keep using what your using, or switch to HM oil of the same grade. 5w30. IMO 10w's are outdated, use a 5w. no need to go thicker your not really using that much oil. a HM may help the leaks, but a qt every 3k is minimal usage for your mileage.
Should I use heavier weight oil?
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I say run a 40 weight HM.
It's not too thick what-so-ever.
It's not too thick what-so-ever.
Originally Posted By: ahoier
Yea.....15w40 is definitely too thick....though....as a "top off" oil, if you plan to continue using the "manufacturer spec" oil, 5w-30....I can't see a 15w40 causing much harm.....for a quart top off here and there.....
Agreed. Even though the OP's climate isn't too bad, now is not the time to be playing with 15w-40 unless absolutely necessary. Leave that for the summer.
Yea.....15w40 is definitely too thick....though....as a "top off" oil, if you plan to continue using the "manufacturer spec" oil, 5w-30....I can't see a 15w40 causing much harm.....for a quart top off here and there.....
Agreed. Even though the OP's climate isn't too bad, now is not the time to be playing with 15w-40 unless absolutely necessary. Leave that for the summer.
15W-40 is not too "thick" for the OP's climate...
My advice is to sit steady.
Even a 3,000 mile road trip isn't going to empty the sump, and as the OP knows his consumption, a check/top up at every fill-up isn't going to hurt much except the hood latch wire.
My advice is to sit steady.
Even a 3,000 mile road trip isn't going to empty the sump, and as the OP knows his consumption, a check/top up at every fill-up isn't going to hurt much except the hood latch wire.
If you believe the high mileage oil claims(and it does have merit in spite of what's been said by some of the BITOG resident experts) you should have been using it for the last 202,000 miles...
Since it'll be cold soon I'd use a HM 5w-30... I can't see the reasoning how a 10W-30 could help at all, just going to have thicker oil at startup but be approx same at operating temp...
Since it'll be cold soon I'd use a HM 5w-30... I can't see the reasoning how a 10W-30 could help at all, just going to have thicker oil at startup but be approx same at operating temp...
If consumption is now 1.5-3K per quart, that really isn't that bad after 277K.
You could try Maxlife 5W-30, although 10W-30 would be okay too.
If this oil does nothing to reduce consumption, you could try the same oil in the 10W-40.
Maxlife has worked for me in a couple of applications, so it is what I'd recommend.
It's also a very good oil, judging from the UOAs you can view here.
You could try Maxlife 5W-30, although 10W-30 would be okay too.
If this oil does nothing to reduce consumption, you could try the same oil in the 10W-40.
Maxlife has worked for me in a couple of applications, so it is what I'd recommend.
It's also a very good oil, judging from the UOAs you can view here.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
15W-40 is not too "thick" for the OP's climate...
OP said his temperature range was down to 10F (-12.2C). While technically 15W40 should handle this ok, it's definitely not ideal.
I agree with the proposal to run maxlife, either 5W30 or 10w30, over winter and 10W40 over summer. Even if it does nothing else, it's a good stout oil.
15W-40 is not too "thick" for the OP's climate...
OP said his temperature range was down to 10F (-12.2C). While technically 15W40 should handle this ok, it's definitely not ideal.
I agree with the proposal to run maxlife, either 5W30 or 10w30, over winter and 10W40 over summer. Even if it does nothing else, it's a good stout oil.
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Its sounds like the OP is near the intersection of I-77 and the Blue Ridge Parkway (Hillsville, Fancy Gap, Galax, ect.). He could easily run a 20W50 in a '93 Trooper without an issue. However, it would be thicker than needed. Before my recent move to Missouri, I spent most of my life near the junction of Tennessee, Virginia, and North Carolina.
Gebo- the consensus is to try something a little thicker. The debate you are seeing is related to how much thicker. My advice is to be careful. If you try products that may quickly remove carbon from the rings, you may also end up with multiple leaks as you remove the gunk that is currently keeping your oil from slipping past the seals and gaskets. Likewise, if you go too thick, you risk unnecessarily high oil pressure that puts even more stress on the seals.
I recommend that you try a slow cleaning strategy like PU 5W30. Alternatively, you can just switch to cheaper oil and tolerate the consumption.
Gebo- the consensus is to try something a little thicker. The debate you are seeing is related to how much thicker. My advice is to be careful. If you try products that may quickly remove carbon from the rings, you may also end up with multiple leaks as you remove the gunk that is currently keeping your oil from slipping past the seals and gaskets. Likewise, if you go too thick, you risk unnecessarily high oil pressure that puts even more stress on the seals.
