Say Rotella T-1 SAE 30 ($18 gallon) vs Rotella T4 15W40 ($16 a gallon) to keep it brand comparable.
In something like a pressure washer or generator in hot weather.
In something like a pressure washer or generator in hot weather.
Why would an SAE 30 contain "lots of VIIs in it"? It can be made with straight base stock and no VII. Rotella T1 SAE 30 has a VI of 101 (PDS). It likely contains base oil, DI package and maybe additional PPD.OTOH, the 30 is a straight weight with a lot of VIIs in it. I find in my OPE a straight weight holds up better, even if not as thick, because it is not as adulterated. If you need to run it in sub-freezing temps, then the multigrade makes sense. OTOH, what is the difference between T1 and T4? I’m not familiar with T1 and this sounds like it might not be an apples-to-apples comparison.
Say what?OTOH, the 30 is a straight weight with a lot of VIIs in it. I find in my OPE a straight weight holds up better, even if not as thick, because it is not as adulterated. If you need to run it in sub-freezing temps, then the multigrade makes sense. OTOH, what is the difference between T1 and T4? I’m not familiar with T1 and this sounds like it might not be an apples-to-apples comparison.
This is my experience as well… as long as they’re kept full of some sort of oil it’s fine… I use whatever I have on hand, be that 5w-30 or 15w-40They aren't fussy. Long as there's oil and it's not the factory fill from 1984 it'll be fine.
(Did small engine repair in a shop for several years)
Why would an SAE 30 contain "lots of VIIs in it"? It can be made with straight base stock and no VII. Rotella T1 SAE 30 has a VI of 101 (PDS). It likely contains base oil, DI package and maybe additional PPD.
Either will be fine. What is important is that the oil is changed on a regular basis.Say Rotella T-1 SAE 30 ($18 gallon) vs Rotella T4 15W40 ($16 a gallon) to keep it brand comparable.
In something like a pressure washer or generator in hot weather.
And per SAE J300 I don't think a properly labeled monograde can contain any VM, not just a lot less. The reverse is true that you can have a multi-viscosity oil with no VM but not the other way around.That was supposed to say “LOTS LESS” and the dang auto-correct took it out/clipped it and I missed it. My bad. I mainly use an iPad and the native auto-correct changes a lot of words. I have to proofread like it’s Middle School; overall does NOT reduce errors and creates more issues.
The HTHS requirements for a 5w-40 differ from a 15w-40. I would be less inclined to run a 5w-40 in Houston.FWIW, I'd use 15w40 or 5w40 (for easier starting) in any OPE over 30. Just easier to find IMO.
Just my $0.02
In this case it does matter. See SAE J300. HTHS of 2.9 vs 3.7 matters a lot in high temperature / high load applications. Just ask CUJET about all the rod failures on generators running 5w-30 after hurricanes in Florida. 5w-40 is just a 5w-30 on mild steroids; it's not anything close to a straight SAE30.when a difference makes no difference, use whatever oil you have that is on the shelf in the garage.
I run 20w50 in my small gas stuff, but I do run it into moderately cold weatherIn this case it does matter. See SAE J300. HTHS of 2.9 vs 3.7 matters a lot in high temperature / high load applications. Just ask CUJET about all the rod failures on generators running 5w-30 after hurricanes in Florida. 5w-40 is just a 5w-30 on mild steroids; it's not anything close to a straight SAE30.