I use Esso XD-3 0w30 in my Ariens Snowblower with a 7hp Robin Subaru engine. I think it works well in the frigid temperatures we have in Saskatchewan. In fact, I use Esso XD-3 in all my outdoor equipment, lawnmower, pressure washer, etc.
Snowblower Oil Recommendation
- Thread starter weebl
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The Rotella 5W40 would be a great oil for the engine under operating conditions (or any other outdoor equipment for that matter). It's the cold starting conditions where GC or XD3 0W30 would be better suited. By all means if XD3 0W30 is available to you put that on your list too.
This is not to say that a 5W oil is bad, it's all there was before 0W oils were released, but in a snowthrower you can use all the help you can get when starting in really cold temps.
This is not to say that a 5W oil is bad, it's all there was before 0W oils were released, but in a snowthrower you can use all the help you can get when starting in really cold temps.
I picked up a bottle of GC from WM last night. Based on the suggestions here, I will do a change now while it's still warm with my Havoline 5w30, idle for 15 minutes, check oil colour, and repeat as needed if oil is black. Then on the final change, I'll put in my GC. I could have just as easily gone with the XD-3, but the GC was easier to source as WM is a 5 minute drive from me, and I don't know where to find XD-3 (don't think the retail Essos carry it).
Thanks for the guidance. I still wouldn't mind exploring the HDEO option for the future, though.
Thanks for the guidance. I still wouldn't mind exploring the HDEO option for the future, though.
Blowing snow is a huge issue where I am, and that can occur at any temperature, and can turn a foot of snow into 4-5 feet within hours.
Here are some tips regarding snow-blowers that I saved from another post.
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DO NOT over power the Machine. Clutches, belts and transmission parts were designed for the 10 HP the Techumpseh delivers. If you happen to find another higher powered engine with the same base to center of crank height, and install it, you may end up burning out trans or auger gears, or shearing off bolts and keys, due to the excess power. Putting a more powerful engine on the blower will not make it digest snow any faster. It can only process so much snow in a given amount of time. Remember, if snow is more than 1/2 the barrel height, you MUST go at a slower rate of forward speed, to allow the machine to process the load. If you try to go too fast, you will only jamb the chute, and possibly snap shear pins in the auger assembly. Let the machine do the work.
Other tips: Use 5w30 oil in engines stored in cold locations. CHECK THE OIL every time you add fuel to the tank. Snow blowers run flat out full time, and burn oil, even if you do not see smoke! 90% of snow machines I have seen with blown engines have low oil as a direct cause of engine failure. Spray the barrel and chute with WD-40 or PAM cooking spray before use. This will help keep wet snow from clogging the chute!
STOP the engine before clearing a jammed chute. DON"T use your hands to clear the chute. We have an average of at least 10 calls each winter for amputated or mangled digits because "I was just going to move it a little bit". Use an old broomstick, or check with your local mower shop - they sell chute clearing tools.
After starting the engine, let it warm up a minute or 2 before hitting the snow. This will allow more effeceint use of fuel, and allow oil to get where it needs to before critically loading the engine. it also allows excess cold clearances to adjust. After the blowing session is over, set engine to idle for at least 2 minutes. This allows engine surface temps to cool and stabilize evenly. It will save on wear and rear on the engine, and melt snow off the engine. Clear the barrel and auger chute after use, AFTER stopping the engine! This will prevent freezing in the chute and make the machine ready for the next use. Nothing like trying to clear ice out of the chute while snow is piling up! Make sure to keep fresh fuel in the tank, and REFILL after every use. Again, CHECK THE OIL! Keeping the tank full, will prevent condensation from forming, and causing icing of the carb fuel bowl later on.
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While this recomends 5w30, the 0w30 of GC and the better shear resistance of GC makes GC a better choice.
I think the tip about lubing the chute with WD-40 or PAM is a real good idea. I would chose PAM.
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DO NOT over power the Machine. Clutches, belts and transmission parts were designed for the 10 HP the Techumpseh delivers. If you happen to find another higher powered engine with the same base to center of crank height, and install it, you may end up burning out trans or auger gears, or shearing off bolts and keys, due to the excess power. Putting a more powerful engine on the blower will not make it digest snow any faster. It can only process so much snow in a given amount of time. Remember, if snow is more than 1/2 the barrel height, you MUST go at a slower rate of forward speed, to allow the machine to process the load. If you try to go too fast, you will only jamb the chute, and possibly snap shear pins in the auger assembly. Let the machine do the work.
