Subaru Brake Service

[The Critic]

As part of their brake pad replacement procedure, Subaru wants the installer to apply a thin coat of the included copper lube to the outside of the bracket clips. To me, I do not see this accomplishing anything aside from attracting dirt. If one wants to prevent rust from growing and locking the pads in place, it would make more sense to apply lube to the caliper bracket before installing the clips.

Can anyone think of a logical reason for applying lube to the outside of the bracket clips?

 

[UG_Passat]

Less chance of making noise between the pad backing and the anti-rattle clip

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted by UG_Passat
Less chance of making noise between the pad backing and the anti-rattle clip

I suppose, but hardware usually does not make noise unless it is worn-out. And I doubt grease will do much for worn hardware.

Subaru's do tend to be used in wet/salty climates due to their excellent AWD. Perhaps the grease is intended to provide an extra layer of insurance against rust developing on the exposed areas? The provided copper grease is an extremely sticky silicone-type grease that appears to also contain copper. But for those of us in dry areas, the grease just becomes a dirt magnet. Perhaps this is one situation where following the repair instructions was not the best idea...

 

[Chris Meutsch]

I would always add grease. No matter the dirt/dust situation.

 

[Donald]

Did you also put some on the caliper bracket whether the clips fit in? Its needed there also.

 

[JeffKeryk]

The clips are stainless, so they shouldn't rust, right?
I use a q-tip to put a little under the clips and to put just a little on top, toward the outer edge where the pad ears contact.
And just a little on the ears. Of course wipe off any excess...

I don't think I have seen a dirt problem doing it this way. And I just replaced the pads and rotors on our old TSX.
I installed the parts using this process last time, years ago.
The pads wore evenly, no binding, etc. All good.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted by Donald
Did you also put some on the caliper bracket whether the clips fit in? Its needed there also.

No - rust is a non-issue out here. And it was not in the service procedure.

 

[mk378]

Drawing A does show putting grease on the inside surfaces of the clip, where the pad touches. It's to keep the pads from hanging up or squeaking. If rust is not a problem that is the only place it is needed.

With that said it isn't always needed there either.

 

[Donald]

There needs to be normal and rust belt instructions.

 

[Lolvoguy]

The added grease/copper paint is to prevent noise.

I had a mechanic years ago who applied silicone to the backs of my new pads before installation.
He insisted on doing it (mostly on cheaper pads) as they would emit noise during breaking.
I learnt this the hard way when I went to replace the pads years later with another set of cheap pads that howled but produced almost no brake dust.

 

[Trav]

I was taught to do that over 40 years ago and have always done it on every car. The pads never stick in the bracket, I do the bracket and the clip, just a little no need to load it up.
In areas where salt and chemical deicers are used things are a lot different.

 

[krismoriah72]

Out of the last 10 brake jobs i have done i have had to file 5 or so sets of pad ears to slide nicely in the pad clip.

By filing i create a steel pad on pad clip, so in those situations i like to use copper grease.

If not filing, there will be paint on pad mating with pad clip. I see no reason to apply grease in that situation. But if its handy i use it just for piece of mind.


FWIW i cant remember doing a brake job on an oem set of pads with any visible grease left on the mating surfaces.. so it all must wash off anyways.

So my vote is to use a small amount of supplied grease..just for the initial hope of no noise..because i think it washes out over time anyways.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Out of the last 10 brake jobs i have done i have had to file 5 or so sets of pad ears to slide nicely in the pad clip.

By filing i create a steel pad on pad clip, so in those situations i like to use copper grease.

If not filing, there will be paint on pad mating with pad clip. I see no reason to apply grease in that situation. But if its handy i use it just for piece of mind.


FWIW i cant remember doing a brake job on an oem set of pads with any visible grease left on the mating surfaces.. so it all must wash off anyways.

So my vote is to use a small amount of supplied grease..just for the initial hope of no noise..because i think it washes out over time anyways.


Makes sense.

Which brand of pads do you use? I cannot remember the last time I had to file pads.

 

[JeffKeryk]

And I always do a quick clean up to the bracket with a file. Regardless of what they look like.
As Michael said, rust is not a problem in the sunny Bay Area, but the extra minutes makes pad movement just right.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Copper would aid heat transfer... never a bad thing getting heat out of the pad itself?

 

[Timmastertech]

I prefer silicone grease but all metal to metal contact surfaces and sliding surfaces should be lubricated. We use AC Delco silicone brake grease on both sides of the abutment clips and where the shims contact the pads and caliper as well as on the slide pins.

 

[nthach]

Originally Posted by JeffKeryk

As Michael said, rust is not a problem in the sunny Bay Area, but the extra minutes makes pad movement just right.

Yea, but go to Tahoe in the winter just once and it's a different story. On a friend's Forester, I didn't cover the clips in grease but a small dab of Permatex's older formula silicone grease should keep things moving.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk

As Michael said, rust is not a problem in the sunny Bay Area, but the extra minutes makes pad movement just right.

Yea, but go to Tahoe in the winter just once and it's a different story. On a friend's Forester, I didn't cover the clips in grease but a small dab of Permatex's older formula silicone grease should keep things moving.

Yep. And I have to believe the dirt magnet issue is minimized if you just use a q-tip to apply a light application of silicone grease. And wipe off any excess.
No binding is good binding.

 

[Donald]

I bought a supply of kids paintbrushes they might use for watercolors. I use them for grease, paint and glue. Use and toss. They were probably 10 cents each.

 

[stanlee]

Serves absolutely no purpose BEHIND the clips. Why would you even lube the side of the clip that would potentially facilitate the side you want stationary to slide out of place? It should be clean and dry so the clip fits probably and lube the portion that the pads contact only.