Stalled at idle after battery disconnect - Kia computer idle relearn?

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Feb 19, 2009
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quick question, i stalled out a couple times in the kia such as when depressing clutch and slowing down initially... I was not having any issues before hand, but I really cleaned all connections again on battery, and all engine to body grounds.. Battery and all grounds were disconnected for 1+ hours.... Im just wondering if there is a computer relearn for idle after a battery disconnect? You know my story by now. :rolleyes: Last time i did not have an issue with idle but the battery was only quickly disconnected.
Notes:

Stalled a couple times when depressing clutch and slowing down on first 2 miles, It always started back up

Once i re connected battery, started and let car idle for a couple mins, then jumped in went on ride.

I only drove for about 3-4 miles, first mile it was stalling, by mile number 2, the rpms were low, but not stalling..

No check engine light.

So do i need to put a few more miles on it for a complete relearn? Im just worried i screwed something up, but how im not even sure..

After trip i idle in driveway, and rpms seemed almost normal. no hunting ect... so im thinking its fine, but just looking for confirmation everything is "ok" lol..:D

That's all. Thanks!. :oops:

Its
 
I'm thinking you may have inadvertently created a problem when cleaning the engine to body grounds. Why the need to mess with them?
 
I don't know anything specifically about Kia, but my friend's 2002 Tundra relearn was pronounced; Touching the truck and then having frequent stalling isn't a recipe for a good relationship lol. She called me two or 3 times. I would sit tight for a bit and do some driving before worrying.
 
Well i now have an check engine light now....... 😭I let it idle for a few mins in the driveway, it never stalled out or anything abnormal, but i jumped in and see the light. but it drove very nicely on the 2nd trip, with perfect rpms range.. Im really hoping this is just a false code, because there were zero codes before i disconnected battery.

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Some cars need to re-learn the idle after a battery disconnect. Probably something simple like that is all. If it were my car, I'd bring it up to date on any maintenance, give it a good wash and vacuum, then leave it alone and drive it. I think you might be creating problems that you didn't have before by messing with things that were already working properly.
 
Some cars need to re-learn the idle after a battery disconnect. Probably something simple like that is all. If it were my car, I'd bring it up to date on any maintenance, give it a good wash and vacuum, then leave it alone and drive it. I think you might be creating problems that you didn't have before by messing with things that were already working properly.
Yeah last thing im touching on this car... I thought this would classify as maintenance, but im just going to drive it more, and reassess the situation in a couple days.... This seems to be a very common "issue" on Hyundai's, and Kias. Google has a ton of hits on this issue, (P0106 after battery disconnect) and it appear as it goes away on its own after a couple days.
 
I found on my car when the DCT shifting gets flaky. I pull the battery for 10 mins and reconnect. I notice the relearn gets back to my style of driving in about 25 miles or so. I never noticed an issue with idle on my car. I guess I don't think idling it is going to relearn anything there.

Check for intake boot leaks, PVC/hose leaks, clean your throttle body and any vacuum ports to it. . Run some CRC intake/valve cleaner through the engine. I myself would do a Hail Mary and buy a new manifold pressure sensor.
 
Don't know what to do ATM. Should i just replace the MAP sensor? its under $50 for OEM one and i could change it out in 5 mins.... But how just by cleaning grounds and terminals, would cause the MAP to fail? I'm not even sure there is an "issue" yet, just having a back up plan.. Check engine light still on. Same code p0106, but i only put like 7 miles on it.. I also read online that I might have to take it to the dealer to have the adaptive learning value corrected and or reset, but don't know if there is any truth to this...

There were zero issues before, and i'm really mad at myself for screwing with this because i could not leave well enough alone.. This OCD is really making life hard for me, in all areas, its just not "fixing" things that are not broken on the car. ugh. :confused: Its only been 15 hours, but im ready to replace sensors and or take it to the dealer to have the values reset... i can not stand that check engine light.... Just hope I'm being impatient, and it will go away today after 75 mile trip..

To note: i looked over everything with fine tooth comb, no leaks, all wires are good, everything is connect correctly... I dont have voltage issue or anything like that, if anything the car starts easier and faster, even the lights appear brighter lol.... I'm just thinking maybe by cleaning the grounds and the terminals that it's affecting its "memory" on the computer voltages for the sensor and now the voltages are higher or lower because all the connections are cleaned, so it just needs to relearn what the new values are.. or am i just pulling at threads here?

I'm a little gun shy at the moment so I don't think I'm gonna be tearing apart the throttle body or anything else to clean it.... :unsure:

thanks guys.
 
It seems like the reading are all off on MAP sensor..... It also runs pretty bad when cold for a couple mins - almost like a misfire.

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engine off key on.
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I disconnected the battery again both negative and positive turned on key to drain any power, cleaned the MAP sensor, and reinstalled.. It was covered in a light oily residue, but as soon as a started the car, it stalled of course, re started and check engine light is already set, with the same p0106 code.....

