Significant drop in MPG with AC on. Normal or something wrong?

Did the ac repair include any compressor work? compressor load can have a big impact if failing or having issues. I had a whining compressor once that was almost seizing and putting heavy load on the engine. The car is old so I just took the compressor out of the loop.
 
I have had some 4-cyl cars in the past that had a noticeable power drop when the AC was in use. I never bothered to try and determine the impact to fuel economy, but I am sure it would have been noticeable. For something like my Ram 2500, the AC does not seem to have an impact at all.

If the AC is blowing cold and the engine seems to run well I would just run it and see how it does over the next few tanks.
 
One more thing I just noticed. I drove around for a bit and checked my OBD. My long term fuel trim is at negative 7%. I've never seen that before. I recently addressed high positive fuel trim and it had been close to 0 for a few weeks. I wonder what that could be about. Sorry to throw so many things out there, but I really appreciate the feedback.
Sound like small fuel injector leak?
 
Did the ac repair include any compressor work? compressor load can have a big impact if failing or having issues. I had a whining compressor once that was almost seizing and putting heavy load on the engine. The car is old so I just took the compressor out of the loop.

Did the ac repair include any compressor work? compressor load can have a big impact if failing or having issues. I had a whining compressor once that was almost seizing and putting heavy load on the engine. The car is old so I just took the compressor out of the loop.
New compressor installed. Old one was shot.
 
I hope the new compressor is good. It's a four seasons, brand new, and it definitely works. Maybe not super cold, but I don't know what to compare it to.
 
I think there are too many variables in your all city, lots of idling driving to attribute all of the observed MPG change to just the new compressor.

But fix your tire inflation while you get more data points.
 
I think there are too many variables in your all city, lots of idling driving to attribute all of the observed MPG change to just the new compressor.

But fix your tire inflation while you get more data points.
You're probably right. I'll report back if a trend develops.
 
Could it be overcharged? It's not very cold. My mechanic said it wasn't very cold when he fixed it and said it was because I used cheap r-134a. I don't know if I buy that. If overcharged, it would explain the tank in MPG and the noticeable lack of power. Also, my new cabin air filter is bent up in there, but the always do that (this is my third one). Could that have anything to do with it not being cold? It was 90 today and my AC was just slightly better than nothing. Any thoughts?
 
I have had some 4-cyl cars in the past that had a noticeable power drop when the AC was in use. I never bothered to try and determine the impact to fuel economy, but I am sure it would have been noticeable. For something like my Ram 2500, the AC does not seem to have an impact at all.

If the AC is blowing cold and the engine seems to run well I would just run it and see how it does over the next few tanks.

In old days, most 4-cyl cars didn't come with factory air.
if you wanted air, you buy a 6 or 8-cyl. :)
 
Did the old compressor cycle on and off when the AC was on and is the new compressor doing that?
I can't tell. Seems like it's running all the time. It has a control valve rather than a standard clutch. I can't see if it's running because the pulley is one piece and spins all the time.
 
I can't tell. Seems like it's running all the time. It has a control valve rather than a standard clutch. I can't see if it's running because the pulley is one piece and spins all the time.

I asked because my experience with Japanese cars is that they cycle on and off rather than just being on all the time. That obviously helps with fuel economy.

I’m just wondering if something didn’t get connected properly?
 
I asked because my experience with Japanese cars is that they cycle on and off rather than just being on all the time. That obviously helps with fuel economy.

I’m just wondering if something didn’t get connected properly?
There are only two (electrical) connections I know of. I'm sure they're fine, or it wouldn't work. How cold should AC be? I feel like it should be capable of being so cold, I'd need to turn it down sometimes, but on max for an hour, my cabin is maybe 15 degrees cooler than outside.
 
There are only two (electrical) connections I know of. I'm sure they're fine, or it wouldn't work. How cold should AC be? I feel like it should be capable of being so cold, I'd need to turn it down sometimes, but on max for an hour, my cabin is maybe 15 degrees cooler than outside.


That depends on the vehicle. I would think the AC mechanic can test the temperature coming out of the vents. It’s a good question too because if your car has auto climate control then you will have a temperature sensor inside somewhere.

I set mine to 66F year round unless it gets really cold. If your AC is dropping the temp inside by 15 degrees that sounds warm, especially if it’s 90 or more outside.
 
That depends on the vehicle. I would think the AC mechanic can test the temperature coming out of the vents. It’s a good question too because if your car has auto climate control then you will have a temperature sensor inside somewhere.

I set mine to 66F year round unless it gets really cold. If your AC is dropping the temp inside by 15 degrees that sounds warm, especially if it’s 90 or more outside.
My car only measures outside temp. I'll put a thermometer in the vent and see what I get.
 
1.8 engine? My wife's 2010 non-GT would average about 22 with almost all city driving in the summer.

If this is a 1.8, do check the belt. Ours didn't have a tensioner--it was tightened the old school way at the alternator bracket.
 
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