Other tips: Use 5w30 oil in engines stored in cold locations. CHECK THE OIL every time you add fuel to the tank. Snow blowers run flat out full time, and burn oil, even if you do not see smoke! 90% of snow machines I have seen with blown engines have low oil as a direct cause of engine failure. Spray the barrel and chute with WD-40 or PAM cooking spray before use. This will help keep wet snow from clogging the chute!
STOP the engine before clearing a jammed chute. DON"T use your hands to clear the chute. We have an average of at least 10 calls each winter for amputated or mangled digits because "I was just going to move it a little bit". Use an old broomstick, or check with your local mower shop - they sell chute clearing tools.
After starting the engine, let it warm up a minute or 2 before hitting the snow. This will allow more effeceint use of fuel, and allow oil to get where it needs to before critically loading the engine. it also allows excess cold clearances to adjust. After the blowing session is over, set engine to idle for at least 2 minutes. This allows engine surface temps to cool and stabilize evenly. It will save on wear and rear on the engine, and melt snow off the engine. Clear the barrel and auger chute after use, AFTER stopping the engine! This will prevent freezing in the chute and make the machine ready for the next use. Nothing like trying to clear ice out of the chute while snow is piling up! Make sure to keep fresh fuel in the tank, and REFILL after every use. Again, CHECK THE OIL! Keeping the tank full, will prevent condensation from forming, and causing icing of the carb fuel bowl later on.
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While this recomends 5w30, the 0w30 of GC and the better shear resistance of GC makes GC a better choice.
I think the tip about lubing the chute with WD-40 or PAM is a real good idea. I would chose PAM.
Originally Posted By: weebl
An issue where I am too. Where are you located, Smokescreen? I'm in Edmonton.
PM sent
An issue where I am too. Where are you located, Smokescreen? I'm in Edmonton.
PM sent
In addition to all of the tips above, look into the "Clarence Impeller Kit". It completely transformed my old Toro. It had large impeller clearances from the factory and would jam the chute on all kinds of different types of wet snow/slush that we see a lot of here.
Post-kit I haven't had a single jam and the machine out-throws everything on the street, even the 11+hp units.
Post-kit I haven't had a single jam and the machine out-throws everything on the street, even the 11+hp units.
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
In addition to all of the tips above, look into the "Clarence Impeller Kit". It completely transformed my old Toro. It had large impeller clearances from the factory and would jam the chute on all kinds of different types of wet snow/slush that we see a lot of here.
Post-kit I haven't had a single jam and the machine out-throws everything on the street, even the 11+hp units.
I just installed one of these kits in my 7hp 24" Ariens Sno Thro. I'm hoping it improves the performance of the machine.
And, I'm a big fan of GC for snoblower use. Seems like the perfect fit.
In addition to all of the tips above, look into the "Clarence Impeller Kit". It completely transformed my old Toro. It had large impeller clearances from the factory and would jam the chute on all kinds of different types of wet snow/slush that we see a lot of here.
Post-kit I haven't had a single jam and the machine out-throws everything on the street, even the 11+hp units.
I just installed one of these kits in my 7hp 24" Ariens Sno Thro. I'm hoping it improves the performance of the machine.
And, I'm a big fan of GC for snoblower use. Seems like the perfect fit.
Originally Posted By: gd9704
I just installed one of these kits in my 7hp 24" Ariens Sno Thro. I'm hoping it improves the performance of the machine.
In my case I was mostly interested in not plugging the chute on many types of heavy, wet snow. It was a real problem ever since the machine was new and we pretty much never get significant amounts of light, fluffy snow where I am - only sopping wet plus freezing rain. Any extra throw distance was a bonus.
I just installed one of these kits in my 7hp 24" Ariens Sno Thro. I'm hoping it improves the performance of the machine.
In my case I was mostly interested in not plugging the chute on many types of heavy, wet snow. It was a real problem ever since the machine was new and we pretty much never get significant amounts of light, fluffy snow where I am - only sopping wet plus freezing rain. Any extra throw distance was a bonus.
