Should I do this mix?
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Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
There's a recent UOA here with a name brand dino and one quart of Platinum. The oil held up well. No guarantees on yours thou.
Save the Chevron for summer and try all the PP now in the winter if you're changing. I was using the a 50/50 mix of PP and delo that worked ok but switched to PP when its prices dropped at Kragen along with our winter temps here in Nor Cal.
What's the vehicle?
NO
Translated: you should use Amsoil.
I don't understand the "need" to mix oils. Lubrication engineers spend lots of time and money to figure out the right base oils and add pacs to reach a goal. Somehow we think adding VSOT or some other oil is going to make an improvement or at least not hurt anything. Whats the point?
If you have an extra quart of something sitting around use it in the lawnmower or buy some more to do a complete fill in the car.
Mixing oils makes you the engineer and I doubt you are qualified, I know I am not.
If you have an extra quart of something sitting around use it in the lawnmower or buy some more to do a complete fill in the car.
Mixing oils makes you the engineer and I doubt you are qualified, I know I am not.
Trips I believe that I recall this. It was something like 4 qts of Pennzoil and 1 qt Pennzoil platinum was the mixture. With Havoline and Pennzoil being very similar I believe he has a certain degree that his mixture should be about the same.
How do you know they're similar?
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
What you don't understand is the engineers could improve their oils - but most must keep in a certain price category - so they are limited. So all these engineers are only allowed to put in so many additives or so much higher Group number in each jug.
Don't think for one minute that the bottom line oil you are purchasing is the best composition that the engineer thought of. It may be the best composition that he can produce for XX-amount of money.
So that allows home blenders like me to tinker with blends that are beyond the engineer's price range for that particular bottle that you feel is the best thing since sliced bresd - just because the bottler couldn't afford to add more of something to meet the restricted pricing of the product.
Like always thou -- get a UOA afterwards or if you want, cross your fingers & trust the home-blend UOAs here at BITOG.
I would buy enough PP for a complete change and do the same with the dino. But, I'm anal that way.
Please list the home-brew UOA's that you are referring to.
I've never viewed any UOA evidence that a home-brew was producing better results than a branded formulation.
If someone had hit on a home-brew that consistently posted lower wear metals than the major brands, than would'nt we see multiple UOA's, as others jumped on the bandwagon?
Look at both Havoline and Pennzoil's VOA. Add packs are very similar and both utilize group II+ base stocks. This is the older non "deposit shield" of course.
I guess my real issue is this. If one uses a good dino up to current specs with 3,000 mile to 5,000 mile OCIs the engine will run hundreds of thousands of miles with no oil related problems. What on earth am I trying to fix by putting in additives and mixing oils?
Seems to me the guy who goes to Jiffy Lube 4 times a year, pays $100 a year, and runs his engine 150,000 miles has this whole thing figured out.
Seems to me the guy who goes to Jiffy Lube 4 times a year, pays $100 a year, and runs his engine 150,000 miles has this whole thing figured out.
Very doubtful, as home brews are generally made up of what someone presently has on hand, combined with the average joe's propensity not to strike out into the dark world of brew mixing intentionally and any intentional brewer's tendency to be somewhat of an against the mainstream rebel sort, each will consider what they think is appropriate for individual specific conditions. More of a mental game for those outside of the box thinkers bored with the ease of just sticking with one type and calling it good. Or the unintentional mixer that finds a sump all of a sudden .5, 1, or more qts low and quickly tops up with the closest type available which will likely never see an analysis.
I recently had what seemed to be a great mix of 1gal of Mobil T&SUV 5-40 old formula, to 2.25 gal of Delo 400 15-40, and 1 qt of GC 0-30 but alas, no UOA and unlikely to do the mix again anyway. But it was fun at the time.
The key word here is "fun" and I think that's what most homebrews are for most of the members, here.
And don't get me wrong, I run homebrews & have fun with them.
But I'm doing this in my own vehicle, which is out of warranty, and I'm not claiming that my blind mixing of 2 or more formulated engine oils is producing better results than a branded formulation, because I have done zero testing to validate my perceptions.
And don't get me wrong, I run homebrews & have fun with them.
But I'm doing this in my own vehicle, which is out of warranty, and I'm not claiming that my blind mixing of 2 or more formulated engine oils is producing better results than a branded formulation, because I have done zero testing to validate my perceptions.
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