a good conventional/blend with 5k OCI?
3) I usually pick Mobil 1 synthetic. Any reason to go with anything else?

Thanks for sharing your thoughts re: the above.

Tony

 

[mazdamonky]

Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy should be fine.

The general knowledge here is the Synthetic does not cause the leaks. They were there to start with or were being hidden. The synthetic just likes to take advantage of leaks that are already there or it can eat away varnish or sludge that is protecting a leak

 

[ET16]

Did your car have a Ford duratec? Those engines leak.

 

[abird4]

Thanks. I guess I was under the impression that using conventional oil for 90k contributed to the formation of a leak--is that not correct? Would the leak in my Mazda likely have developed if synthetic oil had been used from the beginning?

 

[Evili]

In my opinion, I'd say your Odyssey is perfect for switching over to full synthetic. If you go the full synthetic route, you should feel safe extending the OCI to 7.5k, perhaps even 10k. If you insist on a 5k OCI, you could save a few bucks by using a conventional/synthetic blend.

However, if the vehicle is still under warranty, I'd stick to the manufacturer's recommended OCI, which I think is something like 3,750 miles.

 

[abird4]

Don't know about duratec--in a quick search I see some non-definitive information re: duratec block. It was the Mazda 6s V6.

 

[abird4]

Originally Posted By: Evili
In my opinion, I'd say your Odyssey is perfect for switching over to Full Synthetic. If you go the Full Synthetic route, you should feel safe extending the OCI to 7.5k, perhaps even 10k. If you insist on a 5k OCI, you could save a few bucks by using a conventional/synthetic blend.

However, if the vehicle is still under warranty, I'd stick to the manufacturer's recommended OCI, which I think is something like 3,750 miles.


It is CPO and will be under powertrain warranty for another 74k miles. The recommended OCI is when the maintenance minder tells you to change it, and I'm pretty sure that would go beyond 7.5k. Our 2005 Odyssey would have another 40% oil life remaining when we changed it every 5k. Do most people run Full Synthetic 7.5k+ miles?

 

[gabriel9766]

Quote:
Do most people run Full Synthetic 7.5k+ miles?


Ive always use syn in my malibu and i usually change it around 20-10% oil life left. If i let it drop 2 0% it would prob run a 7.5K oil change.

 

[Ethan1]

Originally Posted By: ET16
Did your car have a Ford duratec? Those engines leak.


Duratec is a catch-all brand name that Ford uses for passenger car engines. You might be thinking of the 3.0 DOHC Duratec when you think of leaks LOL

 

[abird4]

Is there anything about running conventional oil instead of synthetic that would make a car more vulnerable to leaks over time?

 

[vronline]

I would run synthetic And change when the maintenance minder gets to 15%.

 

[Trav]

Does it have VCM? If so that's a whole different world as far as oil recommendations go. Conventional is 100% out of the question as is 7500 OCI. It will get through the warranty (maybe, many don't) with that interval but it will probably have a very short life after that before it totally fails.

 

[Indydriver]

Use any brand name synthetic that meets Honda's specs and you'll be fine. I'll bet the Ford dealer was putting 5w-20 Motorcraft in it. Much more important than the brand oil you choose is your commitment to check your oil levels frequently. This vehicle has a "VCM" cylinder de-activation engine. These were subject to a class action lawsuit that Honda settled. When the engine was in "Eco" mode for extended periods, oil would get past the piston rings of the deactivated cylinders and go straight out the exhaust leading to plug fouling, oil starvation and even seizure in some examples. You should be OK with '14 as Honda continued to modify and use this "technology" and even showed their confidence in the fix by extending it into their Acura brand. But just be aware that you should check your oil level frequently. Daily if you're on a trip.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: abird4
Is there anything about running conventional oil instead of synthetic that would make a car more vulnerable to leaks over time?

Not today. Most synthetic oils are HC conventional oils group III. Some of the original true synthetics could get an old engine pi$$in like a race horse but you wont find those anymore, today even they have seal protecting qualities in their add pack.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: Indydriver
You should be OK with '14 as Honda continued to modify and use this "technology". But just be aware that you should check your oil level frequently. Daily if you're on a trip.


That's what they said with VCM II and ended up getting their arse sued off. Don't believe it for a second, its a proven failed technology.
The name of the item is Muzzler and deactivate that garbage.

 

[Indydriver]

Yes, I know. My '11 Accord was included in the class action so I have followed it very closely. Mods were made in '11 engines to oil control rings and moly impregnated piston skirts. It has worked so far on our car as it doesn't burn oil at 55,000 miles. There's no question that Honda stonewalled a LOT of loyal customers between understanding they had a design problem and finally settling it. Among other things, they made all their dealers lie to all their customers with the charade that 1 qt/1000 miles of oil consumption is "normal".

OP, don't mean to make you nervous but is their anyway to find out if your vehicle has any history of oil consumption? It's a little odd for owners of these vehicles to give them up after only 24,000 miles.

 

[jayg]

double post

 

[jayg]

Originally Posted By: abird4
Hey. I have lurked and searched here on occasion for years, and finally have a question I'd like to ask. 4-5 years ago I switched from conventional oil to synthetic in a 2004 Mazda6 wagon with about 90K miles. Within 10K miles I had significant leaking from engine seal(s) which along with some other issues made me decide to sell the car. I didn't know for sure that the switch caused it, but I came across a lot of information suggesting that it was possible.

Today I bought a 2014 Odyssey with 26K miles. Manual calls for 0w20 oil and says that synthetic can be used. I am reading that Honda make both a blend and a full-synthetic in that weight. Carfax shows that oil changes were done at a Ford dealership, every 7500 miles. I'm going to assume that they used conventional or a blend (which I understand is mostly conventional anyway). We plan to have car serviced at a local independent shop. I usually go with a 5k OCI. We plan to keep the car a good long while.

1) I'm a little gun-shy after my experience with the Mazda. What is my risk of leaks or other issues if I switch to full synthetic?
2) Aside from that risk, does it make a difference to go with full synthetic over a good conventional/blend with 5k OCI?
3) I usually pick Mobil 1 synthetic. Any reason to go with anything else?

Thanks for sharing your thoughts re: the above.

Tony


The manual calls for 0w20 and I have never seen a conventional 0w20 so of course synthetic can be used because that is what it is specced for. I would run the cheapest 0w20 I could find and not think twice about it. It only has 26k miles, it's not 100k + of conventional.

 

[abird4]

Wow, I'm going to need to look into this VCM some more. Obviously not going to deactivate it until I learn a whole lot more.

In the meantime my working plan will be Mobil 1, 5k OCI, frequent oil level checks.

Was planning AFE--would EP make a difference? Any other suggestions?

 

[Crownedroyal]

Originally Posted By: abird4
Wow, I'm going to need to look into this VCM some more. Obviously not going to deactivate it until I learn a whole lot more.

In the meantime my working plan will be Mobil 1, 5k OCI, frequent oil level checks.

Was planning AFE--would EP make a difference? Any other suggestions?


If you plan on using the OEM maintenance reminder I would use a full synthetic. In my opinion the reminder pushes the envelope on how far you can stretch the OCI.

As for the VCM on Honda engine they work great. There is some issues with oil fouling the spark plugs on the cylinder's that deactivate. This is caused by someone at the engine assembly plant that can't install piston rings correctly, and line all the end gaps at the same point which allows oil to enter the combustion chamber while the cylinders are in valve pause mode. I have repaired may of these engines and can say once the piston rings are installed correctly there is no longer a issue with plug fouling. With this being said, NOT ALL vehicle are effected, just the ones that where assembled incorrectly.