Silverado Maintenance Advice

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Western PA
Have '99 Silverado 2500 I bought new from dealer. I am currently coming up on 40K miles. Nobody else drives it, and between it, the Buick, motorcycle and rental cars when travelling out of town, it just doesn't get used much. I was planning to trade it at 15 years (this September) but personal economy says no.

Always did the old-school 3K OCI, sometimes stretched to 4K until I started driving it less when gas hit $3.50, now do annual OCI because of short trips and concern of condensation. Always serviced at local shop except for 2009 oil change with Amsoil, which I really loved. Never had such easy cold starts (0 deg F in winter) in my life. At last oil change this spring, I had them put in the (recommended) BG MOA. A couple weeks later I noticed the oil pressure was trending somewhat higher than usual. For 13 years, always fluctuated around 40 PSI at idle, then higher with higher RPM. Now well over 40 (close to 60) and nearly 80 on highway acceleration. Looked at service slip, and noticed they charged for 6 quarts oil plus 1 quart of BG MOA. Checked dipstick, and it was somewhat above the full mark. Is this a dangerous overfill?

After debating the merits, and looking at a lot of articles here, I decided to do my own change. Put in Super Tech 5w30 with a P1 filter. Got very particular to fill precisely to full mark, nothing more. Pressure now looks a bit more normal but still a little higher than before, but since I know it's not overfilled, I'm not worried.

Here is a list of things I have done in the last couple months on warm days: Change fluids in front and rear differential (M1 75w90), changed transfer case fluid(Castrol Dex III), above mentioned oil change. Changed power steering cooler after catastrophic failure in driveway.

My plans include transmission drain, filter change and fill and coolant flush, but not until weather breaks.

I think of doing a brake fluid change but the rust on the bleeders (if I'm looking at the right things) is scary. I live in the rust belt, and have had 4 brake lines changed due to bursting through the rust. Happily, it happened in the shop when getting e-brake cable changed. Is there a preferred method of brake bleeding/flushing on this truck? Can I do it myself or should I let the shop do this?

Sorry about long post. Thanks (in advance) for your help!
 
Not a dangerous overfill.

What is BG MOA?

I'm not sure about touching the bleeders if they are rusted in place. On the good side the fluid has been changed (somewhat) by the new lines. But if the bleeders are stuck, and you want new pads, I dunno, I'd probably leave it to those who can change brake lines--that is outside of my abilities. If it was me I'd look at the condition of the rotors and think about replacing; I would mic them to make sure they are not worn. They should not be--but my rotors rust heavily on for a daily driver.

I'd crawl around under, look for rust patches, think about sanding and painting the worst spots. Then if you want to keep for a few more years I'd oil coat it, so as to keep rust at bay.
 
Spray some PB blaster or other competing spray penetration on the bleeders and see if they'll slowly loosen. I'd definitely recommend flushing out the brake fluid after this long.

All around fluid change sounds good too.
 
I think it would be a shame to get rid of a well-maintained old truck now. You're at the bottom on resale value. Keep it another ten years and it will go up in value.

I agree it would be good to flush the brake fluid. If the bleeders won't break free, new wheel cylinders and rebuilt calipers are pretty cheap.
 
I have the same truck. Z71 with a 5.3.
I have 270k+ on mine though. I use mos2 in the oil. Gained me 100 km per tank of fuel which is 1km per litre.
I just can't bring myself to selling it.
 
Rotors are the biggest bugaboo for me. I swear you can stand still on a humid day and watch the rust form. I was thinking of doing rotors myself this year as I can see deep pits and the shiny part of the rotor (swept area?) is only half the radial distance of the pads. I can feel reduced braking compared to 4 years ago when new. Thing is, the rotor I can probably do, but as you imply, if I run into trouble (break bleeder, snap a line) I am up that certain creek without a paddle, and then need a pro. Looking about $600 to have 4 rotors done, I think. I was thinking of replacing calipers and pads too, then getting real picky about maintenance on the brakes, but I really don't know what that involves. Need a good book. Haynes? Chilton? Service manual?

I crawled under a lot more than I ever thought I would doing the diff fluid changes and more recently the oil. The guys at the shop I go to always tell me it looks worse than it really is, but I get skeptical when I look at the rust that fall off the A-arms and tie rods, etc if I tap them with a wrench. The frame itself look pretty good, the worst of it is the suspension. The body is flawless, even the underside of the bed. Only cosmetic rust at all is the bottom of the inside of the doors. Will work on that when warm weather gets here. Wire brush, sand, rust converter, primer, paint and clearcoat. Woohoo!
 
Originally Posted By: Scooby
Need to do pump rub fix.

Google Chevrolet Silverado transfer case pump rub


Think I saw this on TV. How much does this cost? DIY-friendly or specialist only? Dealer only or good shop?

I have less than 40K on truck, but use a lot of 4wd in winter, especially this year.
 
Originally Posted By: tightwad
I think it would be a shame to get rid of a well-maintained old truck now. You're at the bottom on resale value. Keep it another ten years and it will go up in value.

I agree it would be good to flush the brake fluid. If the bleeders won't break free, new wheel cylinders and rebuilt calipers are pretty cheap.


My thoughts exactly. Under 40K miles it's mostly like new but not worth anything on trade. If I put in $3000 for brakes, tires, fluids and rusty suspension bits, I'm good another ten years and it's about the same as four payments on a brand new truck!
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Melman
Originally Posted By: Scooby
Need to do pump rub fix.

Google Chevrolet Silverado transfer case pump rub


Think I saw this on TV. How much does this cost? DIY-friendly or specialist only? Dealer only or good shop?

I have less than 40K on truck, but use a lot of 4wd in winter, especially this year.


You can DIY, just have to drop transfer case and split it. Many vendors have the kits, not sure on price. Still havent done it on mine. I've only got 43k on my 2006.
 
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