Where do you get your torque specs from for lugs?
Is it by the wheel or by the vehicle?
Is it by the wheel or by the vehicle?
Stupid lug question
- Thread starter Riptide
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You can probably look the owner's manual of the car for the torques.
So it's determined by the car's specs and not by the wheel manufacturer. Reason I'm asking is I have aftermarket wheels on.
http://www.enkei.com/RacingSeriesSpecs/RPF1.html
I can't find any torque specs in their documentation. Hence the query.
The wheels are aluminum alloy I believe.
http://www.enkei.com/RacingSeriesSpecs/RPF1.html
I can't find any torque specs in their documentation. Hence the query.
The wheels are aluminum alloy I believe.
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Email Enkei and ask. Let us know what they say.
Enkei said to go by the vehicle specs. So I guess that's 100ft. lbs on my car (06 mustang gt).
I used my torque wrench, set the lugs to 100 ft lbs per my manual, and after a 35 mile drive some of the lugs on the front wheels needed to be re-torqued. A few didn't budge, a few moved just barely, and a couple needed almost 1/8th of a turn before the wrench clicked for me.
Is this abnormal?
Is this abnormal?
Originally Posted By: Riptide
I used my torque wrench, set the lugs to 100 ft lbs per my manual, and after a 35 mile drive some of the lugs on the front wheels needed to be re-torqued. A few didn't budge, a few moved just barely, and a couple needed almost 1/8th of a turn before the wrench clicked for me.
Is this abnormal?
No. Many tire shops recommend re-torquing lug nuts on aluminum wheels after 35-50 miles.
I used my torque wrench, set the lugs to 100 ft lbs per my manual, and after a 35 mile drive some of the lugs on the front wheels needed to be re-torqued. A few didn't budge, a few moved just barely, and a couple needed almost 1/8th of a turn before the wrench clicked for me.
Is this abnormal?
No. Many tire shops recommend re-torquing lug nuts on aluminum wheels after 35-50 miles.
Originally Posted By: Riptide
I used my torque wrench, set the lugs to 100 ft lbs per my manual, and after a 35 mile drive some of the lugs on the front wheels needed to be re-torqued. A few didn't budge, a few moved just barely, and a couple needed almost 1/8th of a turn before the wrench clicked for me.
Is this abnormal?
Have you checked the calibration of the the wrench?
I used my torque wrench, set the lugs to 100 ft lbs per my manual, and after a 35 mile drive some of the lugs on the front wheels needed to be re-torqued. A few didn't budge, a few moved just barely, and a couple needed almost 1/8th of a turn before the wrench clicked for me.
Is this abnormal?
Have you checked the calibration of the the wrench?
Nope. It's pretty new and hasn't seen any abuse so I'm inclined to trust it. It's a craftsman which I know is kind of so-so quality wise these days. But still.. I'm not worried it's off by any more than the typical variance.
I'll drive the car another 50-100 miles and recheck it again. If the wrench and the variance is the issue the lugs should eventually get to a point where they won't turn any more. Maybe slightly overtightened but they shouldn't come off.
I've done some reading and it appears that aluminum alloy wheels with steel lugs have a reputation for being fussy about this. Some shops even force people to sign a waiver that they must return in 50 miles to have the lugs retorqued again after initial fastening.
I'll drive the car another 50-100 miles and recheck it again. If the wrench and the variance is the issue the lugs should eventually get to a point where they won't turn any more. Maybe slightly overtightened but they shouldn't come off.
I've done some reading and it appears that aluminum alloy wheels with steel lugs have a reputation for being fussy about this. Some shops even force people to sign a waiver that they must return in 50 miles to have the lugs retorqued again after initial fastening.
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I don't know if this is a clicker type torque wrench or not but if it is make sure you return the setting to Zero after use. Other wise the accuracy with be off.
It is a click type and I haven't ever returned it back to zero. Haven't ever heard that before I've just been leaving it at the last used setting.
I'm a little paranoid that the lugs aren't seating right and that is why this is happening. However if that were happening you would think the balance would tend to be off yet the car tracks fine and I don't get vibrations all the way up to 100mph.
I'll just keep an eye on it for a while and if I keep having to refasten the lugs I'll eventually pull a wheel off and inspect the lug wells for damage.
I'm a little paranoid that the lugs aren't seating right and that is why this is happening. However if that were happening you would think the balance would tend to be off yet the car tracks fine and I don't get vibrations all the way up to 100mph.
I'll just keep an eye on it for a while and if I keep having to refasten the lugs I'll eventually pull a wheel off and inspect the lug wells for damage.
I have been running aluminum wheels on steel lugs since 1992. I put a dab of antiseize on them and tighten to 80 foot pounds with an old beam type wrench. Never had one come loose, twist off, or freeze.
Its normal.
the wheel will seat against the hub slightly more from the vibration. I dont think its actually the lugnuts backing off.
I've never had any get loose enough to turn by hand.. but ive had some that needed retorqued..
I generally check them after 20-30miles then again after 200mi or so.
the wheel will seat against the hub slightly more from the vibration. I dont think its actually the lugnuts backing off.
I've never had any get loose enough to turn by hand.. but ive had some that needed retorqued..
I generally check them after 20-30miles then again after 200mi or so.
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