Im at a loss. Even ran a jumper wire from the ground on battery to body ground, no difference in readings or anything like that...

Could it really be the sensor?

I called the dealer, and they advise i drive it for a couple days also to see if it goes away. They don't have sensor on hard so i will have to order OEM one off line if it does not correct its self in a couple days, and some miles.
 
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I disconnected the battery again both negative and positive turned on key to drain any power, cleaned the MAP sensor, and reinstalled.. It was covered in a light oily residue, but as soon as a started the car, it stalled of course, re started and check engine light is already set, with the same p0106 code.....

Im at a loss. Even ran a jumper wire from the ground on battery to body ground, no difference in readings or anything like that...

Could it really be the sensor?

I called the dealer, and they advise i drive it for a couple days also to see if it goes away. They don't have sensor on hard so i will have to order OEM one off line if it does not correct its self in a couple days, and some miles.
From what I found on the Forte Forums real quick, apparently they just do this (must have taken lessons from the Chrysler electrical enginerds, and I say that with love). The guys on the forums also recommend driving it a few days and it should go away.
 
From what I found on the Forte Forums real quick, apparently they just do this (must have taken lessons from the Chrysler electrical enginerds, and I say that with love). The guys on the forums also recommend driving it a few days and it should go away.
I put some miles on it and I’m getting over 35 mpg i’ve never got that high on my miles ever usually 27 max… So either somethings right or somethings really wrong lol I don’t have any drivability issues and if anything actually feels better so I’m gonna put a couple hundred miles on and reassess if the lights still lit
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Maybe there's some truth here on running it for a few days. I put about 80 miles very mixed driving with multiple shut off and start ups with no decrease in performance or anything.. Performance actually feels like it increased along with my gas mileage a solid 5 MPG.... no more misfires on start up or anything like that even after sitting hours, nor is the idle fluctuating or stalling.... Maybe this was a two-part problem, the first one being the map sensor was covered in oily residue, and two me disconnecting everything... I deleted the code but it's locked in on "permanent" no matter how many times I erase it. While the light did go off after erasing the code and did not come back on even after multiple start ups this permanent code is still there... Maybe I'm just being impatient and it needs another day or two and some more miles... Or I need to go to Kia, and have them use the GDS system and reset values on ECU. I am in no way spending 6K on this GDS tool lol, so it looks like worst case, i need to have them reset it..... I will keep you updated on this situation...

Notes: If it ain't broken... dont try to fix it haha..

Thanks!! 🙃

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The pressure readings look OK. In fhe "rarely used metric" units, 1 hPa = 0.1 kPa. Atmospheric pressure at sea level with no hurricane is about 1000 hPa, so 980 with the engine off is correct. The MAP will drop with the engine running, especially at idle.

It is probably what others said, a false code.
 
The pressure readings look OK. In fhe "rarely used metric" units, 1 hPa = 0.1 kPa. Atmospheric pressure at sea level with no hurricane is about 1000 hPa, so 980 with the engine off is correct. The MAP will drop with the engine running, especially at idle.

It is probably what others said, a false code.
Thank you for the reply i did not understand the unit of measure so thanks for breaking that down for me. I just looked at the numbers and thought I had some trouble here with it not reading correctly or sending wrong info. This OBD computer will give a lot of information but what good is it when I can't decipher it lol. (thats why i post on BITOG!!) and look through the OEM factory service manual and search for what I'm looking for in terms of specs and things like that, then i "compare" readings and go from there along with posting.

I'm really hoping this is nothing more then false code, because honestly the car at this point is has never ran better...... 🤔🤔🤔
 
UPDATE: ;)

The light stayed off, with no pending codes, no misfire or anything abnormal if anything its NEVER been so smooth - even on first start of the day at 18F, started within 1/3 of a sec, it idled perfectly, does not stall, and pulls hard under all conditions... My gas mileage increased a solid 5+ MPG also while the car is running better then ever... Even the throttle feels way more responsive. So i'd say it was really an issue with a dirty MAP, and electrical system because of all the corrosion and ground issues and everything else. I still have the "permanent" P0106, but there is no check engine light on, nor any pending codes.

So it really looks like the computer just has to re learn everything... i think in a few days the "permanent" will also go away once the computer sees everything is A okay after a few more start ups and some more miles.. I am not going to disconnect battery or mess with it any more - im just going to give it time, and check the system in a couple days. (y)


I really got myself worried on this one lol. Its a first on any of my Hyundais a p0106 after battery disconnect, and the fact i touched every ground in the engine bay, and cleaned MAP sensor, I had too many variables to know if I caused it or if it's just the nature of this car...

It looks like its just a software quirk that levels itself out after a few days and drive cycles...

You can be sure when I need to replace the battery in the Sonata or even on the kia, a "memory saver" will be used. I am not risking it again, and am wiser now lol.

Any recommendations on a reasonable memory saver - I don't even know if that's the correct name, but i will never do what i did again all at once esp on a kia or hyundai after this experience. :unsure:
 
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