I have a stroker engine professionally built by HESCO. The slight preponderance of info on this sight points to 5w40 synthetic for the regular 4.0L. What's your advice on this stroked straight six?
Stroked Jeep I6 4.0L (to 4.7L)
- Thread starter Dark Horse
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I'm guessing they use the old 258/4.2 litre crank and rods in a 4.0 litre block ??
Any decent XW-40 should do the trick, and personally, I'd be using an HDEO, which generally means Delvac 1 with me, although Delo 400, etc would work very well.
Any decent XW-40 should do the trick, and personally, I'd be using an HDEO, which generally means Delvac 1 with me, although Delo 400, etc would work very well.
Isnt there quench area issues with hybrids like that? It sounds like this guy has an aftermarket stroker kit.
Dark Horse I notice you are in Iraq! What are the driving conditions this vehicle will be subjected to? Can you tell us a little more about your setup?
Dark Horse I notice you are in Iraq! What are the driving conditions this vehicle will be subjected to? Can you tell us a little more about your setup?
I can't believe I misspelled site.
I've been working in Iraq since December 2003. I go home for good Jan 1. Army Contractor.
And for the sake of argument let's say the worst conditions known to man. I'm planning on running a Donaldson Topspin prefilter, paper element, bypass oil filter, and pre oiler.
This will be used in desert, tundra, mud, pretty much everywhere.
Mobil 1 Delvac has a 10w30 as well - should I go with that or their 15w40?
And I apologize for not knowing the science behind it, but how will a diesel oil end up running well with a 4.0L I6 design? Not doubting, just curious.
Those diesel oils are also fleet oils, and are ok to use in gas engines. Some say the high level of additives could hurt your cat, but I doubt you will be running one (?). I run delo 15w40 in my completely stock chevy van. They are thick, stable, keep engines clean, and have strong add packs. Best of all they are cheap. I have never heard of M1 Delvac 10w30, where can you get it?
Found it here on the Mobil 1 website: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSE2CVLMOMobil_Delvac_1300_Super.asp#ApplicationsTitle
What do you think? If the 10w30 exists which would you recommend?
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The Delvac 10w-30 exists ..but only (allegedly) in bulk ..or maybe 55 gallon drums. Other refiners have 10w-30 HDEO available in quarts or 5 gallon pails.
..but the 4.0/4.2 appears to prefer a 40 weight in service applications where oil temp is allowed to peak/stabalize. That is, if you're a short trip type ..then a 30 weight appears to do well in our little community here. This isn't a solid given ..just the majority of AMC/DC inline 6 engines show lower Fe numbers in the UOA section that infers that higher (effective) viscosity has a definite impact.
In any situation other then a 4 season climate in a short trip service (10 miles +/-) I'd have a 40 weight in there. If the climate had a severe cold component to it ..but had a fairly long trip length ..I'd use a synth 40 weight.
Did you opt for the aluminum head from Hesco? That would be an interesting addition to a stroker.
..but the 4.0/4.2 appears to prefer a 40 weight in service applications where oil temp is allowed to peak/stabalize. That is, if you're a short trip type ..then a 30 weight appears to do well in our little community here. This isn't a solid given ..just the majority of AMC/DC inline 6 engines show lower Fe numbers in the UOA section that infers that higher (effective) viscosity has a definite impact.
In any situation other then a 4 season climate in a short trip service (10 miles +/-) I'd have a 40 weight in there. If the climate had a severe cold component to it ..but had a fairly long trip length ..I'd use a synth 40 weight.
Did you opt for the aluminum head from Hesco? That would be an interesting addition to a stroker.
I like very long road trips and frequent offroading - probably leaning toward the 40 weight now.
I chose the regular ported head - I was looking to build a 500,000 mile engine - longevity and toughness in any environment, no matter how harsh was principal, power was secondary. Still, she dynos at 269 hp and 335 ft-lb. All the torque is still low end, just where I need it.
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With your sevice there is no doubt in my mind that a 40 weight would be recommended. The only question you have to answer is the service length and whether to use a dino or synth based on the conditions. In a dusty enviroment like you're in ..surely a synth would be a waste with the freuent changes that you would probably need. In your colder climates it would probably prove beneficial.
Do you run the standard high flow coolant bypass setup on your engine (continuously through the heater core)? This is what allows the contemporary 4.0 to warm in a very short period of time ..faster than some aluminum head engines that I own and have owned. I'm just curious since Hesco is pretty much down with the inline AMC/DC 6 ..more than any one source that I've seen. They offer highflow water pumps and whatnot ...and they manufactured the entire inventory of MOPAR roller rockers for the 4.0/2.5.
Do you run the standard high flow coolant bypass setup on your engine (continuously through the heater core)? This is what allows the contemporary 4.0 to warm in a very short period of time ..faster than some aluminum head engines that I own and have owned. I'm just curious since Hesco is pretty much down with the inline AMC/DC 6 ..more than any one source that I've seen. They offer highflow water pumps and whatnot ...and they manufactured the entire inventory of MOPAR roller rockers for the 4.0/2.5.
Hesco makes some real nice 6cyl parts. That aluminum head is a work of art. Too bad most 4.0s will never be able to take full advantage of the flow it offers. I'd run the aluminum head for the weight savings alone....the factory iron head is a boat anchor.
I would run delo or delvac 15w40 and change it frequently. With a preoiler you dont have to worry about startup flow too much, and under those conditions you dont want to go for extended drains, even with a bypass, IMO.
I'm not sure what you're asking about the high flow cooolant bypass. The engine will be setup the same as stock unless I learn a better way (fill me in).
