So... is there any bad oils??

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quote:

Originally posted by Blue_Goose:
Bill you understand that all of your work here does nothing for my not be able to get over the fact that I cannot buy Chevron here in New England.
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Thats strange, Walmarts in my area and CT have carried Chevron supreme, albeit not very much. It's usually on the top shelf, and they don't stock very much. Although i haven't checked recently, so it's possible that they stopped carrying it
 
I'm going with that 4.6 had 7K-10K OCI with
Chev10-30 and or when it was 1-2 qts low of the Chev10-30, the previous owner did not add any.

His description matches cars my daughters don't change oil on ever or add oil when they are down a qt or more. It does take awhile to get them back or clean.

I'm no Chevron apologist - the same would be true no matter what dino the prior owner used.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Bill in Utah:

quote:

Originally posted by 427Z06:
Thanks for sharing Bill. But that still doesn't prove what percentage of Chevron Supreme 10w30 is made with ISOSYN. Could be 51% ISOSYN and 49% Grp I/I+. Given that some producers use 10% Grp III in there blends and have no qualms about calling them synthetic blends, it's not a far stretch by any imagination.

Hi,

Does it really matter?
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Yes it may. Some people buy 10w30 dinos instead of 5w30 dinos because these think they're getting a more robust basestock and/or less VII even though their vehicle is spec'd for 5w30 (especially here in the South). And I already provided evidence in another thread that this isn't always true. It may be the case that Chevron Supreme 5w30 is even better than the 10w30.

So to retort your rant: I never said Chevron Supreme 10w30 is bad oil, so don't confuse my comments with those of Rodbuckler.

Enjoy!
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quote:

So to retort your rant: I never said Chevron Supreme 10w30 is bad oil, so don't confuse my comments with those of Rodbuckler.

Enjoy!
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I am sorry if it came off as a rant!
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I never confused your comments for Rodbuckler.
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(lack of sleep is never a good thing!
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)

Please accept my apology if I offended..
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Take care, bill
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quote:

Originally posted by m2200b:
I'm going with that 4.6 had 7K-10K OCI with
Chev10-30 and or when it was 1-2 qts low of the Chev10-30, the previous owner did not add any.

His description matches cars my daughters don't change oil on ever or add oil when they are down a qt or more. It does take awhile to get them back or clean.

I'm no Chevron apologist - the same would be true no matter what dino the prior owner used.


I think we would both agree if they used dino or syn, being 1-2 quarts low at the end of a 7-10k oci is NOT a good thing.

With ANY oil!
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But I agree that it was not Chevron that did any damage.

And I'm still waiting for the answer on what Syn oil "fixed"
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his problems in 20k miles after Chevron so damaged his engine....
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Take care, Bill
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quote:

Originally posted by schwartr88:
Why would you consider wolfs head a **** oil? I havent even seen a bottle of it in at least 10 years, but it was supposed to be good back in the day.

wolf head used to be a good oil.i have not seen any in a long time but back in the late 60's and 70's it was a good oil and a lot of people used it.
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If you want a bad oil try getting Valuecraft API service SF grade oil. There is even a warning on the bottle that says that the oil will cause sludging. I was going to ask the mechanic why he sells that obsolete oil but he would probably have said that you are supposed to change oil every 3000 miles so why should he worry about sludging.
 
And if you want a really bad oil try gettin Raylube API service SA grade non detergent oil. A buddy of mine runs it in his truck and has this big theory about how a detergent oil will eat up his seals. He always used to tell me that synthetic oil was junk but I got him back by installing some synthetic gear lube in his wifes car and she was so happy because her gear box shifted better.
 
And now that we are talking about bad oil. Back in the day it was bad chainsaw oil that drove me crazy because it was mixed at the super rich 16 to 1 ratio and produced a cloud of blue smoke that made me gag. When i suggested a 100 to 1 synthetic oil everyone though I was nuts and said that I would burn up the engine. Modern day chainsaw oils are pretty good with smokeless ashless formulations and 50 to 1 mix ratios.
 
