show me your Dino oil engine pics please

[wemay]

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/faq.php

Q. Come on, you're holding out on me. I should use synthetic, right?

A. Buddy, you should use whatever you want. Synthetic oil won't guarantee a longer engine life any more than my eating organic food will guarantee I'll live until I'm 90. We here at Blackstone generally use regular petroleum-based oil because honestly, it works just as well for us.

^
Of coarse, many variables are missing from this very general recommendation but if the specs your vehicle recommends can be had with a conventional, I think you can trust your Owner's Manual and the guys that have been testing used oil for years.

 

[demarpaint]

Sayjac nailed it with the "To each their own" comment. My observations of dino's ablilty to keep things clean in the 2000 Century application was not impressive. It could be how the vehicle was used, the engine itself, etc. etc. finding excuses would be very easy for me. My father's use was very similar to how we now use the vehicle. For me continuing with dino oil would have only made the situation worse. Synthetic and 5K OCI's are what I'm doing now and I will continue to do so. As always opinions vary.

 

[Clevy]

The reason I use synthetic oil is because I buy it on sale when the cost is either comparable or cheaper than conventional.
This cuts my cost per mile in half. I admit I like to tinker and a decade ago before I became an Amsoil fanatic everything I had that had an engine got the least expensive oil I could find and I changed it out when the oil was blackened and smelled of fuel.
Today I run a 10k interval unless I've hot cause to shorten it somewhat.
I read about synthetic oil and their consistent sized molecules and whatnot. Then I read about how PAO isn't polar and therefore leaves little to no oil film at shutdown.
But conventionals are polar which means they are attracted to the engines metal parts,and then that molecule thing again which makes me think about metal in general and machining techniques,and maybe those consistent molecules AREN'T such a good thing considering the machined metals aren't perfectly flat and have hills and valleys which those inconsistent sized molecules might fill in the gaps better and thus reduce friction and consumption because of it.
Then once I've thought myself into nearly an aneurysm I then consider the most important variable of all. The one that truly matters the most...... Cost per mile.
And that my friends will be synthetic every time.
Why you may ask?
Because I buy only on sale oil. I can't remember the last time I paid full price for a jug of oil.
There was a time I was brand loyal. Today I'm cash loyal. Everything on the shelf has a comparable counterpart if a different brand and one of them is on sale somewhere.
So I'm always mixing brands and grades because when I'm stocking up I buy whatever is on sale that week. And I won't buy 30 grades. I'll mix a 20 and a 40 because I'll stock both depending on the season.
Heresy I know but when I inspect thru the fill hole will my Milwaukee inspection camera the top end is always clean,so I'm doing something right.
Add to that my vehicles get driven til they turn to rust,or dust,and you'll understand why I do what I do.
I'm loyal to money and I want to keep mine in my pocket. That means I do as much vehicle maintenance as is fiscally responsible and I keep my vehicles until they get called back to heaven.

 

[Clevy]

Hey Guys.


I don't think Tig meant anything derogatory by the real value comment.
Not that I'm speaking for you Tig
I think what he meant by it is that for only a few pennies more you can use a better product,which could mean a longer life which if your a guy like me who keeps them til they die a synthetic oil could potential add value in longer life.
That's what I inferred from his comment anyway.

Tig isn't the passive aggressive type. He'll call a spade a spade so I think we may be misinterpreting his comment.

Again I'm not trying to speak for Tig,just that I think we aren't getting his exact meaning is all.

 

[fdcg27]

The PT would do fine on the least costly API SL/SM/SN you can find.
It may not be any cheaper than synthetic, though.
Here's why:
There are always deals on synthetic oil.
I added two jugs of M1 to the stash at $10.00 each after MIR as well as some QSUD and PP and Ultra that ended up free after MIR after stacking other promos.
If you were maintaining a fleet, this wouldn't work since your use of oil would exceed your ability to stock up on deals and MIRs wouldn't work very well for a commerical user.
For somebody maintaining only his own vehicles, though, syn can always be bought cheaply enough that there is no cost advantage in using conventional.

 

[demarpaint]

Clevy good point about buying oil on sale, that's something I take for granted. I thought all loyal Bitog'ers bought the sales, and occasionally [FAR] oil. I don't ever remember paying full pop for oil. Someone always has oil on sale, and with some patience and cash you can build a nice synthetic oil stash, so you're never caught paying full pop.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Hey Guys.