I recommend that you try a slow cleaning strategy like PU 5W30. Alternatively, you can just switch to cheaper oil and tolerate the consumption.
The advice above assumes that you have already checked the PCV.
Leaks, burning, or both?
Mostly burning?
Like mentioned, I'd sue a high mileage oil in 5-30 right now.
Good for seal leaks and a bit heavier for less burning.
But saying the car uses a qt or two every 3k is a huge range of use. Way too imprecise.
Mostly burning?
Like mentioned, I'd sue a high mileage oil in 5-30 right now.
Good for seal leaks and a bit heavier for less burning.
But saying the car uses a qt or two every 3k is a huge range of use. Way too imprecise.
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You could get a jug of GTX 20W50 at Walmart. Super cheap and a great oil.
Car is not mine so that's why I seem a little imprecise. One time it used 1 qt, next time it used 2 qts, can't remember last time, etc. Part of the problem is this engine doesn't take even qts on changes. He puts even qts in and it is sometimes hard to know how much it is using if you don't know where you are starting from. He runs it till the engine starts making a little noise and then he adds the oil. Please don't lecture me. I know, I know....it has lasted 277,000 miles....
The owner is not a BITOG kind of guy....
Isuzu resides in Bassett, VA on VA/NC line.
I'd probably modify my temp range from 15-100 F as I think more about it. Sure it may get 10F one day in the winter but it normally peaks out at 100F in the summer.
I just asked owner about PCV valve and he can't remember when it was replaced. He's on his way to AA now so at least that will be fixed. We are in the cleaning phase with ARX right now. We'll finish that up with the rinse and see where we are and then probably move to the HM oil after that.
The owner is not a BITOG kind of guy....
Isuzu resides in Bassett, VA on VA/NC line.
I'd probably modify my temp range from 15-100 F as I think more about it. Sure it may get 10F one day in the winter but it normally peaks out at 100F in the summer.
I just asked owner about PCV valve and he can't remember when it was replaced. He's on his way to AA now so at least that will be fixed. We are in the cleaning phase with ARX right now. We'll finish that up with the rinse and see where we are and then probably move to the HM oil after that.
I am pretty sure the 3.2L V6 has a PCV. Does he have a different engine?
use whats spec. for your engine using a 5w 30 in place of 5w20 spec. can decrease the oil jets splashing on the rods pistons etc.therefore inc. heat and wear. am i wrong?
Originally Posted By: boxcartommie22
use whats spec. for your engine using a 5w 30 in place of 5w20 spec. can decrease the oil jets splashing on the rods pistons etc.therefore inc. heat and wear. am i wrong?
Mostly...
If thicker oil was a problem, engines would be burning up due to starvation when cold and oil is 15-30x times thicker than when hot... The average 5w-30 is maybe 30%(that's .3x) thicker than a 5W-20, all the gloom & doom, the sky is falling etc is unfounded...
use whats spec. for your engine using a 5w 30 in place of 5w20 spec. can decrease the oil jets splashing on the rods pistons etc.therefore inc. heat and wear. am i wrong?
Mostly...
If thicker oil was a problem, engines would be burning up due to starvation when cold and oil is 15-30x times thicker than when hot... The average 5w-30 is maybe 30%(that's .3x) thicker than a 5W-20, all the gloom & doom, the sky is falling etc is unfounded...
Originally Posted By: uart
Originally Posted By: Shannow
15W-40 is not too "thick" for the OP's climate...
OP said his temperature range was down to 10F (-12.2C). While technically 15W40 should handle this ok, it's definitely not ideal.
I agree with the proposal to run maxlife, either 5W30 or 10w30, over winter and 10W40 over summer. Even if it does nothing else, it's a good stout oil.
15w40 or 10w40 are not thick oils.
When that is hot just pour a little out, you'll realise how thin it is. It will provide good lubrication and avoid consumption when hot.
I use a 'thick' oil 10w60 but it works great for my engine and needs. I have OP and temp. gauges.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
15W-40 is not too "thick" for the OP's climate...
OP said his temperature range was down to 10F (-12.2C). While technically 15W40 should handle this ok, it's definitely not ideal.
I agree with the proposal to run maxlife, either 5W30 or 10w30, over winter and 10W40 over summer. Even if it does nothing else, it's a good stout oil.
15w40 or 10w40 are not thick oils.
When that is hot just pour a little out, you'll realise how thin it is. It will provide good lubrication and avoid consumption when hot.
I use a 'thick' oil 10w60 but it works great for my engine and needs. I have OP and temp. gauges.
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