Bill you understand that all of your work here does nothing for my not be able to get over the fact that I cannot buy Chevron here in New England.
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Thank you for once again bringing me down
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I was actually able to pick it up off of the shelf when I was in Warner Robins, GA over the weekend....even at 1.76 at Walmart it is a great deal. But alas no way to get it to my abode in NH
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Ok I'm over it
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(sorta)


I think you pretty much nailed it with that explanation
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Goose
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"Chevron 10W-30 is a bad oil" Not true. It could be that the shop didn't actually change the oil and filter, just took the money. Other malfeasance is possible, but Chevron Supreme is one of the better oils.

Wolf's Head was Pennzoil-Quaker St. Corp's lowest quality oil, and this continued when these were all Shell's brands. WH has recently been sold to Amalie oil.


Ken
 
I used to run the chevron 10w/30 with no problems, I think if they priced an oil, say wolfs head, higher people would buy more of it and have confidence in it. A friend of mine had his cam in a volvo p1800 quit on valvolone, he trusts wolfs head more than valvoline, ran wolfs head when it was at wallyworld a few years ago, its all piece of mind i guess.
 
PO's of my engine used a shop near the man's business for their service that had Chevron 10W-30 bulk dino. The wife drove the Mustang up and down I95. Although I still give it a D grade for the coked rings and bottom end, I will say that the Chevron bulk 10W-30 only allowed a very light coating of varnish on the top end. In fact I couldn't really see it on my inspection at purchase. I think they stuck to a good maintenance schedule except for the air filter near the end of their ownership. It's a very nice car.

Hirev: I will measure the bores and ring gaps when I take this engine apart in a couple of years from now. But for now I can influence both the oil consumption and fuel mileage with oil viscosity, so I know the rings and/or bore have been worn.

Bill in Utah: I wish I had your air and driving conditions for my engines. Conditions here are brutal, and my driving doesn't help any. I have never seen conventional oil take care of an engine I have owned or bought. I switched to stiff Mobil 1 blends and full-synthetics long ago. These oils work for the long run and are worth the money.

The magic engine-curing oil is just M1 mixed with some HDEO. I couldn't believe the amount of carbon and hunks-o'lacquer released into the drain pan. That has stopped and my oil consumption is 1qt in 1700miles with 5W-20, and about 1qt in 2500miles with medium 30weight oils. I should polish off my cleaning effort with an ARX treatment (I didn't know it existed until recently).

I hope I didn't offend anyone with the revelation of my experiences. But they are what they are. BTW I also give M1 10W-30 a D grade (BAD) for noise, harshness, and leaking. It's the oil that gives all synthetics a bad name, and they need to fix it SOON! It gets a D despite the acceptable wear and good engine cleanliness. I have used many, many gallons of it as a blend oil, but by itself in the crankcase it makes me nothing less than furious.
 
My vote for a "bad" oil, is any one that you don't change in a timely manner.

I recall a Police Interceptor, that was a take-home vehicle. Officer was just grossly negligent, and did not take the car in for it's scheduled changes. IIRC, the motor was using oil, which actually is allowed for per Ford, even with low miles.

Engine seized at 16K, with about a qt.& 1/2th of 5-30 sludge in it. I was told that the dipstick could not be removed.
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quote:

Originally posted by Rob Taggs:
I've had all types of vehicles and the only make that ate oil were Fords. All others never ate oil between oil changes. *.....abbreviated....}

I'm not a Ford hater but, something is up when you use the exact same oil on different makes and in the end only one gulps oil like it is going out of style.


Very interesting observation. From 1995-1998, I had a 351 v-8 Ford Bronco that was so unreliable, I had to have a cell phone with me every time I stepped in to drive somewhere.

Each time I managed to get out of the Driveway, I felt like buying LOTTO.

But strangely, one of the very few bad things it did NOT do was, burn/consume oil. Equally strangely, all the gaskets were drum-tight. My driveway was spotlessly clean and white. It did not leak a single drop of oil. (Could this have something to do with the fact that I used monograde dino HD-30, instead of the more commonly used multigrade 10w-30?)

But none of that is relevant. That truck was the biggest 4-wheeled loser I ever had anything to do with. After that, it was NIX to Fords for this boy.

I only bought it because I lived in a high-crime neighborhood at the time, and my truck was the only set of wheels on the block that would not be stolen while I slept at night.
 
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