Spark Plugs Binding on Removal

[StillLearning]

I am attempting to do a spark plug change on a new to me 2003 Tundra with the 4.7l V8. I was told it has the original copper plugs in it and it now has a little over 100k miles on it. It still runs well but I would like to change the plugs as preventative maintenance.

Upon attempting to remove a couple of the plugs, I am able to break the free, but I can hardly turn them before they start to bind in the threads. I have never had a spark plug not just spin out relatively easily once being broken free, so I just torqued them back into place for now.

Any ideas on how to get these plugs out without breaking them or stripping out the threads? Considered some PB blaster, but thought I would check here for any ideas first. The plug holes are about 6" deep, so difficult to really see the plug at the bottom of the hole.

Thanks

 

[JeffKeryk]

Work them back and forth. Squirt a little WD40 or whatever to clean and lube the threads.
This is one of the easiest V8 engines ever made to service the spark plugs.
I am also a proponent of a wisp of antiseize on the plug threads upon assembly.
And use NGK or Denso plugs!

Our 2001 Tundra is over 200K with zero issues beyond maintenance.
Good luck.

 

[fsdork]

Not to offend you if you know better, but the engine wouldn't have been hot by chance?

 

[simple_gifts]

OT: I generally mention that this is a timing belt engine; obvious to some, not to others. Interval is 90K

 

[atikovi]

You could crack them loose as much as you dare, put the coils back and run it a minute or two. Take the coils out and fill with transmission fluid to the top of the threads and try again tomorrow.

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

Probably carbon build-up on the bottom of the plugs where they enter the combustion chamber. Crack them, work them back and forth just a little to loosen them slightly, then hose them with carb cleaner so it seeps down the threads and softens it up.

 

[spasm3]

Work them back and forth. Squirt a little WD40 or whatever to clean and lube the threads.
This is one of the easiest V8 engines ever made to service the spark plugs.
I am also a proponent of a wisp of antiseize on the plug threads upon assembly.
And use NGK or Denso plugs!

Our 2001 Tundra is over 200K with zero issues beyond maintenance.
Good luck.

This. Back and forth so you don't remove the threads.

 

[StillLearning]

Thanks for the replies so far

Work them back and forth. Squirt a little WD40 or whatever to clean and lube the threads.
This is one of the easiest V8 engines ever made to service the spark plugs.
I am also a proponent of a wisp of antiseize on the plug threads upon assembly.
And use NGK or Denso plugs!

Our 2001 Tundra is over 200K with zero issues beyond maintenance.
Good luck.

I believe I have Densos replace them with. I got them straight from the stealership. For $1.87/ea I wasn't going to mess around.

Not to offend you if you know better, but the engine wouldn't have been hot by chance?

No offense taken. I tried removal with the motor cold. Would having the heads up to operating temp help?

 

[WylieCoyote]

I've always been told to do aluminum heads cold, as the warmer aluminum is, the softer it is.

 

[fsdork]

No offense taken. I tried removal with the motor cold. Would having the heads up to operating temp help?

I've always understood cold to be the right way, but I'm sure someone with more experience/training will chime in.

 

[AutoMechanic]

I would not take them out hot or warm. I’ve done that before and learned my lesson. These really have copper plugs? I thought by this point Toyota has switched to iridium plugs or at least platinum I know they did in the cars of that time. Loosen it then tighten it a bit then loosen more and just keep repeating that. And as stated above just a dab of anti seize on the plugs any type will be fine aluminum, copper, nickel etc.

 

[Rob_Roy]

Probably carbon build-up on the bottom of the plugs where they enter the combustion chamber. Crack them, work them back and forth just a little to loosen them slightly, then hose them with carb cleaner so it seeps down the threads and softens it up.

https://www.aa1car.com/library/ford_tsb_08-7-6.pdf

 

[Barkleymut]

Are these 2 piece plugs like in a modular Ford?

