should i extend my drivetrain oil changes?

[bowlofturtle]

Here is my logic.

General OCI are 3750-5000 miles on most makes and models. Most guys here run 5000-10k miles and brave souls run 15k pending UoA while running good synthetic oils like amsoil, redline, M1, GC

Now my 2005 G35x AWD sedan. Inifinti recommends me do 3750mile oil changes, and 30k front/rear/transfer case flushes and i think ATF as well or that might be part of the 60k only. Well either way its either 30 or 60k. I did mines at 30k, front and rear diff with Mobil 1, Transfer case with redline D4 and ATF with normal nissan J-matic.

Pretty much everything is syntetic fluid... should be extend my driveline OCI? I'm nearing 60k right now and debating... the OCD me is fighting the cheap me right now.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

IMO i would do it at 45k and call it a day.

transfer case oils and stuff like that arent quite up to the same challenge as engine oils are.

you have absolutely nothing to worry about if you just use quality products.

 

[Chris Meutsch]

Even with synthetics, I wouldn't go over 40k. $30 of M1 is cheaper then a rear end.

 

[bowlofturtle]

i think my logic is completely fair. pretty much we doubled up on the engine oil...apply the same technology to gear oil and be least 1.5x the interval.

I would of gone completely syn but car had gotten a great deal for J matic at like 3$ a bottle x 12.

I was thinking of going over the completely amsoil once i find a local dealer in chicago.

Amsoil is claiming 50/100k on their gear oils.... actually same goes for their ATF... dont know to trust that claim or not....

 

[millerbl00]

Oil is cheap, trans and transfer case are not, change it my advice.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

of course the manufacturers use an underestimate when telling the change intervals for stuff, so good quality synthetics could easily go the distance.

however if it were me, i'd get bored and change it, and if you have the money, might as well do it anyways, like said, oil is cheaper, trans and transfer case are not.

 

[bowlofturtle]

^ true but if thats the case, why spring for the higher end fluids vs say M1...


looks like i should be sticking with 30k intervals but not so anal about being exactly at 30k.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

unless you are straight up racing, the benefits that the higher end boutique fluids have to offer will never even really come into play, and M1 will work perfectly.

you'll have the peace of mind knowing that you yourself have already one-upped Infinity by using a higher grade oil than even they require.

I ran some M1 75w90 in my Eclipse transmission and i have to say, it really did run fantastic. Changed it to Redline MT-90 after about 20k because i realized i used a GL5 (M1) instead of the required GL4 lube rating, but it still ran awesome.

No complaints at all with Redline either, seems extremely smooth.

edit: you have to realize the simple fact that since you are even part of this forum means you belong to an elitist motorist group that obviously cares way more about their cars than the average person and will definately maintain it better than anyone, even the dealership. and even those dealer only serviced cars last a long, long time because thats what 99.9% of people do anyways.

 

[bowlofturtle]

I drag once a year for fun in brackets and I'm considering picking up auto-x

pureone filter with GTX is what i run for engine oil because my used oil analysis states i can should be able to do 5-6k easily but i only put about 4000-4500. I do it mainly due to cost $13 for the oil VS say other brands like m1 and redline being $7-10 per quart x 5.

There is no cheap gearoil really, its run with the no name store brand, lucas, M1 or RP. I dont believe in RP and they have a $20/bottle tag for gear oil VS M1, amsoil, Redline that is about $10-13.

I pick up my redline from amazon with free shipping. I want to go from D4 to amsoil ATF since i heard it really does the job well in all applications. Price is about the same as well. Dealer wants $10-15 for a bottle of ATF, redline D4 and amsoil ATF is about $10-13, plus i can use it on other cars. That fact alone is the reason why i'm going with amsoil ATF. Just cant find a local vendor so i dont have to pay shipping...

most ATF intervals i've seen and heard are 60k and diffs are 30k. Not many follow these rules and think they are lifetime oils and sometimes they actually do last the life of the car ( small pickup that never towed)

but yea i'll be sticking with 30-35k intervals and use what i have available.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

i find it ironic that you are worrying about your transmission and transfer cases more than your engine since you have chosen a conventional oil for it.

engine: any synthetic will really work, PureOne filter is a good choice. oil is much cheaper if you buy in jugs, i would choose edge/platinum/M1 in no specific order, though i did like the way the edge made my car run.

transmission/transfer cases: i'd got redline or amsoil here since it wont be changed but every few years, use something high quality. and if you order from amazon i might even pack it (i work there) hah.

 

[Geo_Prizm]

Oil companies should give amazon deals, because I get the oil with filter at almost half the price of what amazon charges for a case of oil. ;-)

 

[MetalSlug]

I drove 10k miles a year normaly, 30k is around 2 and half year or 3 year for me, I like to change rear diff every 2 year is around 20k miles, hehe. take me 15 min to change out, with 20 dollar worth of gear oil, 20 dollar for every 2 year is cheap, [censored] I might even do every year lol.

 

[bowlofturtle]

Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
i find it ironic that you are worrying about your transmission and transfer cases more than your engine since you have chosen a conventional oil for it.

engine: any synthetic will really work, PureOne filter is a good choice. oil is much cheaper if you buy in jugs, i would choose edge/platinum/M1 in no specific order, though i did like the way the edge made my car run.

having a engine like a VQ35, which has been known to be hard on oil on this board, i asked around and people told me to do engine OCI like at 5k on syn, having done a used oil analysis for GTX at 4k miles to see what the deal is and getting the green light from them to go up to 6k, i believe this should be the oil for me in this case. I will not go past 5k though on conventional oil. If there was a oil that i can go 10k/ 1 year on, i would be all over that. Until then i'll stick with my 5k/ 2-3 times a year oil changes. I might play around with oil to see whats on sale

rear diff and AT takes like 15 minutes. But the front diff and T-case are the annoying ones where i need a fluid pump, takes me 30-45minutes each with the pump and makes a HUGE mess and stinks!



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I looked thru amsoil site. Infiniti suggests we use GL-5 SAE 80w90 for the front and rear diffs.

"Severe Gear 75W-90" is what most put in it but i saw "Synthetic 80W-90 Gear Lube" as well. What is the difference? I ran M1 75w90 when i did it because i thought 80w90 is something nissan made up so you will buy their stuff kinda like K-matic is dex3, but now that i have the option i might want to venture into getting the right viscosity grade since its SLIGHTLY cheaper.