Starting up a engine that’s been sitting for a few years?

N

nthach

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Jan 2, 2004
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I’m working on getting a Blazer with the 350 TBI up and running so a friend can take it to a shop for a new transmission. It’s been sitting since 2014. My plan is to change all the critical fluids and I replaced the cap/rotor/wires as well as a fresh set of NGK platinum plugs.

I realized I should have sprayed some WD-40/Penetro 90/Break-Free into the cylinders while the plugs were out. Too late now. When the new radiator is in, I plan to disable fuel/spark and crank the engine over to build oil pressure - and then spray fogging oil during the dry crank. Bad idea? Or just crank the engine until oil pressure builds and hope for the best?

my MO for engines that have been sitting for a while is a spray of penetrating oil onto the cylinders and hand-turning the engine with a breaker bar. I forgot to do that.
 
Check fluid levels, if nothing is outright contaminated and it turns over smooth with a breaker bar, start it, change fluids later.

I've taken a part a lot of engines that have sat for years, even decades. Main bearings still have oil in them, connecting rod bearings still have oil in them, and the cam bearings still have oil in them. Spinning it over long enough for oil pressure will not get oil to the valvetrain, flat tappet hyd lifters, cylinder bores, etc, nearly as fast as just starting the dang thing because some of the most crucial components like the flat tappet lifters and cylinders require oil sling from the crankshaft, which you dont get from just spinning it over with the starter.
 
Tman220 said:
Check fluid levels, if nothing is outright contaminated and it turns over smooth with a breaker bar, start it, change fluids later.

I've taken a part a lot of engines that have sat for years, even decades. Main bearings still have oil in them, connecting rod bearings still have oil in them, and the cam bearings still have oil in them. Spinning it over long enough for oil pressure will not get oil to the valvetrain, flat tappet hyd lifters, cylinder bores, etc, nearly as fast as just starting the dang thing because some of the most crucial components like the flat tappet lifters and cylinders require oil sling from the crankshaft, which you dont get from just spinning it over with the starter.
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The radiator is shot, coolant is rusted but I saw the oil coming out of the cooler lines and it looks like used oil can look.

that’s good to hear oil can still stick onto the bottom end. My concern was with the top end - rings. Another good thing was that the fuel tank was empty - little gas poured out of the fuel lines when I changed the filter. CA gas goes bad quickly. But that’s a concern if the pump doesn’t turn over. I’ll find out later.
 
For what it's worth, my roommate's Evo sat in the garage for 3-4 years before we cranked it on. Nothing more but an oil change - same 3-4 year old gas lol
 
emmett442 said:
Just start it up.

That's not terribly long. As long as the intake plumbing, PCV system were all intact and assembled, there's nothing to worry about except for maybe some less than stellar fuel.
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Yep, everything was still installed - I took off the air cleaner. TBI unit seems clean.
 
If it is a good car with overhead cams, I always pull the valve cover/s and pour oil all over the cam/s. Kill the coils and fuel pump and crank it for 6 seconds.
 
Tman220 said:
Check fluid levels, if nothing is outright contaminated and it turns over smooth with a breaker bar, start it, change fluids later.

I've taken a part a lot of engines that have sat for years, even decades. Main bearings still have oil in them, connecting rod bearings still have oil in them, and the cam bearings still have oil in them. Spinning it over long enough for oil pressure will not get oil to the valvetrain, flat tappet hyd lifters, cylinder bores, etc, nearly as fast as just starting the dang thing because some of the most crucial components like the flat tappet lifters and cylinders require oil sling from the crankshaft, which you dont get from just spinning it over with the starter.
Click to expand...

Agree. My 300cd sat for about 7 years. I had thought about shutting off the injection pump and cranking it, but it turned smoothly, and I figured that it wasn’t going to help a lot.

It cranked and built pressure just fine.

The one thing thst did concern me was the oil filter. If OP was going to do anything I’d say pre fill a replacement filter and spin it on. Cheap one... don’t care... just want to ensure that any faulty media or adhesive is not a consideration.

I might do it differently if it was 20 years. But two? Not so much. Crank and let it get to idle.
 
JHZR2 said:
Agree. My 300cd sat for about 7 years. I had thought about shutting off the injection pump and cranking it, but it turned smoothly, and I figured that it wasn’t going to help a lot.

It cranked and built pressure just fine.

The one thing thst did concern me was the oil filter. If OP was going to do anything I’d say pre fill a replacement filter and spin it on. Cheap one... don’t care... just want to ensure that any faulty media or adhesive is not a consideration.

I might do it differently if it was 20 years. But two? Not so much. Crank and let it get to idle.
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There’s a Service or Defense 3860 on it and unknown oil. I have 5 quarts of GTX HM and a ACD E-core on hand.
 
The reason not to change the oil and filter prior to start up is that the filter and oil galleries may still be full of oil. A new filter is dry and can easily result in a longer period of time before oil pressure rises. Even if you fill it manually.

A simple method to "prime" an engine is to use a oil transfer hand pump, on top of a quart of oil, and hooked via a fitting to the oil pressure gauge location. These plastic pumps will easily make 30-50 PSI of pressure and will prime an engine in a minute.

These pumps can be found at just about any auto parts store, are often used for filling differentials and transmissions. An important thing is to use a zip-tie to secure the clear hose to the pump and the fitting on the block.

71a%2BAXTnceL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
clinebarger said:
I'd be surprised if the Throttle Body didn't need a rebuild (Pressure Regulator Spring & Diaphragm, New Injectors, Gaskets & Seals) Along with the IAC Motor being froze.
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🤞

Let’s see if this sucker fires up, especially with this wretched CA E15 gas.
 
I started a '94 Escort for the first time last summer that had been sitting for 2 or 3 years. I just put a battery in it hit the starter and it was purring like a kitten a few seconds later. Your biggest issue may be a bad fuel pump. I've had electric fuel pumps go bad from sitting in old gas.
 
So the oil is fill, I didn’t change the oil. Installed the new radiator, filled up with water and Blue Devil rad cleaner(yes I know). Old California gas was in the tank.

the truck started up on the second try once the fuel lines were primed. I’m stoked it’s one step closer to driving away.
 
However, I think clinebarger’s post might be true. CEL is on, truck is running rich - white smoke that reeks of fuel. So I’m guessing injectors, IAC or other things. Might also be rank gas - I’ll pick up some fresh gas and dump a pint of Chemtool into the tank.

other than that, the truck runs fine except for a little stumble as it falls back to idle.
 
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