Subaru WRX Analysis

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I recently bought an '02 WRX and more recently found this forum. My question is, has anybody done or seen an analysis on the WRX 2.0L Turbo application? Approaching the 500 mile mark, any suggestions?
 
well, I would change the oil at 1000-2000 mile mark. Definatly go to a synthetic( mobile 1 or Amsoil ...or Bob here likes Shaffers) (I can't find that aywhere) then after 3000 mile instead of changing the oil just have an analysis done to see how it is holding up.
Also I would always make sure that you let the engine idle for 30 second before shutting it off..will help cool down the turbo bearings.
 
Read the owners manual. WRXs have a break-in period,(As I recall, you have to be pretty easy on them for the first few thousand miles) and the factory fill is a mineral based break-in oil. I'd change it at 1000 miles, but stay with conventional mineral based oils for the first 7500 miles.
 
Member # 75

posted August 16, 2002 09:46 AM
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Read the owners manual. WRXs have a break-in period,(As I recall, you have to be pretty easy on them for the first few thousand miles) and the factory fill is a mineral based break-in oil. I'd change it at 1000 miles, but stay with conventional mineral based oils for the first 7500 miles.
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Posts: 341 | From: Houston, TX | Registered: Jun 2002 | IP: Logged

Is a mineral based oil better known as a conventional oil? And if so, which one works best for the WRX application. If not, what is it and where would I find it? BTW the Subaru of America recommende breakin period stands at 1000 miles. There is an insightful post in the interesting articles section about breaking in a 4 stroke motor.
 
I'd really like to see someone with a AWD Soob (or any other AWD car) test some of the competing gear/tranny oils out there.
smile.gif


--- Bror Jace
 
Unless the manual gives you aspecific reasons not to switch to syn in the early milage, I would go with it asap. The days of prolonged ring seating are long over. Mobil 1 claims there never was any reason, even in the old days not to use syn during "breakin". I have broken in 4 cars with syn, all changed over within the first K milage - no problems. My 2L Nissan was converted at under 50 miles. It uses maybe 1/2 ounce (at most) per 1K miles.
 
I agree with Al, there are enough new cars that come with synthetic that prove that the rings
will still be seated properly. Besides, as we've found out on here, synthetic oil isn't any more
"slippery" than conventional oil anyways. It simply has a different base oil which allows for
longer drain intervals, lower pour points and higher flash points. But it's not a magic oil that
will give you an extra 20% in MPG. A conventional oil with a better antiwear package will be
more "slippery" than a synthetic oil with an inferior antiwear package any day of the week.
 
The reason I say stick with conventional oil, is that Subaru specs a conventional oil for break-in from the factory and as I recall, does not recommend a first change for 7500 miles. If they are supplying it with conventional, and the car does require a break in, I would not change to synthetic until the break-in period is over. I would change to synthetic before "getting on it for real."

I'm not saying that synthetic(especially a group III) would cause problems, but when in doubt, go with the manufacturers example.

I remember someone saying how for the first X miles, you were basically not supposed to use the turbo
Whenever the manual say's it is OK to drive normally, that is when I would switch to synthetic. I'd probably go with Mobil 1 0W40 or if warranty constrains to 10W30, Schaeffers.
 
Brian,

If you decide to use Amsoil in this application, my recommendation would be their Series 3000, 5w-30 (HDD). It has the most robust additive chemistry of any of their oils. This product is marketed as a HD diesel oil, but is one of the few SAE 5w-30's to meet the ACEA A3/B3 specifications for high temp/high shear viscosity. in the applications I've tried it in, it holds up significantly better than their regular 5w-30 (ASL) synthetic engine oil.

If you are running mobil 1, their 10w-30 would be a good choice ....

Ted
 
I have an AWD 3000GT VR-4 6 spd. I tried the Amsoil 75W90 GL 5 in rear end and Gl-4 in tranny and transfer case but saw no diff in cold shifting over the OEM. I switched to RedLine MT-90 and saw a significant diff in cold shifting. At next change I am going to RedLine Gl-5 80W90 in rear end and a 50-50 mix of RedLine MT-90 (75W90)and MTL (70W80) (GL-4) in tranny and transfer case. Owners of this car feel the 50-50 mix is a winner for cold shifting. This is only a issue in the first 5-10 miles depending on temp.
 
I like to hear that others have had good luck with Red Line's gear oils. They were the first of their products that I tried ... and I liked them so much I eventually went to to use some of their other products like the fuel system cleaner and (eventually) motor oils.

--- Bror Jace
 
Bror
I'm testing Redline S1-1 fuel cleaner ( a freebie from Redline). What did you think of it? I usually use Lucas UCL but had to try the S1-1 as I'm getting tied up with Redline soon probably in business reltionship.
 
Thak you everyone for replying to my question. There really were some great replys and intersesting conversation. Really, I appreciate it.

What I have decided to do is change my motor oil at 1000 miles. Subaru of America recommends just 1000 miles for a break in. I have been over the 4000 RPM mark several times but only up to about 5K. SOA likes 4K. I'm approaching 800 miles now. Hey it's a four stroker, let it go.

The oil of choice will be Schaeffers 7000 10W-30. I thank both Bob and Terry for their insightful guidance. Man, what a help the've been. I'm actually going to set up the whole family. Perhaps Terry will do all of our analysis and provide all of you with some real world views of Schaeffer's oil. I'm also going with the manual tranny fluid and differential fluid from Schaeffer and any other product they can provide for the WRX application.

Thanx Again,

Brian
 
Brian, I'm trying the same oil in that same weight once my heavily-used Civic gets its headgasket replaced.
smile.gif


Sprintman, I have no problems with my Hondas or Acuras and use 1-2 bottles of SI-1 each year. Coincidence? Maybe.
dunno.gif


I've said beofre that my buddy had an old VeeDubb Rabbit and the thing was getting 24 mpg. I gave him a bottle of Red Line SI-1 which was mostly empty and the car immediately went to 31 mpg.
shocked.gif


I'll be trying 131 Neutra in a handful of weeks.

--- Bror Jace
 
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