And is the Mobil 1 Delvac 15w40 a synthetic? Where can I buy it?
Also, running an aluminum 2 row radiator - standard thermostat is 195 degree, should I run a 180 degree? I have an oil cooler.
My rig is an expedition rig - spares, tools, armor, cage, bumpers, winch. 30 pounds won't begin to make a difference. Especially with greater longevity from their regular ported head and for me it's not worth the weight savings or minor performance gains to go with their very impressive aluminum head. And the extra 2 grand.
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I'm not sure what you're asking about the high flow cooolant bypass. The engine will be setup the same as stock unless I learn a better way (fill me in).
The 4.0 allegedly has a high flow coolant bypass. That is, a good bit of your coolant flow isn't seeing the rad. They attempt to compensate with a decent size rad for the displacement. This is what allows a cast iron engine to achieve low emissions status in a very short time. My 4.0 warms up in an incredibly short distance ..even in winter...even compared to my 3.0 aluminum head Mitsubishi. Choking, or restricting, this continuous high flow bypass flow is one technique for increasing the cooling capacity for the engine. This can also be accomplished by using a high flow water pump ..making the % of flow in continuous bypass a non-factor.
And is the Mobil 1 Delvac 15w40 a synthetic? Where can I buy it? Delvac 1 is a 5w-40. It has the same spec's as M1 Truck & SUV and is available world wide under one or the other label (or both). The 15w-40 is a dino, Delvac 1300. WallMart usually has both.
Also, running an aluminum 2 row radiator - standard thermostat is 195 degree, should I run a 180 degree? I have an oil cooler.Also, running an aluminum 2 row radiator - standard thermostat is 195 degree, should I run a 180 degree? I have an oil cooler.
The 195 is your best bet. Sounds like your rad is up to the task. What type of oil cooler do you use? A mopar heat exchanger (Modine®) ..or a rad type?
The 4.0 allegedly has a high flow coolant bypass. That is, a good bit of your coolant flow isn't seeing the rad. They attempt to compensate with a decent size rad for the displacement. This is what allows a cast iron engine to achieve low emissions status in a very short time. My 4.0 warms up in an incredibly short distance ..even in winter...even compared to my 3.0 aluminum head Mitsubishi. Choking, or restricting, this continuous high flow bypass flow is one technique for increasing the cooling capacity for the engine. This can also be accomplished by using a high flow water pump ..making the % of flow in continuous bypass a non-factor.
And is the Mobil 1 Delvac 15w40 a synthetic? Where can I buy it? Delvac 1 is a 5w-40. It has the same spec's as M1 Truck & SUV and is available world wide under one or the other label (or both). The 15w-40 is a dino, Delvac 1300. WallMart usually has both.
Also, running an aluminum 2 row radiator - standard thermostat is 195 degree, should I run a 180 degree? I have an oil cooler.Also, running an aluminum 2 row radiator - standard thermostat is 195 degree, should I run a 180 degree? I have an oil cooler.
The 195 is your best bet. Sounds like your rad is up to the task. What type of oil cooler do you use? A mopar heat exchanger (Modine®) ..or a rad type?
1. Yes, they are installing a high flow water pump. Will this make it take much longer to heat up to temp?
2. Which oil do you recommend - the 5w40 or the 15w40? I'll have oil bypass, haven't decided which system yet, and I'll also have a preoiler. I'll also be running an impellor driven precleaner.
3. I haven't decided yet on which oil cooler - leaning toward permacool unless you know of a better one you'd recommend. The radiator does not also have an oil cooler installed - there is one radiator that has that feature, but would make refitting the fan shroud nearly impossible.
Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.
My two leading options for a prefilter are:
http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/support/dataLibrary/000207.pdf
http://www.centriprecleaner.com/
I am not set on an air/oil cooler. I apologize on not yet being up to speed, but this is what I am leaning toward right now: the TP bypass filter (and I assume I have to tap into the oil pan for that), I haven't yet figured out how I'll do the preoiler, and then I wanted something to keep the engine oil cool. Are you saying that the MOPAR heat exchanger will do that function? Your statement "between the coolant rad, the exchanger, and the air/oil rad ..." got me confused. By coolant rad you mean the regular engine coolant radiator and fan assembly? It sounds as if you're saying I need the heat exchanger and the air/oil rad at the same time.
Routing all this oil crap may end up being a *****, but I need to decide on the best equipment first, and then worry about how to mount and route it all. Did I mention I need to finish the entire engine swap and oil extras routing in 3 days? It should be fun.
thanks for letting me pick your mind, but I'm not following on what exactly the heat exchanger does, nor how it works. Eager to learn though.
http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/support/dataLibrary/000207.pdf
http://www.centriprecleaner.com/
I am not set on an air/oil cooler. I apologize on not yet being up to speed, but this is what I am leaning toward right now: the TP bypass filter (and I assume I have to tap into the oil pan for that), I haven't yet figured out how I'll do the preoiler, and then I wanted something to keep the engine oil cool. Are you saying that the MOPAR heat exchanger will do that function? Your statement "between the coolant rad, the exchanger, and the air/oil rad ..." got me confused. By coolant rad you mean the regular engine coolant radiator and fan assembly? It sounds as if you're saying I need the heat exchanger and the air/oil rad at the same time.
Routing all this oil crap may end up being a *****, but I need to decide on the best equipment first, and then worry about how to mount and route it all. Did I mention I need to finish the entire engine swap and oil extras routing in 3 days? It should be fun.
thanks for letting me pick your mind, but I'm not following on what exactly the heat exchanger does, nor how it works. Eager to learn though.
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