I don't think Tig meant anything derogatory by the real value comment.
Not that I'm speaking for you Tig
I think what he meant by it is that for only a few pennies more you can use a better product,which could mean a longer life which if your a guy like me who keeps them til they die a synthetic oil could potential add value in longer life.
That's what I inferred from his comment anyway.

Tig isn't the passive aggressive type. He'll call a spade a spade so I think we may be misinterpreting his comment.

Again I'm not trying to speak for Tig,just that I think we aren't getting his exact meaning is all.


Looking back at the countless posts from tig, I would agree. It came across that way when I first read it but I could surely be wrong and think I may have been.

 

[wemay]

Clevy, this week I bought a large amount of synthetic MAG 1 for $1.80 / qt. Your view on cost per mile is very relevant and makes for 'a best of both worlds' scenario. But for those who shop when needed and not like us (stash), it may not be as important when the everyday price of conventional, that meets spec, can be purchased at will.

 

[ram_man]

Since synthetic isn't truly synthetic anymore though is it worth it I can get mobil super 5000 for 13 bucks vs 26 for Mobil 1 this is of course at regular price.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: ram_man
Since synthetic isn't truly synthetic anymore

Stop right there. This is technically true, but ultimately misleading.

These days, "synthetic" mainly just means "high end." That might be different from what it used to mean, but the advantage is still there.

 

[dlundblad]

If folks prefer to run dino, but worry about varnish, would it hurt to run a quality synthetic every 4th (or so) oil change? Synthetic, dino, dino, synthetic, dino, dino etc. I would think if there was any cleaning to be done, the synthetic would most certainly do it. Buy whatever quality oil is on sale and go with it!

Sayjac's pics look great IMO so I personally don't see a need. Dino seems to be just fine if used correctly.

 

[hpb]

I'd use whatever is cheapest and meets the specs for the PT. You've already said your wife hates the car, I'm surprised she even cares what oil goes in it? And it uses lots of oil anyway, so yeah, no point burning up the expensive stuff.

As for the Focus, I'd stick with synthetic. Realistically, what're you going to save by using cheaper oil, 20 bucks a year? Not worth it in my opinion, especially for a car you plan to keep for a long time.

 

[wemay]

So are we saying that if you plan on keeping a car a long time, synthetic is the only option?

 

[hpb]

Nope, not saying synthetic is the only option, it's what I'd use though. No scientific reason whatsoever!

 

[ThirdeYe]

This was after about 121,000 miles of conventional between the years of 1994 and 2007 on my '95 Integra. 5,000 mile/6 month OCIs by the previous owner using dealership bulk dino 5W-30:

It's still just as clean, though I've used mostly synthetics since then (at 5k intervals, usually).

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
If folks prefer to run dino, but worry about varnish, would it hurt to run a quality synthetic every 4th (or so) oil change? Synthetic, dino, dino, synthetic, dino, dino etc. I would think if there was any cleaning to be done, the synthetic would most certainly do it. Buy whatever quality oil is on sale and go with it!

Sayjac's pics look great IMO so I personally don't see a need. Dino seems to be just fine if used correctly.


This is pretty much what ends up happening with me. Not necessarily planned out but the end result.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
If folks prefer to run dino, but worry about varnish, would it hurt to run a quality synthetic every 4th (or so) oil change? Synthetic, dino, dino, synthetic, dino, dino etc. I would think if there was any cleaning to be done, the synthetic would most certainly do it. Buy whatever quality oil is on sale and go with it!

Sayjac's pics look great IMO so I personally don't see a need. Dino seems to be just fine if used correctly.


This is pretty much what ends up happening with me. Not necessarily planned out but the end result.


I am thinking about doing this with my moms Elantra. I am still a bit skeptical of running dino passed 5000 so it'll be PYB at 5000 then PP at 7500 every few changes with a TG or Ultra filter if I can get one on sale at AAP

 

[wemay]

Sounds like a good plan to me.

 

[285south]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad

You went 6500-9000 mile OCIs on dino with one run being 11.3k? Am I reading this right?


Yes you have read that correct.

Noe I'll go back and read the other 2 pages.

 

[KitaCam]

The Kitacam after 100k miles on 5w-30 dino...in a couple of months we'll be checking it again after five 5-7k OCIs with PP 5w-30 and see what it looks like then.