 

[Trav]

Work them back and forth. Squirt a little WD40 or whatever to clean and lube the threads.
This is one of the easiest V8 engines ever made to service the spark plugs.
I am also a proponent of a wisp of antiseize on the plug threads upon assembly.
And use NGK or Denso plugs!

Our 2001 Tundra is over 200K with zero issues beyond maintenance.
Good luck.

This ^^^^

 

[StillLearning]

Our 2001 Tundra is over 200K with zero issues beyond maintenance.
Good luck.

I missed this part. That's what I like to hear!

This. Back and forth so you don't remove the threads.

This sounds like the consensus

OT: I generally mention that this is a timing belt engine; obvious to some, not to others. Interval is 90K

Timing belt, water pump and tensioner were the first orders of business. I didn't do that job myself, but I did see the belt that came off and I have to say it was in great shape for a 18yr old belt. It had just started cracking a little on the edges.

I've always understood cold to be the right way, but I'm sure someone with more experience/training will chime in.

I will stick with the cold motor

 

[StillLearning]

I believe I have Densos replace them with. I got them straight from the stealership. For $1.87/ea I wasn't going to mess around.

Turns out the plugs I got the from the dealer were actually NKG plugs, not Densos.

In looking it up on the NKG site, they recommend NOT to use antiseize with their plugs?

5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs - NGK Spark Plugs

The five things you should know about spark plugs include information on anti-seize, corona stain, gapping fine wire, torque and copper spark plugs.

ngksparkplugs.com

Does anyone have any experience with this?

Also, should I be concerned about cleaning out the threads of any penetrating oil that will likely be left on them after I get the plugs out? Would a blast of compressed air be sufficient?

 

[Snagglefoot]

One thing for sure, I put aside the 1/4 inch ratchet and put on a 1/2 inch ratchet with a cross over on the spark plug socket. On my LS engine with aluminum heads and nickel coated spark plugs in place for 10 years, they each made a mighty squeak and then came out no problem.

 

[kschachn]

Turns out the plugs I got the from the dealer were actually NKG plugs, not Densos.

In looking it up on the NKG site, they recommend NOT to use antiseize with their plugs?

5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs - NGK Spark Plugs

The five things you should know about spark plugs include information on anti-seize, corona stain, gapping fine wire, torque and copper spark plugs.

ngksparkplugs.com

Does anyone have any experience with this?

Also, should I be concerned about cleaning out the threads of any penetrating oil that will likely be left on them after I get the plugs out? Would a blast of compressed air be sufficient?

That's been a often asked question and it's been discussed in quite a bit of detail here.

I was forever a proponent of following the spark plug manufacturer's recommendations for not using anti-seize up until I changed out the plugs in my old ECHO this last time. On all my other old cars, I've never had one issue with not using it even after 100,000 miles or more. But this last time they were stuck much like you described and I was afraid I was going to strip the threads in the head. That didn't happen but when the new NGK plugs went back in I used a dab of nickel anti-seize on the threads. If you use the torque angle method of installation that's on the box then it doesn't matter if the threads are lubricated or not.

But like I said, with all the other plug changes on my cars (some four times in 20 years) never a problem until this time.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Turns out the plugs I got the from the dealer were actually NKG plugs, not Densos.

In looking it up on the NKG site, they recommend NOT to use antiseize with their plugs?

5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs - NGK Spark Plugs

The five things you should know about spark plugs include information on anti-seize, corona stain, gapping fine wire, torque and copper spark plugs.

ngksparkplugs.com

Does anyone have any experience with this?

Also, should I be concerned about cleaning out the threads of any penetrating oil that will likely be left on them after I get the plugs out? Would a blast of compressed air be sufficient?

I use it on all plugs regardless of what they recommend. I’ve had too many seized in the head to not use it. Especially if you plan on taking these to 100,000.

 

[spasm3]

I know NGK says not to use anti-seize. But i always do. Just a bit, on the first threads so it works up the threads as you screw the plug in. I think it helps the carbon come off when you loosen the plugs later.

Just be careful to not get it on the porcelain/ceramic center!