Some manufacturer's recommendation in cars driven
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Originally Posted By: fdcg27
If Toyota thinks that its V-6 is fine with anything from a 0W-20 to a 20W-50, then it is. Nothing changes between NA and Australia other than the grade recommendations.
The engine will outlast the vehicle in which it's installed either way.
See, that's contrary to my thinking. I took over Pops pick-up when it was on its second engine and we drove it through its third engine, out to over 0.5M miles.
Most of my cars from boyhood on have lived long enough for two engines at least. It's how I learned to wrench... A lot of the relatives are the same.
We don't have snow or salt... So bodies tend to last a l-o-n-g time. Interiors need a spruce-up around 200,000 miles and that's often when it'll get a motor as the power is down and fuel consumption is up. It has not quit running, or started missing. Oil is not being gulped, but in general, its engine getting a bit long in the tooth.
It's also time to up the game a bit. Bump the CR, cam it a bit more. If we've been looking at ten years worth of SMOG tests, we have a pretty good idea what we can get away with and still pass
That's why I know what the internals look like under varying maintenance regimens... I do some relatives motors now and then and I see what extending OCI's looks like on Jiffy Lube bulk oil. I also get to see what my motors look like if I have to back in for some reason like leaking manifold gaskets (coolant issues), or a carb and manifold change. EFI is more forgiving, but still...
We only recently sold some of the farm trucks due to the brothers passing (Uncles). 1938 Dodge 1 1/2 ton flatbed prolly had 6 engines in it's life. The 1956 Ford F600 maybe four (Y-blocks). These trucks worked hard, pulling hills with trailers with farm equipment on them. The 1938 Chevy "Saw Car" (runs a buzz saw in the woods) had at least three engines and it hardly ever saw the road.
The diesel stuff is different. Gasoline engines tend to wear faster. More highly stressed components and nastier combustion by-products. The light duty trucks and passenger cars tend to last until they can't be given to a younger relative - no one wants them. Too old, old fashioned, not cool, etc. But unless wrecked, the motors go sooner than the rest ...
Consequently, we care about lubrication. Delo400 15W-40 for most of the fleet. Chevron Supreme 10W-30 for the rest. Occasionally, someone will get a car or light truck that will start out on 5W-30... But as soon as it's done with warranty, it gets what we have from the distributor.
Now that I live away from the farm, I get to play with more different kinds of lubes. But I still have jugs of what we used farming for those motors that do well on that.
I guess, if I ever get a 201X vintage something, I'll look at maybe some lighter oils. But I have some BBC's to build before that will happen
If Toyota thinks that its V-6 is fine with anything from a 0W-20 to a 20W-50, then it is. Nothing changes between NA and Australia other than the grade recommendations.
The engine will outlast the vehicle in which it's installed either way.
See, that's contrary to my thinking. I took over Pops pick-up when it was on its second engine and we drove it through its third engine, out to over 0.5M miles.
Most of my cars from boyhood on have lived long enough for two engines at least. It's how I learned to wrench... A lot of the relatives are the same.
We don't have snow or salt... So bodies tend to last a l-o-n-g time. Interiors need a spruce-up around 200,000 miles and that's often when it'll get a motor as the power is down and fuel consumption is up. It has not quit running, or started missing. Oil is not being gulped, but in general, its engine getting a bit long in the tooth.
It's also time to up the game a bit. Bump the CR, cam it a bit more. If we've been looking at ten years worth of SMOG tests, we have a pretty good idea what we can get away with and still pass
That's why I know what the internals look like under varying maintenance regimens... I do some relatives motors now and then and I see what extending OCI's looks like on Jiffy Lube bulk oil. I also get to see what my motors look like if I have to back in for some reason like leaking manifold gaskets (coolant issues), or a carb and manifold change. EFI is more forgiving, but still...
We only recently sold some of the farm trucks due to the brothers passing (Uncles). 1938 Dodge 1 1/2 ton flatbed prolly had 6 engines in it's life. The 1956 Ford F600 maybe four (Y-blocks). These trucks worked hard, pulling hills with trailers with farm equipment on them. The 1938 Chevy "Saw Car" (runs a buzz saw in the woods) had at least three engines and it hardly ever saw the road.
The diesel stuff is different. Gasoline engines tend to wear faster. More highly stressed components and nastier combustion by-products. The light duty trucks and passenger cars tend to last until they can't be given to a younger relative - no one wants them. Too old, old fashioned, not cool, etc. But unless wrecked, the motors go sooner than the rest ...
Consequently, we care about lubrication. Delo400 15W-40 for most of the fleet. Chevron Supreme 10W-30 for the rest. Occasionally, someone will get a car or light truck that will start out on 5W-30... But as soon as it's done with warranty, it gets what we have from the distributor.
Now that I live away from the farm, I get to play with more different kinds of lubes. But I still have jugs of what we used farming for those motors that do well on that.
I guess, if I ever get a 201X vintage something, I'll look at maybe some lighter oils. But I have some BBC's to build before that will happen
Many Corolla here run 10w30 and I have yet to see one that died early.