Good tip about the blower modification. Of every review I had read about them (there are so many on the site and elsewhere) not one person was disappointed after the install. One caveat though is to check your clearances between the blower "blades" and the inside housing. If it is less that 1/8" you might not see a huge improvement with this mod.
I would go with pp 10w30 or 10w40 or rp 10w40 which if i'm correct (correct me if im wrong would most likely shear to a thicker 30w. On the other hand the 5w40 idea didnt sound bad. I like the idea of going just alittle thicker until I get feel (unscientificly) for how tight a motor is. Careful changing the spark plug to the heads are soft it seems on tecumsehs.
One of the things to keep in mind is that when many of the oil recommendations that people are referring to were written SL or even an earlier oil standard was being use that had much higher ZDDP amount than current SM oils.
Off the shelf 5w30 may of been fine for a 15 year old engine 15 years ago. But the standard 5w30 on the shelf today without enough ZDDP could cause damage to that engine.
Off the shelf 5w30 may of been fine for a 15 year old engine 15 years ago. But the standard 5w30 on the shelf today without enough ZDDP could cause damage to that engine.
Also many of the internal parts on OPE engines used today are the same as they were 15 years ago. So even if it a newer engine SM may still be a problem.
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I tweak the oil with RL Break In Oil Additive, to give it an extra shot of ZDDP.
...well then lucky the Rotella I am going to use is SJ rated..
Update on the snowblower. I finally got around to doing the oil change today. Actually, it's in the middle of the last stage right now, left the drain plug off while I'm waiting for everything to drip out. I wanted a good flush, since the previous owner admitted to only once changing the oil and spark plug the entire time he had it.
I used my old 5w30 Havoline for the flush procedure. Turns out it was so old, it has an API rating of SG, SH, SJ. Still have a bit left, and it'll likely make it's way into my lawnmower.
First, I drained whatever was in the crankcase, and it was black as ink. Got whatever I could out, though that stuff looked nasty and I'm sure there was residue. Filled to full line on the dipstick with the Havoline. Also changed out the old spark plug (the one in there wasn't a spec'd one), though it wasn't too bad with only a little carbon on it. Went to start, and it was a [censored]. Took about 10 minutes of just giving her. I let it run until hot, then shut it down.
Second, drained the first of the changes. Came out just as black as what was in there except it was a lot thinner (obviously). Refilled again with the Havoline, and ran again until hot.
Third, drained the second change of oil, and it came out close in colour to virgin, so I knew I was nearly done the flush. Refilled one last time with Havoline. This time, I really let her run. Put away a bunch of things I had out from doing other chores while it ran. Probably about 15 minutes of run time.
Last, I drained the oil. Slightly darker than virgin, so I'm sure the longer run really helped to rid of the [censored] in there. It's still draining, though I'm not really waiting for anymore oil, just got sidetracked to other things and haven't come around quite yet to finish off. Once the drain plug goes back on, this fill will be GC, ready for the winter season.
I used my old 5w30 Havoline for the flush procedure. Turns out it was so old, it has an API rating of SG, SH, SJ. Still have a bit left, and it'll likely make it's way into my lawnmower.
First, I drained whatever was in the crankcase, and it was black as ink. Got whatever I could out, though that stuff looked nasty and I'm sure there was residue. Filled to full line on the dipstick with the Havoline. Also changed out the old spark plug (the one in there wasn't a spec'd one), though it wasn't too bad with only a little carbon on it. Went to start, and it was a [censored]. Took about 10 minutes of just giving her. I let it run until hot, then shut it down.
Second, drained the first of the changes. Came out just as black as what was in there except it was a lot thinner (obviously). Refilled again with the Havoline, and ran again until hot.
Third, drained the second change of oil, and it came out close in colour to virgin, so I knew I was nearly done the flush. Refilled one last time with Havoline. This time, I really let her run. Put away a bunch of things I had out from doing other chores while it ran. Probably about 15 minutes of run time.
Last, I drained the oil. Slightly darker than virgin, so I'm sure the longer run really helped to rid of the [censored] in there. It's still draining, though I'm not really waiting for anymore oil, just got sidetracked to other things and haven't come around quite yet to finish off. Once the drain plug goes back on, this fill will be GC, ready for the winter season.
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