Surf City Garage Introduces Vintage Car Motor Oil

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Surf City Garage Introduces Vintage Car Motor Oil.
Comes with 2,000 PPM of Zinc.

Available in 10w-40, 20w-50 and SAE 30 weights.

http://surfcitygarage.com/vintage-car-motor-oil.html

A snip:

"To separate fact from fiction and really find out for ourselves how big this zinc-less oil issue is, we did our own experiment. The test mule was a newly restored 1967 Pontiac GTO 400 V8, four-speed convertible. The plan was simple: fill the freshly rebuilt engine with break-in oil and do our normal startup procedure. Fire the engine and take it to 2200 RPM for 20 minutes, then idle down through the RPM range and make any adjustments needed. We then would put a few break-in miles on the engine to seat the rings under load. Next, we’d drain the break-in oil and fill the crank case with a good multi-grade oil without zinc and replace the filter. Next, we were to drive the car under normal road conditions for 500 miles and pull the engine apart to check for wear. The internal components consisted of tried and tested combinations that we knew worked well. The engine ran flawlessly through 50 to 60 miles. But at about 80 miles into the test, we noticed a slight tick that quickly became a knock, which a stethoscope confirmed was coming from the top of the engine.

The engine still made good power and ran fine but seemed to be getting worse with the knock. We pulled the engine and removed all its parts, carefully inspecting each of them. Overall, the internal parts looked as they should, basically new. There was one big exception: the camshaft and lifters. We saw right away that the cam lobes were visibly flat and worn unevenly. The bottom of the lifter base was also worn excessively for an engine with 80 miles on it. The camshaft and lifter set were manufactured by one of the largest cam companies around and we have used this same cam number at least 50 times with no issues at all. The cam pictured is the actual camshaft from our test car.

The results of this test were so convincing to us that we spent the next six months working with oil and lubrication experts to develop our own engine oil with zinc protection. Some may say that is an extreme reaction, but it’s pretty normal here at Surf City Garage. We have to know for ourselves what’s in the bottle. Today, Vintage Car Motor Oil is all we use in every one of our 100+ cars.
"
 
According to them, no cats before 1985? Believe it was slightly earlier than that, like 1975? That must have been an awfully high lift, SOFT cam to flatten a lobe that quick!
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
According to them, no cats before 1985? Believe it was slightly earlier than that, like 1975? That must have been an awfully high lift, SOFT cam to flatten a lobe that quick!


The whole cam lobe thing seems to be really blown out of proportion .
 
$9.34 a quart (marked down from 10.99)for DINO oil that apparently carries no certifications of any kind?!?! I don't think so. You can get Amsoil Z-Rod for that price, or a good synthetic HDEO for half the price.
 
They already have vintage motor oil: MaxiGuard
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Originally Posted By: Garak
2000 ppm seems a tad much. I'd also like to see how they filled "the crank case with a good multi-grade oil without zinc." That would be a pretty neat trick.


They must have had to go to Germany to get the Fuchs brand oil, the only one on the planet practically that has NO zddp. Yeah, right, I'll bet they did that...... Everybody else uses zddp in some substantial amount. Vintage car owners who need higher zddp levels should use Mobil1 0w-40 or one of their high mileage M1 oils. https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.ashx

Really, who is going to run an oil with no zddp? This test seems bogus. 500 miles? Really?
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
2000 ppm seems a tad much.

Read someplace that above around 1500 ppm, too much zddp begins cracking the metallurgy on the surface over time. Its been studied a lot. M1 Racing oil 0w-30 VOAs show 2200 ppm zddp, but that stuff is a racing oil.

A proper test would have been to put in SuperTech or PYB SN 5w-30 for a lower-zinc test. Then run it for a while. That stuff about it developing a tick just doesn't pass the smell test. A vintage owner also has the option of dropping in some LM MOS2 additive as well.
 
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Couldn't vintage car owners also use VR1 20W50 or Pennzoil GT 25W50? Can't remember which one has more zddp,I'm thinking maybe the Pennzoil?
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Couldn't vintage car owners also use VR1 20W50 or Pennzoil GT 25W50? Can't remember which one has more zddp,I'm thinking maybe the Pennzoil?


a lot of options. Could add pure zddp concentrate per bottle instructions. Could diesel engine oils, or mix in 1 quart of M1 Racing Oil 0w-30 with their normal M1 10w-30 to raise zddp.
 
Good comments, guys. I just threw it out there as an FYI, not recommending, etc.
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What they say is interesting without a doubt. A UOA would equally interesting!
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
According to them, no cats before 1985? Believe it was slightly earlier than that, like 1975? That must have been an awfully high lift, SOFT cam to flatten a lobe that quick!


My first car (1978 Grand Prix) had a catalytic converter. Doing a bit of Googling, it looks like cars started needing them in 1975.
 
Typical advertising. Anyone who knows how to rebuild an engine should know what oil/additives and procedure to use to properly break it in. If they don't they'll learn how to do it the second time around. Hopefully.
 
Originally Posted By: ExMachina
They must have had to go to Germany to get the Fuchs brand oil, the only one on the planet practically that has NO zddp.

Either that, or used a diesel two stroke only oil.
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I suspect they did neither Fuchs nor a diesel only oil. And they said "good" so they can't mean City Star or something like that. So, they're exaggerating.

And yes, that level of ZDDP is corrosive, and this is what really bugs me. Defy goes GF-5 while we have jokers like this selling something that's virtually useless, and probably actually harmful. They're expensive as Joe Gibbs, and I give that stuff a really hard time here. I'd use the Joe Gibbs first. And what would ever lead me to use this stuff ahead of M1 racing?
 
I'm guessing what they did was buy the cheapest conventional oil they could find in bulk, then simply add pure ZDDP (easily obtained) to it to pump it up to 2000 ppm. Put their own label on it, and wallah, we've got ourselves an oil to sell over the internet.
 
That poor ol Pontiac has 1.5 rockers and wiped a cam?

My poor ol BBC has .375 lobe lift mech FT & 1.8 rockers on the intake side, 1.7s on the exhaust. Heavy 2.30/1.88 valves,
and hasn't wiped the cam yet on run of the mill 15W40.

How? +.250 pushrods and valves stems, 2.15" installed spring height and low ratio rockers for the break-in.

At start up, everything was primed, set and ready to fire with the push of a button or turn of a key.

Do you know what revving your engine to 2500 rpm does to the oil temperature after 20 minutes?

Reason #1001

Well it heats it up enough to thin out and wipe the cam.
 
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
$9.34 a quart (marked down from 10.99)for DINO oil that apparently carries no certifications of any kind?!?! I don't think so. You can get Amsoil Z-Rod for that price, or a good synthetic HDEO for half the price.


Or you could've purchased S.L.O.B. (Street Legal Oil Boost) for about a $1/bottle at Big Lots.
It's funny how the oil that was selling for $2/quart just a few years ago is now $10/quart and it's hyped up like it's liquid gold.
 
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