So maybe 0w20 isn't as great as it's made to be

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Well, the site is Bob is the Oil Guy after all, although I doubt that either oil quality or grade were involved in this failure.
Personally, I think that there must have been something wrong with the engine build to begin with. Were that not the case, Toyota would have denied warranty and asked who told the owner that he could put such big meats on a dainty little four banger Taco with fairly tall factory gearing.
If Toyota thought that the OP's mods caused the problem, then they wouldn't have warrantied the failure.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Well, the site is Bob is the Oil Guy after all, although I doubt that either oil quality or grade were involved in this failure.
Personally, I think that there must have been something wrong with the engine build to begin with. Were that not the case, Toyota would have denied warranty and asked who told the owner that he could put such big meats on a dainty little four banger Taco with fairly tall factory gearing.
If Toyota thought that the OP's mods caused the problem, then they wouldn't have warrantied the failure.


Back when I worked at a dealer as a Master Tech, we often saw mods that were the clear cause of the failure. Corporate still warranted the repair, in the name of good will.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Well, the site is Bob is the Oil Guy after all, although I doubt that either oil quality or grade were involved in this failure.
Personally, I think that there must have been something wrong with the engine build to begin with. Were that not the case, Toyota would have denied warranty and asked who told the owner that he could put such big meats on a dainty little four banger Taco with fairly tall factory gearing.
If Toyota thought that the OP's mods caused the problem, then they wouldn't have warrantied the failure.


I guess it would be up to the OPer to tell us how it all went down, but swapping tires is pretty trivial and I'd guess that armor isn't too hard to get off (??)...seems like it is very common to remove mods before taking the car back to the dealer under warranty.
Did a little googling and, yeah, those are hella big tires for that truck!
 
Originally Posted By: 02SE
This sounds like a scenario where the engine has been lugged excessively. Relatively low-powered engine, much larger and heavier tires, heavy armor, and a manual transmission. I can see where this truck would often be in too high of a gear for the load.


No lugging of the engine. I am fully aware of my situation which is why im bringing up these points and ive been driving manuals all my life. I usually dont use 5th and slip the clutch more than i normally would with other trucks from a stop just to avoid lugging. Also i shift at higher points to prevent the engine from getting too low in rpm. I am normally operating the engine in the 2-3.5k rpm range during my commutes which shouldnt be lugging.
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Well, the site is Bob is the Oil Guy after all, although I doubt that either oil quality or grade were involved in this failure.
Personally, I think that there must have been something wrong with the engine build to begin with. Were that not the case, Toyota would have denied warranty and asked who told the owner that he could put such big meats on a dainty little four banger Taco with fairly tall factory gearing.
If Toyota thought that the OP's mods caused the problem, then they wouldn't have warrantied the failure.


I guess it would be up to the OPer to tell us how it all went down, but swapping tires is pretty trivial and I'd guess that armor isn't too hard to get off (??)...seems like it is very common to remove mods before taking the car back to the dealer under warranty.
Did a little googling and, yeah, those are hella big tires for that truck!

No, took the truck in with everything on it and they warrantied it. I even asked if they thought the big tires were the issue which they said no to.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Clearances have not changed since the 40's.


Perhaps, but surface finish and asperities have improved. Those also come into play with specification of a lubricant and definition of the required film thickness.

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
+1 on factory defect.


Agreed. If we were talking 120k miles, you foukd argue the oil and/or user error. At 20k and one year, within the realm of the new car b2b warranty? Thats a quality issue.
 
Originally Posted By: 2000Trooper
Just curious, but wouldn't a factory defect take less than 20k miles to show up? Id imagine a defect on the crank or the bearings would lead to rapid deterioration


It depends upon the nature of the failure. If the bearings failed, was it due to babbitt failure due to faulty babbitt? Due to particles? What? If you oversped the engine due to a funky final ratio due to the tires, I could see it being an issue at any mileage. But many of these things do take time to come about. Stuff like coolant in the oil, intake leaks,etc. Its also why we often like to take a few used oil analyses early on in the vehicle's life.

