Spray cleaning DI valves.
- Thread starter nicholas
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Haven't done the one of mine yet. It has 69k on it. Runs just fine. I don't think it's that big of a deal since the car is driven fully warm pretty much every trip.
Never. CX7 sold running great at 80,000 miles and now my CX5 at 48,000 miles running like new. Ed
Depends on the car, driving habits, and how long you plan to keep.
For European cars and the Toyota/Lexus 2.5 I would say ever 10-25k at least. Lower side if you plan to keep a long time.
For others every 25-30k seems fine. The CRC DI cleaner works pretty good. I then follow up at the next oil change with a quick spray of carb cleaner.
Originally Posted by Eddie
Never CX7 sold running great at 80,000 miles and now my CX5 at 48,000 miles running like new. Ed
The problem is if you wait till it shows issues its to late to clean with spraying. You have to at least pull the intake to blast it. Using spray cleaners helps keep it clean before it gets to thick/built up.
For European cars and the Toyota/Lexus 2.5 I would say ever 10-25k at least. Lower side if you plan to keep a long time.
For others every 25-30k seems fine. The CRC DI cleaner works pretty good. I then follow up at the next oil change with a quick spray of carb cleaner.
Originally Posted by Eddie
Never CX7 sold running great at 80,000 miles and now my CX5 at 48,000 miles running like new. Ed
The problem is if you wait till it shows issues its to late to clean with spraying. You have to at least pull the intake to blast it. Using spray cleaners helps keep it clean before it gets to thick/built up.
Probably won't do it unless my MPGs start to really drop. For my particular engine, BMW N55, buildup at 100k miles isn't enough to warrant cleaning.
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My cousins first generation Veloster that is TGDI gets done every 2-3 oil changes which is about once a year for her. She had to have the valves cleaned by Hyundai when the vehicle was young and hasn't needed it since this regiment. Not all vehicles need it but this being a first generation the control wasn't as good as it seems to be today so your requirements might vary if they are needed at all.
I will peer down the spark plug tubes into the cylinders with my boroscope camera and manually turn the engine over by hand until I can get somewhat of a shot of the valve to see its condition from the spark plug tube it can take some maneuvering of the camera to do this, or pull and injector and look through it's opening into the combustion chamber. Not all cars are easy to remove the plenum/intake on to look but this would also be an option depending on the time required.
Change the oil and filter right after is my recommendation if you go this route.
I will peer down the spark plug tubes into the cylinders with my boroscope camera and manually turn the engine over by hand until I can get somewhat of a shot of the valve to see its condition from the spark plug tube it can take some maneuvering of the camera to do this, or pull and injector and look through it's opening into the combustion chamber. Not all cars are easy to remove the plenum/intake on to look but this would also be an option depending on the time required.
Change the oil and filter right after is my recommendation if you go this route.
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As said, depends on the vehicle and driving conditions.
Some motors are more apt regardless of driving habits, I would hope most manufacturers have some system in place to keep it in check by now.
Some motors are more apt regardless of driving habits, I would hope most manufacturers have some system in place to keep it in check by now.
Originally Posted by nicholas
Doing some searches did not yield much.
How often do you guys spray clean your intake valves on your Direct Injected valves.
We do mostly city driving.
Thanks
How do you access the intake valves?
Doing some searches did not yield much.
How often do you guys spray clean your intake valves on your Direct Injected valves.
We do mostly city driving.
Thanks
How do you access the intake valves?
Originally Posted by newbe46
Originally Posted by nicholas
Doing some searches did not yield much.
How often do you guys spray clean your intake valves on your Direct Injected valves.
We do mostly city driving.
Thanks
How do you access the intake valves?
Remove the intake manifold.
Originally Posted by nicholas
Doing some searches did not yield much.
How often do you guys spray clean your intake valves on your Direct Injected valves.
We do mostly city driving.
Thanks
How do you access the intake valves?
Remove the intake manifold.
Most of the well conducted tests have shown all the spray cleaners, including Seafoam and CRC, don't do much with even modest carbon build up. Some dealers love to charge for these cleanings as it's yet another way for them to pad their revenue (and all the service writers work on commission) but the "before and after" pics of the back sides of intake valves rarely show any significant improvement. Some early D.I. engines, especially from VW, Audi, and Ford, have serious problems with carbon build up even in 20K or 30K miles. More to the point for this forum, using a very low volatility full synthetic oil should significantly help reduce carbon build up. The lubricant industry has a been a bit slow to respond but I think it's going to become arguably the most important criteria for choosing an oil in a direct injected engine (beyond using the right viscosity and service rating). The new GF-6 standard should help.
Originally Posted by nicholas
Doing some searches did not yield much.
How often do you guys spray clean your intake valves on your Direct Injected valves.
