Spark Plugs Binding on Removal

I don't use or recommend any thread lube on a newer spark plug. It will cause you to overtorque. Could also cause corrosion with the different metals.

My recommendations is to work on a ice cold engine. Just ratchet that plug out and install the new fancy plug, torqued to spec and don't worry about it.

Autolite, Bosch, Denso, NGK.... doesn't make a difference. I've used them all in Toyotas. The only thing I look for is the double-fancy-metals. They'll pretty much last forever, or the next 100k.
 
StillLearning said:
Turns out the plugs I got the from the dealer were actually NKG plugs, not Densos.

In looking it up on the NKG site, they recommend NOT to use antiseize with their plugs?

5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs - NGK Spark Plugs

The five things you should know about spark plugs include information on anti-seize, corona stain, gapping fine wire, torque and copper spark plugs.
ngksparkplugs.com ngksparkplugs.com

Does anyone have any experience with this?

Also, should I be concerned about cleaning out the threads of any penetrating oil that will likely be left on them after I get the plugs out? Would a blast of compressed air be sufficient?
Click to expand...
Of course they don't recommend using it, they would be beyond insane of they did. The use of antiseize lowers the torque and if used improperly can cause misfires that could destroy the cat which would open them them up to lawsuits not only from consumers but the EPA.
Who is installing them and the amount being used is beyond their control so it is safer to say rely on the plating.

The plugs are plated why do I need antiseize?
Depending on where you live plays a big part in the answer, if you live in a warmer climate like down south then probably not on plated plugs but if you live in a 4 season climate you have conditions they don't.
Cold starts in low temps cause a lot more fuel and moisture in the cylinders together with combustion heat creates a corrosive environment, plugs threads corrode from below not above where there is a seal either in the form of a gasket or taper.
Some engines are more prone to this than others eg old Ford Kent engines were so bad if you didn't remove early and antiseize them there was a very good chance you would end up puling the head to get the broken ones out.

Aluminum head(s) further exacerbate this issue as the aluminum expands many times more than the steel plug allowing even more junk up into the threads. The thing is with antiseize you need to reduce the torque (20% less is safe) and don't use too much, make sure you don't get any on the firing end just a very small amount on the treads.

I have used antiseize on every single plug over the last 50 years and never had one cause a problem either being removed or misfire but ones I didn't service I have had a lot of them (yes even the plated ones) stuck so bad I was lucky to remove them

Apologies for the long winded post but this subject demands an explanation.
 
My old Tundra plugs spec 13 pound feet of torque. I use just a wisp of antiseize, not sloshing it on. This also avoids galling.
13 * 120% = 15.6 pound feet. I bet your strong armed guy with his calculated wrist can do a far worse job than this.
I do reduce the torque setting a pound or 2.

If a small amount of antiseize were used on the OP's car, the plugs would have spun out easily. I hate stuck plugs in aluminum heads.
I also spray a tiny a little WD40 down the plug hole to clean the threads. Flame suit on...
Just my 2 cents.
 
Tens of thousands of plugs changed in my consumer car repair career, and more-so later pursuing a racing hobby. Yes, NGK recommends nothing on the threads. As others have already stated, I saw the results of plugs installed using the no anti-sieze method. So I use just a touch of anti-sieze on the threads, and torque them with the presence of anti-sieze in mind. No issues.
 
Trav said:
...I have used antiseize on every single plug over the last 50 years and never had one cause a problem either being removed or misfire but ones I didn't service I have had a lot of them (yes even the plated ones) stuck so bad I was lucky to remove them....
Click to expand...

Which anti-seize do you use on aluminum heads?
 
Curious what Trav uses, i use this. I do want to try some of the nickel anti-seize. But nickel is not for AL iirc.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-800...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584001419021942&psc=1

A bottle will last forever. I've had this at least a decade , maybe 2.
The working is flaking off the bottle.
IMG_20210407_214304166.jpg
 
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You could use any of them in an aluminum head. Probably aluminum based would be best. I usually use copper on plugs and I do use aluminum occasionally. You could use nickel too.
 
Greasymechtech said:
I don't use or recommend any thread lube on a newer spark plug. It will cause you to overtorque.
Click to expand...
What do you mean overtorque? Its not rocket science to tighten plugs. Tapered seat without a gasket, tighten until it bottoms out plus 1/16 turn. Plugs with a gasket, tighten until it bottoms out plus about 1/2 to 3/4 turn to crush the gasket until it stops turning with light force.
 
atikovi said:
What do you mean overtorque? Its not rocket science to tighten plugs. Tapered seat without a gasket, tighten until it bottoms out plus 1/16 turn. Plugs with a gasket, tighten until it bottoms out plus about 1/2 to 3/4 turn to crush the gasket until it stops turning with light force.
Click to expand...
And as I mentioned in my post above, you don't even have to torque the plugs. There are "non torque" instructions right on the package.
 
I don't care what is on the package. Multiple engines can use the plug. Feel free to quote the FSM manual. And, I see at least one understands what a lube does when torqueing.

And yes, for many hacks, it is rocket science to do a job with some attention to detail.
 
spasm3 said:
Curious what Trav uses, i use this. I do want to try some of the nickel anti-seize. But nickel is not for AL iirc.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-800...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584001419021942&psc=1
Click to expand...
Looks like a good choice, with a blend of aluminum, copper, and graphite. They now call it Aluminum Anti-Seize Lubricant. Also available in a small tube:
www.permatex.com

Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant

A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant ...
www.permatex.com www.permatex.com

TDS for Aluminum AS:

From browsing the Permatex website, the 2 products they recommend for spark plugs in aluminum heads are the Aluminum Anti-Seize Lubricant and the Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant. The Copper is good to 1800 degF and the Aluminum is good to 1600 degF.

TDS for Copper AS:
 
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atikovi said:
Where do you get that from? I've used this for years on all plugs.

817to3BOPfL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
Click to expand...
Looks like its fine for AL, for some reason i thought it was contraindicated .

The TDS does not say you can't.

In fact the SDS says there is some aluminum powder in it.

www.permatex.com

Permatex® Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant

Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400°F (1316°C). It is recommended where copper contamination must be avoided, under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature, and with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys.
www.permatex.com www.permatex.com

file:///C:/Users/home/AppData/Local/Temp/77134.pdf

file:///C:/Users/home/AppData/Local/Temp/77134-1.pdf
 
This is the stuff I use along with the aluminum. Aluminum, ceramic or copper for aluminum heads, copper or nickel for iron and nickel only for extreme heat and stainless to stainless. The nickel is really good stuff but not cheap.

IMG_0629.JPG



Edit: If anyone believes NGK plated plugs will not seize under certain conditions here you go (not my photo).

Spark Plugs.JPG
 
Get out your Ingersoll Rand Thunder Gun. Turn air compressor to max psi, so 120-130 ish. Give each spark plug two ugga dugga's in reverse then forward. Repeat cycle until removed. Use hand tools when installing the new plugs.
 
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