Originally Posted By: 2000Trooper
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Boy did you open up a can of worms.
wink.gif
If were you I'd bump up it a grade too.
27.gif



Yes i did. Lol. But then most people arent turning 35 inch tires with several hundred pounds of armour


Well, does the mass of all that stuff, plus a tank of gas, plus you and a passenger put it over its weight rating? If the truck were overloaded, I could see there being an issue. But if theyre not denying the claim, then I guess they see it as OK.
 
Originally Posted By: 2000Trooper

No, took the truck in with everything on it and they warrantied it. I even asked if they thought the big tires were the issue which they said no to.


I commend you for your honesty, sir!
Hope your problem doesn't reoccur. I'd guess that something like a 5W30 isn't a bad idea for your application...
 
Originally Posted By: 2000Trooper
Originally Posted By: 02SE
This sounds like a scenario where the engine has been lugged excessively. Relatively low-powered engine, much larger and heavier tires, heavy armor, and a manual transmission. I can see where this truck would often be in too high of a gear for the load.


No lugging of the engine. I am fully aware of my situation which is why im bringing up these points and ive been driving manuals all my life. I usually dont use 5th and slip the clutch more than i normally would with other trucks from a stop just to avoid lugging. Also i shift at higher points to prevent the engine from getting too low in rpm. I am normally operating the engine in the 2-3.5k rpm range during my commutes which shouldnt be lugging.


Good to hear. I should've worded my reply so it was more obvious that I was just suggesting a possibility for the failure.

Manufacturing defects aren't unheard of either. I advised a neighbor recently that his ominous-sounding Hyundai Sonata engine was subject to recall, for improperly made crankshafts.
 
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I'm not buying the weight theory. Maximum engine torque at low engine speeds can occur just as easily with the minimum possible gross weight---although for shorter periods.

My Mazda spent a lot of time at low RPM near max torque for the speed, and never had any hint of bearing problems in 606K miles (albeit on mostly 10W-40).
 
I highly doubt 0w20 caused ur problems with your truck...manufacturing defect most likely
 
Yes, the 2016s have had a ton of issues compared to previous years. This may have been the first year of the new generation. But they will make it right and stand behind the product. As long as it looks decent on those big mudder tires then you're fine.
 
Originally Posted By: 2000Trooper
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Boy did you open up a can of worms.
wink.gif
If were you I'd bump up it a grade too.
27.gif



Yes i did. Lol. But then most people arent turning 35 inch tires with several hundred pounds of armour


... and you thought that this would still be okay running a 0w20 oil? You change the vehicle, you change the service regimen.
 
Is the moral of the story that the engine would be running just fine and not broken if 5W-30 oil was used? That seems preposterous. I can't believe 0W20 will cause the engine to blow up in 20k miles but 5W30 would have kept it purring along.

You got a bad engine and you want to blame the oil? Only on BITOG.
 
Originally Posted By: Leo99
Is the moral of the story that the engine would be running just fine and not broken if 5W-30 oil was used? That seems preposterous. I can't believe 0W20 will cause the engine to blow up in 20k miles but 5W30 would have kept it purring along.

You got a bad engine and you want to blame the oil? Only on BITOG.


Its possible the engine was bad or that it was the oil. I don't know. That's why i posted about it to get opinions, otherwise i would have just made the switch. Ive read on here and in other places about issues regarding metal to metal contact with 20wt oil though I'm not sure if that's [censored] info just floating on the web. I was fine putting in 0w20 toyota oil even at shorter intervals than recommended because i was getting it for 4.50 a quart. Can't beat that
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
These are the current recommendations for the 2TR-FE Hilux over in Australia:
31YzrQJ.png



Imagine that...........
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
5W30 is no good above 50F, but 10W30 is OK?
That's just weird...
True, but not as weird as 0W-20 being OK above 100°F on another continent in the same engine.
 
Since that chart is for the Australian market and given their explanation at the bottom im guessing they are implying there is no need for 5w30 unless you see very cold ambient temperatures which they do not see. I wonder if 5w30 is a difficult oil to find over there, with 10w30 and 15w40 being very common.
 
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