gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
So, the vibration is not detrimental? I can live with the vibration if it's safe. I spent $120 for new CV shafts. I'd rather not spend any more if I don't have to.
Subie Vibration
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gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
I spoke with the guy at Advance Auto. He's going to order me another GSP axle for the passenger side. If the vibration remains, I'll just have to live with it. Here's hoping it was the passenger-side shaft all along...
I've had mine in for around 40k...140k on the clock. It vibrates, gets worse if you have the AC on (at idle)...its a daily driver and not a show car, so it never really bothered me.
If you read any of the subaru forums, its a common issue.
If you read any of the subaru forums, its a common issue.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: deeter16317
I've had mine in for around 40k...140k on the clock. It vibrates, gets worse if you have the AC on (at idle)...its a daily driver and not a show car, so it never really bothered me.
If you read any of the subaru forums, its a common issue.
Yep, I've read a few on legacygt.com and nasioc.com
My issue here is that it happened so suddenly. It has always had the Subie "rough" idle, but that was nothing compared to this. To me, if something changes suddenly, it most likely isn't an inherent Subie issue. Mine is just a DD, too, so this is more of an educationally curiosity than a gotta-fix-it-now kind of thing. I'm going to change out the passenger-side CV shaft once more with a new GSP and, if that doesn't fix it, I'll slowly tinker around with other options, all free or cheap.
I've had mine in for around 40k...140k on the clock. It vibrates, gets worse if you have the AC on (at idle)...its a daily driver and not a show car, so it never really bothered me.
If you read any of the subaru forums, its a common issue.
Yep, I've read a few on legacygt.com and nasioc.com
My issue here is that it happened so suddenly. It has always had the Subie "rough" idle, but that was nothing compared to this. To me, if something changes suddenly, it most likely isn't an inherent Subie issue. Mine is just a DD, too, so this is more of an educationally curiosity than a gotta-fix-it-now kind of thing. I'm going to change out the passenger-side CV shaft once more with a new GSP and, if that doesn't fix it, I'll slowly tinker around with other options, all free or cheap.
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gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
I replaced the passenger-side drive shaft yesterday; vibration hasn't changed. : (
Either there's an inherent design issue between Subies and new GSP CV shafts or something else coincidentally began vibrating very soon after replacing the CV shafts the first time.
Back to the drawing board...
Either there's an inherent design issue between Subies and new GSP CV shafts or something else coincidentally began vibrating very soon after replacing the CV shafts the first time.
Back to the drawing board...
gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
I figured I'd update this; maybe some one will take interest and hand me a silver bullet
Regardless of whether the car is cold or fully warmed up, it will usually vibrate moderately - think of an outboard two stroke type of unbalanced something vibration, but with out the two stroke noise, and the motor runs seemingly fine, though 1/50 starts from stop will hesitate a little - when I come to a full stop. It will not vibrate at 1/2 mph, but only when fully stopped or inching forward with the brakes applied.
Something new that was only rarely noticeable before, but is becoming much more prevalent is a vibrating rattle that does NOT sound like metal on metal. It happens whether the brakes are applied or not (e.g., if I'm on a hill with the car in D, not moving, and no brakes applied.) If I press down very firmly on the brakes the vibration will subside. The booster, master cylinder and pedal to booster pivot/mount are all seemingly solid, so I think it's something unrelated to the vibration vibrating against the firewall; something that stops rattling when the firewall is slightly flexed when I stomp on the brake pedal (just a guess until I investigate further.
I noticed that while accelerating (hard or moderate, even) the vibration isn't that bad in 2nd and 3rd gear (auto tranny), but when it's an uphill jont, it'll vibrate pretty badly.
Hopefully some one can help. FWIW, I still do hear some clicking - one, not rapidly like a failed CV shaft would produce - while maneuvering at slow speeds (e.g., making a three-point turn.) I have a feeling that this noise has more to do with worn bushings some where rather than what's causing my vibration, but I figured I'd throw it out there.