Winters are usually from -10 to - 30
Winters are usually from -10 to - 30
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Here's one I scored yesterday from a Landrover Discovery 2 2003MY
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/akashafamily/Lube Stuff/IMG_5453.jpg
Owner is putting in Edge 5W30 A3/B4 next service.
5W30 is good up to 35C but 10W30 is good only to 30C ? At the minimum 10W30 should be good to 35C same as 5W30.
Here's one I scored yesterday from a Landrover Discovery 2 2003MY
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/akashafamily/Lube Stuff/IMG_5453.jpg
Owner is putting in Edge 5W30 A3/B4 next service.
5W30 is good up to 35C but 10W30 is good only to 30C ? At the minimum 10W30 should be good to 35C same as 5W30.
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
The disparity between 5w-30 and 10w-30 temp ranges in there is the strangest to me. Just because an oil is 5w-30 or 10w-30 doesnt make it destined for such low temps or magically robust to support the higher ones. THe oils are indeed the same viscosity at operating temperatures, quality and shear stability aside.
The BMW chart is much more realistic in that maybe a 10w-30 can go a little higher given less VIIs, etc.
That's the 1st thing that jumped out at me. Those oil charts above don't think much of 5w-30 above 60 deg F, making them generally useless for all of the US during April-October. One would think a 30 grade is a 30 grade and would hold up for an OCI regardless of whether 0w, 5w, or 10w. The 5w-20 is off the scale low. 540Rat would not be happy with that.
That jumped out to me as well.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
The disparity between 5w-30 and 10w-30 temp ranges in there is the strangest to me. Just because an oil is 5w-30 or 10w-30 doesnt make it destined for such low temps or magically robust to support the higher ones. THe oils are indeed the same viscosity at operating temperatures, quality and shear stability aside.
The BMW chart is much more realistic in that maybe a 10w-30 can go a little higher given less VIIs, etc.
That's the 1st thing that jumped out at me. Those oil charts above don't think much of 5w-30 above 60 deg F, making them generally useless for all of the US during April-October. One would think a 30 grade is a 30 grade and would hold up for an OCI regardless of whether 0w, 5w, or 10w. The 5w-20 is off the scale low. 540Rat would not be happy with that.
That jumped out to me as well.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
5W30 is good up to 35C but 10W30 is good only to 30C ? At the minimum 10W30 should be good to 35C same as 5W30.
I know !!! W_T_F ?
5W30 is good up to 35C but 10W30 is good only to 30C ? At the minimum 10W30 should be good to 35C same as 5W30.
I know !!! W_T_F ?
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Quote:
Therefore,an additional lubricant is studied, namely a 0W20 oil. By reducing the lubricant viscosity significantly,not only the power losses within the lubricant film decrease, but at the same time the likelihood of metal-metal contact increases.
Quote:
It is found that a friction reduction of about 8%can be achieved for the journal bearings using a 0W20 lubricant with a 3.6 mPa s HTHS-viscosity.A more common 0W20 oil with a HTHS-viscosity of 2.8 mPa s achieves the same friction reduction,but shows the presence of metal-metal contact for full load operation. This metal-metal contact might be able to be addressed by suitable additive technology of the lubricant or alternative surface technology for the shaft or bearing
More HTHS, more hydrodynamic film thickness, less occurrence of metal to metal contact.
Why spend time, $ and effort on 'suitable additive technology for lubricants' and 'alternative surface technology on materials' to tackle 'metal to metal contact phenomenon' .........
only to be negated by selecting lower viscosity/hths oils?
Quote:
Therefore,an additional lubricant is studied, namely a 0W20 oil. By reducing the lubricant viscosity significantly,not only the power losses within the lubricant film decrease, but at the same time the likelihood of metal-metal contact increases.
Quote:
It is found that a friction reduction of about 8%can be achieved for the journal bearings using a 0W20 lubricant with a 3.6 mPa s HTHS-viscosity.A more common 0W20 oil with a HTHS-viscosity of 2.8 mPa s achieves the same friction reduction,but shows the presence of metal-metal contact for full load operation. This metal-metal contact might be able to be addressed by suitable additive technology of the lubricant or alternative surface technology for the shaft or bearing
More HTHS, more hydrodynamic film thickness, less occurrence of metal to metal contact.
Why spend time, $ and effort on 'suitable additive technology for lubricants' and 'alternative surface technology on materials' to tackle 'metal to metal contact phenomenon' .........
only to be negated by selecting lower viscosity/hths oils?
Originally Posted By: zeng
Why spend time, $ and effort on 'suitable additive technology for lubricants' and 'alternative surface technology on materials' to tackle 'metal to metal contact phenomenon' .........
only to be negated by selecting lower viscosity/hths oils?
Exactly !!
Why spend time, $ and effort on 'suitable additive technology for lubricants' and 'alternative surface technology on materials' to tackle 'metal to metal contact phenomenon' .........
only to be negated by selecting lower viscosity/hths oils?
Exactly !!
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