Stuck O2 sensor
- Thread starter Lubener
- Start date
Freeze off. I found out about this stuff when I worked for a guy building race cars. Advance Auto Parts has it. It bubbles and wicks its way into threads. My cousins 350z had stuck bolts until I sprayed it with Freeze Off.
Spray on whatever break free you have then get it hot by running the engine. Make sure you use a good socket like a Kent-Moore brand or other USA made one. 1/2" drive preferrably. I might even buzz it lightly both directions with an impact tool to loosen the corrosion.
Yes and soaked several time with PB Blaster.
I've had to resort to this item a couple times:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KHWHS4G?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
It's a larger version of those special sockets you use to remove rounded-off lugnuts. Be aware the oxygen sensor is too tall to fit inside the socket, so you have to break off the top end of it (it's easy) to make it fit. You might also have to use a tap to restore the threads in the manifold if they got boogered up for some reason.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KHWHS4G?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
It's a larger version of those special sockets you use to remove rounded-off lugnuts. Be aware the oxygen sensor is too tall to fit inside the socket, so you have to break off the top end of it (it's easy) to make it fit. You might also have to use a tap to restore the threads in the manifold if they got boogered up for some reason.
Cut the wire off, then use one of those new fangled inductive heaters so as to heat up the works, then put a box end wrench on it and give that a good whack with a hammer? Alternating heat and quenching with a penetrating fluid like PB Blaster might do the trick.
I keep a 3lb (maybe 4lb) dead blow hammer around for persuading bolts. A good rap on a wrench often does the trick when I can't use a breaker bar.
I keep a 3lb (maybe 4lb) dead blow hammer around for persuading bolts. A good rap on a wrench often does the trick when I can't use a breaker bar.
Do you have a breaker bar, and if you do will it fit for this application?
This is the key. Break off the entire top part with channel locks, vice grips, etc. and use a normal 6-point socket & breaker to remove the threaded end. Heating the stub with MAPP gas (not butane) until cherry red will make it easier.
Heat the area chery red with acetylene torch. Use good leverage to then break it free.
Other then that, a good exhaust shop will get that sucker off in 10 min or so and send you down the road. Shouldn't cost no more then $50-75 bucks.
Be willing to break it - and then put a good quality impact socket on it.
Heat is your friend. So is an impact.
If you need to preserve it, then pony up and get a good socket for it. My shop neighbor has borrowed this a couple of times. 22mm flare nut crowfoot wrench. Strong enough not to flex under load, and with great grip, it removes stuck O2 sensors where you can’t get an impact on it.
https://www.tekton.com/3-8-inch-drive-x-22-mm-deep-6-point-flare-nut-crowfoot-wrench-wcf16222
Heat is your friend. So is an impact.
If you need to preserve it, then pony up and get a good socket for it. My shop neighbor has borrowed this a couple of times. 22mm flare nut crowfoot wrench. Strong enough not to flex under load, and with great grip, it removes stuck O2 sensors where you can’t get an impact on it.
https://www.tekton.com/3-8-inch-drive-x-22-mm-deep-6-point-flare-nut-crowfoot-wrench-wcf16222
I had that situation years ago on my 98 Chevy K3500. I could not get it out for anything, even with heat and a breaker bar. I ended up taking it to an exhaust shop. They ruined the threads of the bung and had to weld in a new one.
Every time I have had a stuck O2 sensor I have hit it with the air hammer. Works all the time.
Don
Don
Get the bung cherry hot & pour water on it.
The O2 is stainless & the bung may be a lower grade of stainless if it's in the exhaust not the manifold....Could be stuck for good if it's stainless on stainless.
Can you just punch a new hole adjacent to the original & weld in a new bung? IIRC Ford liked to run AIR tubes down to the converter making pipe removal a bear
The O2 is stainless & the bung may be a lower grade of stainless if it's in the exhaust not the manifold....Could be stuck for good if it's stainless on stainless.
Can you just punch a new hole adjacent to the original & weld in a new bung? IIRC Ford liked to run AIR tubes down to the converter making pipe removal a bear
Can you fit a 22MM (or whatever this O2 sensor uses) wrench on it and hit the wrench with a hammer?
Well by this time you know it has to come out even if a new manifold is in order. Soak it with pb for a few days, cut the wires off and put a 1/2 in deep six point on it with a breaker bar- maybe the manifold has to come off....I liberally coat new with anti sieze and haven't had an issue.
