Some will call me crazy

[Bunny]

Hello all,

I Bought this brand new 2016 Volkswagen Golf R in june , so far 8500 km on the factory fill and i'm planing to change it at 10 000 km with Castrol Edge 0W40. The first oil change per owner manual is 15 000 km.

Yes some might think i'm crazy because I read people here saying I will dump the factory fill at 1000 km to get rid of metal shaving and stuff. Honnestly an oil filter has micron size pores and engine manufacturing now is not what it was 30 years ago.

The first 2000 km on my car consumed about 1/4 liter of oil and now it does not consume any oil at all. My commute is 15 km wich is 50/50 highway and city and last for about 15 min just enough so the oil reach is full temperature ( I know because golf R's have an oil temps indicator)

Now this engine is an 2.0 liter Direct injection turbocharged and intercooled. its producing 292 hp and 280 lbs/ft of torque, oil sump capacity is 5.7 liter. I feed it with 91 octane free from any ethanol. I sometimes drive it hard.. its a golf R after all but always after oil temperature matches coolant temperature. OCI on this car is 15 000 km (10k miles). There is no sever service schedule in the manual. My plan is to shave 1/3 of it because of my region hard climate and my hard driving habits wich brings it to 10 000 km OCI. Turbo coking is not much of an issue because the turbo housing is water cooled and there is an electrical auxiliary water pump runing after engine is shut down.

I have easy and more or less cheap (depending on specials) acces to Castrol Edge 0w40, 5W40, 0W30 as well as Mobil 1 0W40 and PU 5W40. all carry the VW 502 standard my car is labeled with.

Edge 0w40 was on special for 32$ for a 5 liter jug so I bought 4 of them and im planing to use this oil all the time with 10 000km OCI and filter wise (cartridge) I will buy them from the dealership.

am I crazy ?

 

[SatinSilver]

You're fine. The 2012 Camry went 10k on it's first oci and it now runs like a top 5 yrs later with 63k miles on it. I wouldn't sweat it. Otherwise it's like splitting hairs.

 

[edyvw]

You can stay with Castrol 0W40. Personally in your area during winter I would switch to Castrol 0W30 or run 0W30 all year around if you are not making that many miles and you change oil once a year. 0W30 will do great in that engine and since it is DI engine, and 0W30 has lower NOACK then 0W40, it will create less CBU.
By the way, there is Euro specific forum here.

 

[Bunny]

Originally Posted By: edyvw
You can stay with Castrol 0W40. Personally in your area during winter I would switch to Castrol 0W30 or run 0W30 all year around if you are not making that many miles and you change oil once a year. 0W30 will do great in that engine and since it is DI engine, and 0W30 has lower NOACK then 0W40, it will create less CBU.
By the way, there is Euro specific forum here.


Thanks but i'm sure a german car still takes PCMO

 

[Brybo86]

Originally Posted By: Bunny
Originally Posted By: edyvw
You can stay with Castrol 0W40. Personally in your area during winter I would switch to Castrol 0W30 or run 0W30 all year around if you are not making that many miles and you change oil once a year. 0W30 will do great in that engine and since it is DI engine, and 0W30 has lower NOACK then 0W40, it will create less CBU.
By the way, there is Euro specific forum here.


Thanks but i'm sure a german car still takes PCMO


So what is Castrol 0w30 if not PCMO?

 

[Bunny]

Originally Posted By: Brybo86
Originally Posted By: Bunny
Originally Posted By: edyvw
You can stay with Castrol 0W40. Personally in your area during winter I would switch to Castrol 0W30 or run 0W30 all year around if you are not making that many miles and you change oil once a year. 0W30 will do great in that engine and since it is DI engine, and 0W30 has lower NOACK then 0W40, it will create less CBU.
By the way, there is Euro specific forum here.


Thanks but i'm sure a german car still takes PCMO


So what is Castrol 0w30 if not PCMO?


A PCMO oil wich is API SN and has several european approvals and made in Belgium.

 

[FCD]

Stay with the Castrol 0W-40 , any 0W or 5W40 with the VW 502 approval will do.

 

[Bunny]

thanks for your inputs

 

[fdcg27]

Nothing crazy about a drain much earlier than what VW recommends.
Manufacturing debris?
That's what the oil filter is for.
You also plan more frequent than recommended drains which seems reasonable.
No engine ever suffered from too frequent drains. The owner's wallet might, but the incremental cost is nugatory in the context of the overall costs involved in owning and using any vehicle.
You don't appear to be crazy.
I think you have a good plan.

 

[KL31]

I'd go 10,000 kms like you plan to. Sounds like a good idea for a turbo DI engine unless you're doing 100% highway and babying it all the time.

As for the factory fill, I'd change early but I'm sure it will be fine either way.

 

[MRtv]

Yeah I agree that a early drain of factory oil is just fine. I have done all my engines early. Rebuilt 4.6 liter in Ford F150. The new Huskvarna mower. Also neighbors new car. All had tiny metal shavings. The part about the filter trapping them, well I saw metal flake in my oil pan so I am not convinced the filter gets them all.

 

[BrocLuno]

Bunny,

I agree with most of your analysis, but on a new engine there are always small amounts of machining metals here and there. Whether they become dislodged and circulate is anyone's guess... But, if they do, they have to go through the oil pump BEFORE they get to the filter. So the part about filtration taking care of it - nope ... does not work that way, at least for the pump ...

