SuperTech Full Synthetic oil - Anyone doing 10k OCI with it, and any issues with sludge/varnish.

[Bill7]

I had the valve covers 15000 miles prior when I put the engine in and it was clean.
It was the lower end supertech synthetic. Not the 20K mile variant if I remember right.

The car had seen a bit of towing, a few highway trips, a winter commute ... Definitely qualified for severe service .

I know it's scientifically impossible to know for sure, but in your opinion, would any Group III synthetic have had the same result as SuperTech of the 11k severe service with towing and the new little varnish under the valve cover near the PCV that you saw?

 

[factorytuned2012]

(the 20k just had a slightly more generous additive package with extra phosphorous / zinc.

Could this harm catalytic converters?

 

[Urshurak776]

Answer to this question, regardless of oil type, vehicle, vehicle use, or interval, is the same.

Run to 5K, do a UOA. If good, run to 7500, do a UOA. Etc.

The ONLY way, you will know for sure if the oil choice and periodicity fits you and your vehicle. Everything else is noise.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

I was planning on using the SuperTech High Mileage Full Synthetic, which is marketed as a 10,000 mile oil.
Some VOA's on BITOG showed very little difference between the ST 10k and 20k oils (the 20k just had a slightly more generous additive package with extra phosphorous / zinc.

The base oil might / probably is also improved.
I've seen a difference using both..... oil pan remains and blot test on the dipstick oil.
I would buy the Supertech Advanced 20k oil again, but not the 10k. It's probably only $3 more and worth the measly small amount difference.

 

[BISCUT]

There are Supertech Syn runs over 10K with Ecoboost engines on the UOA forum with good results. That said it probably depends quite a bit on your use case. If you're doing all highway, 10K should be no issue in an Ecoboost with any group III synthetic. If it's doing soccer mom duty with lots of idling, I would change at 5K or sooner, personally speaking.

You are correct, Sir. Do we know if those represent largely highway miles? Either way, past my comfort level with an ECO DI.

 

[Bryanccfshr]

I have run a couple of intervals with Kirkland synthetic for 10k in my Tacoma..lots of highway usage and fast, didn’t give it a second thought. Went to M1 0w40 after that and am on my third 1 year to 10k interval with it. Before that I ran the shell truck and suv a few intervals, Castrol magnetic for 1 and a couple of intervals of dealer fill during factory maintenance period. I have no concerns. 6 year old truck averaging a little less than 15 k miles a year. Doesn’t use or add oil enough to correct.

I drove a 2.7 eco f 150 in the oil fields and the owner never allowed the oil to be changed before factory recommendations. It didn’t use or lose oil either. Now the f150 I drove for years with the 4.6 v8. It really didn’t matter.

 

[Allaneddie]

You might be banned from BITOG if you do that but I bet it is no problem. I do annual changes on my GTI (VW recommends 1 year or 10000 but I only get about 6000 miles on it every year. Here at BITOG 6000 miles is heresy for a direct injection engine

 

[Patman]

You might be banned from BITOG if you do that but I bet it is no problem. I do annual changes on my GTI (VW recommends 1 year or 10000 but I only get about 6000 miles on it every year. Here at BITOG 6000 miles is heresy for a direct injection engine

I have been doing 7000 to 7500 mile OCIs in my direct injected 2018 Corvette with no problems. Oil analysis has shown it to be safe in my case, I don’t have any fuel dilution at all in this car.

 

[OilUzer]

2007 Honda Odyssey EX-L with VCM Enabled.

That's not a DI engine. No?

I would get the 20K miles oil as @Triple_Se7en has suggested for $3 more and 7500 miles OCIs and get it over with.

You are not driving that much or have a fleet of cars. Do you?
Even if you drive 15K miles per year, that's $6 extra for a 20K miles oil per year. Change the filter every other time. Pump the oil out when not changing the filter if you have one. Nice and easy!

Maybe an overkill according to some but a little better oil and a little less mileage to be on the safe side.

Last but not least, plus it's an older engine, I would use a thicker oil.

 

[Jaguar-EC]

FYI it's not a synthetic oil, it is made of group 2 mineral oils. I'm not saying it's a bad product, its just not synthetic.
I looked up its safety data sheet which listed the oils it is made of and both oils had characteristics of group 2 oils.
I learned how to classify oils by their characteristics because you can't go by the labels because companies lie a lot about products being synthetic.

 

[Oldwolf]

Subscribed

 

[Bill7]

FYI it's not a synthetic oil, it is made of group 2 mineral oils. I'm not saying it's a bad product, its just not synthetic.
I looked up its safety data sheet which listed the oils it is made of and both oils had characteristics of group 2 oils.
I learned how to classify oils by their characteristics because you can't go by the labels because companies lie a lot about products being synthetic.

Would you mean it's base oil starts out as Group II, and then gets further refinement that turns it into group III oil.
Would it be correct to say that all Group III synthetics start out as Group II and then get refined into a Group III oil?