Spark Plugs

[Whimsey]

What Jelly says, but let it soak at least overnight. Make sure your remove the sparkplug wires first before you spray the plugs. If they still don't move try tightening them first, JUST A VERY LITTLE, then immediately try loosening. Keep doing this and there is an excellent chance they will break free and come out. If your head is cast iron you should not have any problems. If you have an aluminum head just be careful and NOT BRUTAL. When you put new plugs in make sure you use a little antiseize on the plug threads. You also probably should get new plug wires. I like OEM's because you have the least problems with them. When installing the wires use a silicone electrical grease in both ends of the plug wires.

Whimsey

 

[pitzel]

I'm not a mech guy, but is there any harm in removing spark plugs from an aluminum head thats been slightly warmed up? Sure would make it easier.

I am well aware of all the admonishments against *installing* spark plugs into a warm head, but is removal a problem (burned fingers aside)?

 

[Farbie]

I bought a 1996 Chevy Beretta with the 4 cylinder engine. The car has 6 thousand miles and the plugs have never been changed. The plugs seem to be frozen in place. Any suggestions or tips to safely try to removed these plugs without creating a disaster., Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Jelly]

Six-thousand on a '96?

Wait until the engine is cool and douse 'em in PB Penetrating Catalyst...

 

[mechtech]

At my shop we always try and remove plugs on a warm engine. Most heads are aluminum now, and the heat expands the head threads away from the plug threads, and they come out easier.

 

[Kestas]

I was going to advise warming the engine up, but then I realized that aluminum has half it's strength at operating temperatures (300-350°F), so that may work against breaking it loose. But then some have reported good luck warming an engine to aid removal.

Ditto on the neversieze and silicone grease.

 

[Eddie]

The key word is WARM to the touch and not hot.

 

[labman]

I read a post here on freeing rusted nuts. It suggested heating it with a torch and touching it with a candle. I would skip the torch and rely on driving the car to heat it up. With the engine hot, try the candle, maybe pushing some scrapings down into the well. Let it cool down most of the way, and then try.

All the thicker is better faction should love wax.

 

[Ken4]

I left my OEM platinum plugs in for 50,000km. And you guessed it, it was frozen solid. The spark plug T-wrench broke. Penetrating oil didnt work. So I used a 2' long socket wrench and yanked it out.

 

[cousincletus]

Had a similar problem on the same engine you're working on (I'm assuming 2.2 OHV). I removed them when the engine was fully warmed up. That's the only way I could get them out and still messed up the threads on #4. Was able to chase the threads (14mm spark plug thread tap). There are ways to repair the threads without pulling the head if you strip one out.

 

[Farbie]

Thanks everyone for the advise. I soaked the plug with PB Blaster and let it sit a couple of days. I then tightened the plug slightly and then loosened and the plug finally broke free. Thankfully I didn't have any problems removing the three remaining plugs.