We do mostly city driving.
Thanks
Never touched them. One will turn 130k shortly and still runs great. IMHO no need to unless it's one of the engines that is prone to having issues,
Doing some searches did not yield much.
How often do you guys spray clean your intake valves on your Direct Injected valves.
We do mostly city driving.
Thanks
Never touched them. One will turn 130k shortly and still runs great. IMHO no need to unless it's one of the engines that is prone to having issues,
My son's 2008 Cadillac CTS, 190,000 miles without any valve cleaning runs fine. I wouldn't spend a dime on cleaning the valves unless I had good reason to think they were causing a problem.
Closing in on 100K on the RIO (Need to update signature...) No cleaning of valves.
Originally Posted by EngineeringGeek
using a very low volatility full synthetic oil should significantly help reduce carbon build up. .
This ^^^ ....... is why some people are obsessed about low NOACK % numbers, and trying "catch cans" in the PCV line.
Less oil vapors = less carbon on the back of the valves
using a very low volatility full synthetic oil should significantly help reduce carbon build up. .
This ^^^ ....... is why some people are obsessed about low NOACK % numbers, and trying "catch cans" in the PCV line.
Less oil vapors = less carbon on the back of the valves
Originally Posted by StevieC
My cousins first generation Veloster that is TGDI gets done every 2-3 oil changes which is about once a year for her. She had to have the valves cleaned by Hyundai when the vehicle was young and hasn't needed it since this regiment. Not all vehicles need it but this being a first generation the control wasn't as good as it seems to be today so your requirements might vary if they are needed at all.
I will peer down the spark plug tubes into the cylinders with my boroscope camera and manually turn the engine over by hand until I can get somewhat of a shot of the valve to see its condition from the spark plug tube it can take some maneuvering of the camera to do this, or pull and injector and look through it's opening into the combustion chamber. Not all cars are easy to remove the plenum/intake on to look but this would also be an option depending on the time required.
Change the oil and filter right after is my recommendation if you go this route.
Enter through the throttle plate and go down an intake runner to the intake port /valve.
My cousins first generation Veloster that is TGDI gets done every 2-3 oil changes which is about once a year for her. She had to have the valves cleaned by Hyundai when the vehicle was young and hasn't needed it since this regiment. Not all vehicles need it but this being a first generation the control wasn't as good as it seems to be today so your requirements might vary if they are needed at all.
I will peer down the spark plug tubes into the cylinders with my boroscope camera and manually turn the engine over by hand until I can get somewhat of a shot of the valve to see its condition from the spark plug tube it can take some maneuvering of the camera to do this, or pull and injector and look through it's opening into the combustion chamber. Not all cars are easy to remove the plenum/intake on to look but this would also be an option depending on the time required.
Change the oil and filter right after is my recommendation if you go this route.
Enter through the throttle plate and go down an intake runner to the intake port /valve.
@Walterjay and @GMBoy, some say you can damage your catalytic converter(s) by running products like CRC through the engine. I know CRC claims when it's done per their procedures that shouldn't be a problem but modern converters can be rather fussy and expensive. Just a persistent misfire on one cylinder can damage a converter. And emissions regulations require cars to monitor converter performance and throw a check engine light if they fall out of spec. Factory converters on a lot of new cars are $1000+. So, while it might not be likely, there is the chance you could be doing other harm trying to clean the valves. I've seen independent before and after pics of using both CRC and Seafoam and they appeared to do next to nothing. Most manufactures (vs dealers looking to make more money) only have approved mechanical cleaning methods like walnut blasting. So I'm not sure sprays and liquids are worth the cost or risk but that's just me. It does seem at least some of GM's D.I. motors are relatively immune to the carbon problem. I've seen conflicting mixed info about Hyundai/Kia GDI motors.
Originally Posted by Linctex
Originally Posted by EngineeringGeek
using a very low volatility full synthetic oil should significantly help reduce carbon build up. .
This ^^^ ....... is why some people are obsessed about low NOACK % numbers, and trying "catch cans" in the PCV line.
Less oil vapors = less carbon on the back of the valves
It has helped my cousins affected first gen Veloster greatly, but admitting that catch cans and low Noack are aiding in the situation, here is suicide. Heck just mentioning CRC regularly for an affected engine starts a war.
Originally Posted by EngineeringGeek
using a very low volatility full synthetic oil should significantly help reduce carbon build up. .
This ^^^ ....... is why some people are obsessed about low NOACK % numbers, and trying "catch cans" in the PCV line.
Less oil vapors = less carbon on the back of the valves
It has helped my cousins affected first gen Veloster greatly, but admitting that catch cans and low Noack are aiding in the situation, here is suicide. Heck just mentioning CRC regularly for an affected engine starts a war.
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