Starting problem: Battery, Starter, or Solenoid?

[mareakin]

The car, a 2007 Corolla CE, was purchased brand-new and driven off the lot on december of 2006. It now has 53,000 miles. The battery is the original OEM and according to the label, was made by Johnson Controls.

Today I had some trouble starting the car. The first time, it made a rapid clicking sound, it sounded electrical. I thought, "maybe it's the battery," so I turn the key towards 'ACC' and then turn on the fan at full power. It works fine, didn't feel weak at all. The dashboard lights were at full brightness, did not seem dim at all! I try to start the car again, it made the rapid clicking sound again for about 10 seconds, but eventually I hear the engine cranking but VERY SLOWLY, it sounded like it was struggling but finally the car starts!!!

I drive the car home with the intention to research the topic further.

Some hours later, I try to start the car again. This time, no rapid clicking but it would struggle to crank and it cranks very slowly, taking perhaps 15 seconds for the car to finally start but it does!

So, is it the battery?

Why it might NOT be the battery:

1. Car started just fine yesterday. Do batteries just fall off the cliff? Wouldn't deterioration be gradual rather than sudden?

2. After struggling to start the car, I turned on the fan and the radio and both worked fine--at full strength! The dashboard lights appear bright and vivid. Dim dashboard lights often indicate a depleted battery.

3. Battery is not that old.


So, is it possible for a battery to be able to power the fan and other accessories perfectly well but NOT be able to crank the engine? Or, is that a paradox?

 

[expat]

Dash lights, Radio and Fans do not put a high load in the electrical system. It could well be your Battery, but you may want to get it checked before buying a replacement.
Yes, batteries CAN die very quickly like that.

 

[Ursae_Majoris]

Rapid clicking sound was probably the starter solenoid.

It sounds like a problem I had with my Mirage a few years go.
I ended up changing the starter in January in 10 below in a parking lot. Started up fine after that.

 

[tomcat27]

it certainly sounds like the battery is weak. many stores will test it for free. altho with it approaching 4 years old, there is certainly no harm and actually a good preventative measure to replace it. It likely takes over 100 amps to start your car - a load which is not simulated by turning on lights, blower, etc. (maybe 20-30 amps)

 

[oilboy123]

I would say in order of most to least likely:

Battery

Starter

Alternator

 

[eljefino]

If this is like the Pontiac Vibe the factory battery is something around 350 CCA... garbage from the getgo. Just gets away with it because of the small engine and gear reduction starter.

Anything else you could buy in a store will be better.

 

[mareakin]

The battery is rated for 550 CCA and 110 reserve...

 

[eljefino]

Ahh, the vibes had delco batteries... a GM touch/curse.

550 isn't much either. Batteries do just die sometimes; my dad's motorcraft lasted eight years then poof.

 

[PeteTheFarmer]

Load test the battery or have someone do it. Advance Auto store in my area do it for nothing. At least, run a poor man's load test by turning on the headlights and seeing if they get real dim when someone else cranks the starter. I don't think battery capacity is the problem; earlier generation Corolla didn't require a lot of CCA but it wouldn't hurt to double check the specs.

 

[doitmyself]

Don't forget the first, easy thing to check: the battery terminal connections. Sometimes they develop a bit of undetected oxidation. Take them off, shine them up, and reattach.

Do the load test too.

 

[PandaBear]

Voltage when starting? If it is low then it is battery. You have to go way low for it to be not starting at all. It will still crank but slowly.

Clicking and only many many attempts and it cranks then start right away? Most likely the solenoid.

 

[mechtech2]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Don't forget the first, easy thing to check: the battery terminal connections. Sometimes they develop a bit of undetected oxidation. Take them off, shine them up, and reattach.

Do the load test too.


This is always good. If it does not fix it, it is VERY good maintenance. And remember that cables have TWO ends, and where they seat must by shiny too!
Is the battery loose? They puke early if they are not secured down . Low on water?
When the car is running, take voltage checks with a common multimeter. Should be about 14-14.5 no load at 2k.

 

[mareakin]

I replaced the battery with a Costco group 35 battery produced on 10/10..

the car now starts fine but unfotunately it now idles low (at around 400rpm when normal = 800rpm) and the car shakes and shudders...

any ideas??

thinking back, I may have reinstalled it by putting the negative terminal first THEN the positive, when i'm told it should be the reverse, could this have caused damage?

 

[rshaw125]

Costco is the way to go. You may have to drive the car some after disconnection of the battery. The computer has to re-learn a few things. 4 or so years out of a factory battery is not bad.

 

[oilboy123]

Yes reversing can damage things. If you saw arcing then that's not good. You might be lucky, but.........

 

[KrisZ]

My experiance on my older beaters was that rapid clicking was always caused by a weak battery. Starter problems usually had one click, then nothing.

OP's slow cranking confirms that there is a problem with the battery or a weak connection, the starter is probably fine.