Supercharged Mustang needs Auto-RX?

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Hi Guys,

My 1991 Mustang GT has a Vortech supercharger and the car has 58k original miles on it with a leaky RMS. I currently run Mobil 1 10W-40 and rarely drive the vehicle so the oil has been in there since Feb '09. But it's time to change it (dirty from blow by) and yes, I am running an OEM PCV ( SVO pcv valve which is better for boosted engines) and eventually I do need to run an oil separator to keep my both my oil cleaner and the entire intake track.

So onto my question. I am very interested to run Auto-RX in this car for the sole reason of hopefully curing my RMS leak. Problem is that I want to maintain my use of Mobil 1 due to the supercharger and I barely drive the car.

How should I approach this?

Could I perhaps change the oil this weekend and then add ARX a week or two down the line?

Thanks in advance.
 
considering how little you drive the car, Auto-RX is probably not a good option for you.
 
There's what's called the Fast Track method. I don't know how it would do on your seal leak. It's mainly for piston ring decoking. You basically run a double dose. If you drive it hard you may want to go up a tick in viscosity. If it's really dirty, change out the filter after 500 miles and cut it open if possible.

The main issue with M1 is the diesters that are probably in there to compete with Auto-Rx. It's not as big an issue in the initial application (cleaning phase) as much as it in in the rinse phase (following sump).

Consider Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 for both if you're insisting on a synthetic. The conventional 15w-40 should work fine for this limited duration of use.

I tried to figure out which filter you were using, but when I put Mustang GT into the Wix filter site, it started in 1994. Anyway/either way, you've got a 3/4-16 thread filter. If the FL1A fits, great.

Good luck.
 
I run the FL1-A filter and the car is pretty much stock other than the Vortech.

Does the Rotella oil not contain any diesters? I guess I could run a conventional oil for a short time but still will it be worth it to go through this ARX ordeal?

If I want to just help clean up the motor could I run MB1 and MMO together?
 
I'm not sure why you're running for autorx for a rear main seal leak. Are things dirty, or is this a hail mary? If this thing has been run for the last xxx years on M1, I doubt deposits are your problem. If M1 is good for anything, it keeps things clean that's for sure.
 
A hail Mary!

Before I had the blower installed, I was running Valvoline Racing 20W-50 and the oil always would impressed me how clean it would remain - until I added the supercharger ..lol
 
M1 has a reputation for keeping engines very clean, so I doubt you really need the cleaning of ARX. If you want to keep using M1 you might want to try M1 High Mileage to see if it can help the seal leak
 
Fastsvo,

I had an oil leak on my 5.0 at the rear of the pan gasket. I put in some white shepard and the leak stopped. Since then I have used conventional Valvoline 10w-30 and the leak has not come back. I won't lie, I had to use it twice. But it's stayed dry ever since. May be worth a shot. In my case it was much cheaper than the real repair.

Jim
 
If you've had good luck with Mobil 1 stick with it. As others mentioned I would consider their HM oil and see if that helps. I tried A-Rx for leaks they slowed down, I thought stopped and then came back in all their glory.

I have a leak currently that is going to require replacing a seal or gasket, I won't know until the temps cool off though. I'm not going to crawl under the vehicle in this weather!
 
So, I changed the oil yesterday right after running a bottle of sea foam through the vacuum line (a quick drive around the block and the car seemed to have more spunk off the line).

I used M1 HM 10W-40, Motorcraft FL1-A filter, and poured in 8oz of MMO.

I need to make sure it's my RMS leaking because there is also a lot of oil seeping around the low oil level sensor, but I most likely have two areas of leakage.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
There's what's called the Fast Track method. I don't know how it would do on your seal leak. It's mainly for piston ring decoking. You basically run a double dose. If you drive it hard you may want to go up a tick in viscosity. If it's really dirty, change out the filter after 500 miles and cut it open if possible.

The main issue with M1 is the diesters that are probably in there to compete with Auto-Rx. It's not as big an issue in the initial application (cleaning phase) as much as it in in the rinse phase (following sump).

Consider Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 for both if you're insisting on a synthetic. The conventional 15w-40 should work fine for this limited duration of use.

I tried to figure out which filter you were using, but when I put Mustang GT into the Wix filter site, it started in 1994. Anyway/either way, you've got a 3/4-16 thread filter. If the FL1A fits, great.

Good luck.


Cant he just use SuperTech? Im going to do an Auto-Rx app on the Probe and Rinse it before i use my preferred Oil (people say they have best results with 5000 miles initial app, then 5000 miles Rinse, Double Dose? I may, if soem have had good results with that, akin to "De-sludging" instructions)..

However the best Oils Auto-Rx says to use is basically blue-bottle SuperTech from WalMart, and someone else said Delo 400 from WM will do the trick too (Thats an HDEO.)

Given those two choices, would you choosr 15W-40 Delo 400, or 10W-40 SuperTech, for Auto-Rx And you are saying We (me and the OP) should use a Double Dose, not the 3 oz per Quart, to de-coke our Piston Rings and Ring Packs?
 
That silver can of restore worked on my 84 mustang with a 306 (heads/cam/intake/longtubes..) Then I threw in a 408 (popped out 351) with a blower and threw a rod almost through the fender. FUN!
 
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