Suspecting fuel dilution (2013 Sonata 2.0T)

[Swift101]

Hey Everyone,

I just checked my dipstick to see how my oil was doing and although it appears to be okay but it has a strong odor of gasoline to it. I'm some 310 miles away from hitting 3000 miles since my last oil change. I currently have 8500 miles on the car, I know fuel dilution is a common problem among DI turbo engines.

I was going to have my mechanic change the oil next Saturday (18th) but I may have it changed sooner since I will be at 3200 miles at that point. I'm worried about keeping it even 200 miles over because of the smell. Has anyone seen this problem work itself out eventually? I read a few posts indicating it gets better over time, but I'm unsure if this is true.

Thanks,
-Swift

 

[Brybo86]

a used oil analysis would either confirm your suspicion, or show that the fuel dilution is not effecting wear, without one we are all just guessing. Do you do a lot of short trips or highway miles?

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Swift101
because of the smell.

Your nose is not a replacement for a used oil analysis. In all honesty, even very small amounts of fuel in oil can give off strong fuel smell, yet are no cause for concern. Personally, I would not worry at all about a few more hundred miles on this oil.

 

[Swift101]

Originally Posted By: Brybo86
a used oil analysis would either confirm your suspicion, or show that the fuel dilution is not effecting wear, without one we are all just guessing. Do you do a lot of short trips or highway miles?


That's the thing I do a lot of highway driving but in the mornings it's mostly stop and go traffic. My commute it 25 miles each way, and on average it takes me 40 minutes. I do some short trip driving but I would say 75% highway 25% city.

The manual considers my driving habits severe and calls for a 3000 OCI. I've always changed my oil religiously at 3k but I'm worried to let this upcoming change slide even 100 miles.

I'll probably get a kit from Black Stone to see what's going on.

-Swift

 

[crazyoildude]

I heard this from a few people but Hyundai makes great engines with great warranties and that hurts us engine guys but thats why i own two.. I wish they were still cheap like they were 7 or so years ago.

 

[salv]

I work in service for a Hyundai dealer. The turbos and GDI engines are tough on oil. I wouldn't recommend going beyond 5k. If you make a lot of short trips, idle for long periods, or do a lot of stop and go driving, 3500 miles is good.

 

[silverrat]

You are new to the site and paranoid.

 

[wallyuwl]

Originally Posted By: salv
I work in service for a Hyundai dealer. The turbos and GDI engines are tough on oil. I wouldn't recommend going beyond 5k. If you make a lot of short trips, idle for long periods, or do a lot of stop and go driving, 3500 miles is good.


I was told this same thing by a tech at the GM dealer for our 2.2L DI engine on our Equinox. I had a major engine repair a couple months ago (thankfully under power train warranty). I've been going 6500 or so, which was still 20-30% left on the OLM, but he said to go 3000. Said they've had a lot of problems on those engines going more than that, but very few if people changed at 3000. I'm going to change it the next day over 50 degrees, am at about 2800 miles or so now on this OC.

 

[wemay]

I change at 3000 mi as well on the 2.0T Santa Fe Sport, no matter the oil type, syn or conv. It does not bother me in the least, I like changing the oil, there is always a good deal going on (even though I currently employ the maint pkg) and the used oil is recycled.

 

[rossn2]

Quote:
I was told this same thing by a tech at the GM dealer for our 2.2L DI engine on our Equinox. I had a major engine repair a couple months ago (thankfully under power train warranty). I've been going 6500 or so, which was still 20-30% left on the OLM, but he said to go 3000.


What major repair? Please explain..

 

[Swift101]

Originally Posted By: salv
I work in service for a Hyundai dealer. The turbos and GDI engines are tough on oil. I wouldn't recommend going beyond 5k. If you make a lot of short trips, idle for long periods, or do a lot of stop and go driving, 3500 miles is good.


Thanks everyone for the input.

I'll get it changed next weekend, I just got paranoid after smelling gas. My manual states I can use 5W-40, I wonder if it would help with fuel dilution. My understanding is that if enough gasoline gets into the oil it causes the oil viscosity to drop. So technically the Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 becomes 5w-20. Please correct me if I'm wrong, just exploring my options.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Swift101
My manual states I can use 5W-40


I have read this on other forums concerning the Sonata and Genesis Coupe, i dont understand why the Santa Fe Sport 2.0T does not. It only calls for 5w30 and 10w30... at least for the 2013 model year.