Secondly, if the night was cold enough to thicken the oil enough, it will by-pass the filter because the media will slow the flow and the pressure build-up will open the by-pass. So it's quite possible for those little bits to go through the pump and then right past the filter ...

Which is why I always recommend an oversized filter if you can find one that fits properly. The larger media area offers less resistance to cool/cold oil and and it just might all go through the filter all the time

On our race motors we block off all the by-passes so all the oil goes through a filter all the time. But we generally don't start those motors at winter outdoor temps even in Calif. Up where you are it's a whole nuther level of viscosity change with temp

 

[Eddie]

Not crazy but, sensible IMP. Ed

 

[4WD]

Sorry - you just can't be so darn informed and logical and take over the crazy title ...
Good plan ...

 

[KL31]

Originally Posted By: MRtv
The part about the filter trapping them, well I saw metal flake in my oil pan so I am not convinced the filter gets them all.


I remember some tiny bits when first dumping oil after rebuild too. There weren't that many but they were visible and that was 500 kms after rebuilding.

OP will run and change oil now?

 

[edyvw]

Originally Posted By: Bunny
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
Originally Posted By: Bunny
Originally Posted By: edyvw
You can stay with Castrol 0W40. Personally in your area during winter I would switch to Castrol 0W30 or run 0W30 all year around if you are not making that many miles and you change oil once a year. 0W30 will do great in that engine and since it is DI engine, and 0W30 has lower NOACK then 0W40, it will create less CBU.
By the way, there is Euro specific forum here.


Thanks but i'm sure a german car still takes PCMO


So what is Castrol 0w30 if not PCMO?


A PCMO oil wich is API SN and has several european approvals and made in Belgium.

Nope, it is API SL.
And reason why I mentioned Euro specific forum is that Euro car enthusiasts are hanging around there. You might get better response and more accurate response.
But hey, your call.

 

[Bunny]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Bunny,

I agree with most of your analysis, but on a new engine there are always small amounts of machining metals here and there. Whether they become dislodged and circulate is anyone's guess... But, if they do, they have to go through the oil pump BEFORE they get to the filter. So the part about filtration taking care of it - nope ... does not work that way, at least for the pump ...

Secondly, if the night was cold enough to thicken the oil enough, it will by-pass the filter because the media will slow the flow and the pressure build-up will open the by-pass. So it's quite possible for those little bits to go through the pump and then right past the filter ...

Which is why I always recommend an oversized filter if you can find one that fits properly. The larger media area offers less resistance to cool/cold oil and and it just might all go through the filter all the time

On our race motors we block off all the by-passes so all the oil goes through a filter all the time. But we generally don't start those motors at winter outdoor temps even in Calif. Up where you are it's a whole nuther level of viscosity change with temp

The 2.0 liter EA888 engine found in recent Volkswagen have a cartridge type filter in a fix housing. I think I should be fine in winter with 0w40 or maybe the 0w30 from Castrol

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Bunny,

I agree with most of your analysis, but on a new engine there are always small amounts of machining metals here and there. Whether they become dislodged and circulate is anyone's guess... But, if they do, they have to go through the oil pump BEFORE they get to the filter. So the part about filtration taking care of it - nope ... does not work that way, at least for the pump ...

Secondly, if the night was cold enough to thicken the oil enough, it will by-pass the filter because the media will slow the flow and the pressure build-up will open the by-pass. So it's quite possible for those little bits to go through the pump and then right past the filter ...

Which is why I always recommend an oversized filter if you can find one that fits properly. The larger media area offers less resistance to cool/cold oil and and it just might all go through the filter all the time

On our race motors we block off all the by-passes so all the oil goes through a filter all the time. But we generally don't start those motors at winter outdoor temps even in Calif. Up where you are it's a whole nuther level of viscosity change with temp

Same here, an early change or two is what I always do. Otherwise the plan sounds solid.

 

[Camprunner]

Great car I nearly purchased one myself I would run Castrol 0w40 year round and it gets -20F here in Western MA. As for the early oil change when new I usually try to on my personal cars but all the cars and trucks we have at work were never changed early and all seem to go 200-300,000 miles without issue so I don't think it matters.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: edyvw
You can stay with Castrol 0W40. Personally in your area during winter I would switch to Castrol 0W30 or run 0W30 all year around if you are not making that many miles and you change oil once a year. 0W30 will do great in that engine and since it is DI engine, and 0W30 has lower NOACK then 0W40, it will create less CBU.

Buying Castrol 0w-30 A3/B4 is a little expensive up here compared to the 0w-40 A3/B4, which is available in jugs. The best bet is to wait for the 0w-40 jugs to be on special and get a few. Finding 0w-30 at under $8 a litre these days is next to impossible. It was fine when it and M1 0w-40 were the only game in town and were both only in 1 litre bottles, but fortunately, things have changed.

Bunny: Edyvw was recommending PCMOs, and approved ones at that. My recommendations are in the above paragraph, and are based upon price considerations. Shell and Imperial Oil also have approved lubricants, as you mention. NAPA Canada has the Shell stuff in EcoBoxes on special, if that floats your boat.