Check the rubber hose leading to that caliper. If its delaminating inside this may block the release of pressure and cause that side to drag.
Stuck caliper or pin. Mechanic didn't seem to think it was a big deal.
- Thread starter Jonas
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Oil change? incorrect or too much oil? Someone contaminated your pre cat1 o2 sensor?
Change air filter recently - I find some premium filters don't flow much air (!)
Check oi level. should not be more than a 1/4-1/2 qt over
Check Tail pipe: is is black or grey black or clean?
Roll at about 3 mph on level ground and put it neutral - does it continue to roll for 20 feet? Is the car easy to push by hand?
You are obsessing a bit but using some good troubleshooting methods.
good luck report back.
Am I obsessing? Haha. The only thing I can think of is that I'm running 5W-30 right now instead of the usual 5W-20. This is because I was having fuel trim issues and my oil smelled like gas. That has since been resolved since I installed an oem mass air flow sensor. Do my rotor temperatures the same normal? They do to me.
I I should add that I ran thicker oil one time last year in a futile attempt to curb oil consumption and I noticed considerable drag then too.
Many the newer Dexos 30 grades are pretty thick out of the box. I ran a 5W30 in my Mustang Bullitt back in 2001 and it felt like I was pulling a trailer - NO exxageration. You have VVTi on that Yamaha/Toyota engine I would imagine so the extra oil pressure is retarding them cam sooner wich will kill torque along with the higher HTHS and KV100 adding windage losses.
IR guns are called to a flat black so different material colour and finish require a correction factor. Or they used too when I used a gun in injection molding. They don't sound out of line.
Does it roll? Can you easily spin the tire/wheel when jacked up?
I think it's rolling fine. It has always "engine braked" with ac on I suppose to keep the rpm up? Perhaps the combination of AC and thicker oil (magnatec 5w30) is causing it to be sluggish.
A this point, I woudl take apart the brakes, and see if the slider pins come out easily, move easily, and
see what kind of shape they are in. I woudl not trust anybody claiming that they did the service, esp. in the light of ther pads still seem to be dragging. They may have pulled out the pins, wiped them down and re-greased them, but not clean out the carrier bracket pocket for them. So the pin movement may still be impeded.
I would want to see those pins myself, and check if they now move freely in their pocket on the caliper carrier bracket. If the pins are in bad shape, e.g.: they are rusty, I would replace them. I would also use a high quality, high temp brake lube, such as a 3m copper or ceramic enhanced formula. The silicone grease that often comes with brake pads is just not good enough for me. Look at the temperature rating. (The higher the better).
That is the first thing to check. Next thing is, check the stainless steel hardware in the raceways
in the bracket, where the pad ears fit. These are the 2 things that can impede pad movement ( the pins and the raceways).
The raceways need to be cleaned with a wirebrush (or the hardware shims replaceed) and re-greased with the same high-temp brake lube you use for the pins.
Given that these 2 things are done properly, the pads should not be dragging on the rotors.
Unfortunately the clean-up of the pins and raceways is a fertile area for doing a half-assed job.
This is why I insist on doing this myself. If I bother to check the job someone else (claims) they did,
I may as well just do it myself, 3/4 of the work is taking the brakes apart.
Extracting the pins, cleaning and re-lubing them is not exactly rocket science.
Finally, I recommend using ceramic pads which do not dust as much as the OEM pads.
see what kind of shape they are in. I woudl not trust anybody claiming that they did the service, esp. in the light of ther pads still seem to be dragging. They may have pulled out the pins, wiped them down and re-greased them, but not clean out the carrier bracket pocket for them. So the pin movement may still be impeded.
I would want to see those pins myself, and check if they now move freely in their pocket on the caliper carrier bracket. If the pins are in bad shape, e.g.: they are rusty, I would replace them. I would also use a high quality, high temp brake lube, such as a 3m copper or ceramic enhanced formula. The silicone grease that often comes with brake pads is just not good enough for me. Look at the temperature rating. (The higher the better).
That is the first thing to check. Next thing is, check the stainless steel hardware in the raceways
in the bracket, where the pad ears fit. These are the 2 things that can impede pad movement ( the pins and the raceways).
The raceways need to be cleaned with a wirebrush (or the hardware shims replaceed) and re-greased with the same high-temp brake lube you use for the pins.
Given that these 2 things are done properly, the pads should not be dragging on the rotors.
Unfortunately the clean-up of the pins and raceways is a fertile area for doing a half-assed job.
This is why I insist on doing this myself. If I bother to check the job someone else (claims) they did,
I may as well just do it myself, 3/4 of the work is taking the brakes apart.
Extracting the pins, cleaning and re-lubing them is not exactly rocket science.
Finally, I recommend using ceramic pads which do not dust as much as the OEM pads.
If you are braking, the rotors will heat up, that is normal. On most cars, most of the braking work is
done by the front brakes. There are exceptions, the braking force can be biased either way.
In any case it is ok for the front to be hotter than the rear. If you did some braking, they brakes will be hot, so that does not tell you anything about whether your pads are dragging.
done by the front brakes. There are exceptions, the braking force can be biased either way.
In any case it is ok for the front to be hotter than the rear. If you did some braking, they brakes will be hot, so that does not tell you anything about whether your pads are dragging.
I see no need to replace the calipers . The sliding pins go into the caliper carrier bracket,
But in this case it seems the pins did come out of the bracket. So the pocket these
sitting in can be cleaned out. The pins may need to be replaced, and the rubber boots for the
pins may need to be replaced if cracked.
One reason to replace the calipers is if the rubber boots for the piston are cracked. or the piston movement
is impeded. For example, you are unable to push the piston back into the caliper.
But in this case it seems the pins did come out of the bracket. So the pocket these
sitting in can be cleaned out. The pins may need to be replaced, and the rubber boots for the
pins may need to be replaced if cracked.
One reason to replace the calipers is if the rubber boots for the piston are cracked. or the piston movement
is impeded. For example, you are unable to push the piston back into the caliper.
Had a mechanic tell me the same thing once said you have a caliper sticking but you should be good the rear will just wear a little quicker. I got home after about a 5 mile trip and my wheels were so hot you couldn’t touch them and smoking. Glazed the rotors to the point they needed replaced. I done em myself
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