 

[Swift101]

Quote:
I have read this on other forums concerning the Sonata and Genesis Coupe, i dont understand why the Santa Fe Sport 2.0T does not. It only calls for 5w30 and 10w30... at least for the 2013 model year.


I find that strange as well considering it's the same engine. However I did find one post were someone with an Optima 2.0 T reached out to Shell regarding Rottela T6 (5w-40) and they responded saying it wasn't suited for our engine. They recommended 5w30 Pennzoil Platinum, Pennzoil Ultra or Quaker State Ultimate Durability instead.

I may consider using Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30, I heard its on the thicker side. But I have no idea how thick PU is for a 5w30 oil. It may not make sense to switch if PU can do the job.

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Swift101
My manual states I can use 5W-40


I have read this on other forums concerning the Sonata and Genesis Coupe, i dont understand why the Santa Fe Sport 2.0T does not. It only calls for 5w30 and 10w30... at least for the 2013 model year.

You will read about many turbo engines on this board that call for 5w30, but many people run Mobil 1 0w40 or Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40, and the used oil analysis section proves that they made the right decision.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Swift101
My manual states I can use 5W-40


I have read this on other forums concerning the Sonata and Genesis Coupe, i dont understand why the Santa Fe Sport 2.0T does not. It only calls for 5w30 and 10w30... at least for the 2013 model year.

You will read about many turbo engines on this board that call for 5w30, but many people run Mobil 1 0w40 or Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40, and the used oil analysis section proves that they made the right decision.


I suspect you may be right but many of us are handcuffed by warranty requirements.

 

[salv]

Selection Of Engine Oil

Recommendation : 5w30 ACEA A5 (If not available, refer to the recommended API or ILSAC classification)

API classification: SL or SM above

ILSAC classification : GF3, GF4 or above

ACEA Classification : A3 or A5

SAE viscosity grade : Refer to the recommended SAE viscosity number.

From the 2013 quick reference guide. Hyundai has a preference for Euro spec oils where the turbo motors are concerned. SL is acceptable. Two good 30 weights that fit this billing are Castrol Edge 0w30 and Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30.
As a Hyundai service pro, I cannot recommend 0w40, but unofficially, I recommend Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge 0w40.

 

[Swift101]

Originally Posted By: salv
Selection Of Engine Oil

Recommendation : 5w30 ACEA A5 (If not available, refer to the recommended API or ILSAC classification)

API classification: SL or SM above

ILSAC classification : GF3, GF4 or above

ACEA Classification : A3 or A5

SAE viscosity grade : Refer to the recommended SAE viscosity number.

From the 2013 quick reference guide. Hyundai has a preference for Euro spec oils where the turbo motors are concerned. SL is acceptable. Two good 30 weights that fit this billing are Castrol Edge 0w30 and Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30.
As a Hyundai service pro, I cannot recommend 0w40, but unofficially, I recommend Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge 0w40.


Thanks for the recommendation Salv, I have 2 jugs of Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 to get through for now. Once I use them up, I'll consider Castrol or Mobil 1. Would you happen to know how Pennzoil Ultra handles fuel dilution?

 

[SHOZ]

I use the 0w40 in my 2010 Gen Coupe turbo. I don't drive it much in the winter after the snow falls though. Oil pressure regularly pegs the pump relief at 75 lbs when cold or at high rpm. Thinking of going back to 0w30 next change for good.

The engines IMHO run too cold at 180F. At least mine does with an upgraded radiator. I would like to use a 190F t-stat but can't find one.

I did add a oil cooler/heater to it like the 2013s have and it does a good job of getting the oil up to temp. Still in 10-20F temps the oil will run at 180F tops. Putzing around at 40 mph the oil will run about 170F when using a lot of heater.

 

[wallyuwl]

Originally Posted By: rossn2
Quote:
I was told this same thing by a tech at the GM dealer for our 2.2L DI engine on our Equinox. I had a major engine repair a couple months ago (thankfully under power train warranty). I've been going 6500 or so, which was still 20-30% left on the OLM, but he said to go 3000.


What major repair? Please explain..


I don't even know fully, it was never explained to me in detail. I assumed it would be listed on the paperwork so I didn't ask before leaving, but really the paperwork was just a long list of parts. I'm guessing since it was warranty they didn't put as much detail into it. My best guess, based off of the parts list, is that the high pressure fuel pump went bad, and in replacing that they found some valves and other engine parts that were bad (maybe because of fuel dilution in the oil over time?). They also replaced the coolant and, obviously, an oil change.

 

[Garak]

I think Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 would fit the A5/B5 mention nicely, as would M1 or Syntec.