Regardless of whether the car is cold or fully warmed up, it will usually vibrate moderately - think of an outboard two stroke type of unbalanced something vibration, but with out the two stroke noise, and the motor runs seemingly fine, though 1/50 starts from stop will hesitate a little - when I come to a full stop. It will not vibrate at 1/2 mph, but only when fully stopped or inching forward with the brakes applied.
Something new that was only rarely noticeable before, but is becoming much more prevalent is a vibrating rattle that does NOT sound like metal on metal. It happens whether the brakes are applied or not (e.g., if I'm on a hill with the car in D, not moving, and no brakes applied.) If I press down very firmly on the brakes the vibration will subside. The booster, master cylinder and pedal to booster pivot/mount are all seemingly solid, so I think it's something unrelated to the vibration vibrating against the firewall; something that stops rattling when the firewall is slightly flexed when I stomp on the brake pedal (just a guess until I investigate further.
I noticed that while accelerating (hard or moderate, even) the vibration isn't that bad in 2nd and 3rd gear (auto tranny), but when it's an uphill jont, it'll vibrate pretty badly.
Hopefully some one can help. FWIW, I still do hear some clicking - one, not rapidly like a failed CV shaft would produce - while maneuvering at slow speeds (e.g., making a three-point turn.) I have a feeling that this noise has more to do with worn bushings some where rather than what's causing my vibration, but I figured I'd throw it out there.
Do a compression test. There is something going on with one of your cylinders. Either spark, fuel or compression. A CV joint will not cause the car to vibrate when it's setting still.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
One of the things bought with the recent AAP spend-$100-get-$50-coupon deal was a compression tester. The only thing that leads me to believe it's anything BUT the engine is how well it performs at highway speeds with the torque converter locked up. for a slowbaru 2.5L, she really does pull on the highway (and downhill) when called upon to do so. It's literally ONLY when in second (mostly) and third gear while accelerating (mildly to agressively) uphill or while fully stopped that I have the vibration. RPM's, according to my scangauge, stay dead nuts on 670 when this occurs while stopped.
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gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
Oh, and I haven't burned a drop of oil (according to the dipstick, checked every time I fuel up) in the past 4500 miles.
The rattling I feel in the brake pedal while stopped, regardless of whether I'm braking, is akin to a hard, heavy rubber pole or bracket resting in the engine compartment agains the fire wall, vibrating against the fire wall or whatever. I feel it in the brake pedal, but not in the steering wheel.
The rattling I feel in the brake pedal while stopped, regardless of whether I'm braking, is akin to a hard, heavy rubber pole or bracket resting in the engine compartment agains the fire wall, vibrating against the fire wall or whatever. I feel it in the brake pedal, but not in the steering wheel.
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Have you checked the motor mounts (and transmission mount)...these will cause a rattle when they fail.
does the car have a harmonic balancer?
gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: deeter16317
Have you checked the motor mounts (and transmission mount)...these will cause a rattle when they fail.
I posted the condition of the mounts in my OP if you want to check there and get back to me. Only one of the three looks old, but not beat up, loose or anything that would indicate failure.
Originally Posted By: parimento1
does the car have a harmonic balancer?
Uh, it did. The previous owner replaced the failing crank pulley with an aftermarket lightweight pulley. I might search the junk yards for an OEM one and try that out if all else fails. Why would that only manifest itself now, though, 40kmi after he changed it out.
Have you checked the motor mounts (and transmission mount)...these will cause a rattle when they fail.
I posted the condition of the mounts in my OP if you want to check there and get back to me. Only one of the three looks old, but not beat up, loose or anything that would indicate failure.
Originally Posted By: parimento1
does the car have a harmonic balancer?
Uh, it did. The previous owner replaced the failing crank pulley with an aftermarket lightweight pulley. I might search the junk yards for an OEM one and try that out if all else fails. Why would that only manifest itself now, though, 40kmi after he changed it out.
You mentioned in an earlier post that the alternator pulley or shaft was bent. That's an obvious source of vibration and just wondering if you've fixed that?
gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
The alternator shaft may be bent, since the pulley makes a very light squeak at the same point of rotation when you spin it by hand with the belt off. This vibration is pretty substantial, and is getting worse now along with the rattle. I'll have'er up on the lift soon - maybe something will be obvious this time.
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