Should I change this caliper/how to?

[GerGa]

Hi,
My 2013 Subaru Impreza needs rear pads and rotors and the the right rear caliper piston face is pretty rusty. Not sure if I should just replace it. I guess I am just worried that the rusted piston will wear a pad unevenly, however the pad it pushes on IS warn evenly.
I never did a caliper before so I am wondering what is the method for bleeding the air out of the new caliper. I saw one youtube video where the guy uses a clear hose and bottle, had someone pump the brake 3 times then hold, then open bleeder momentarily, close bleeder, repeat. But that was on a car with just a little bit of air in the lines.
I don't plan on keeping the car much longer but at the same time should do it right if necessary.

Pictures of caliper:
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3

Thanks

PS: By the way my outside pad is warn unevenly and not sure why. Maybe it just happens because the part of the caliper that pushes on the outside pad is not corroded. Picture

 

[GerGa]

Also I'm changing the caliper brackets too. If someone could point me where to find the caliper bracket mounting bolts for the rear of my car that would be nice. Rock Auto only has bolts for the front. Maybe they're the same??

 

[geeman789]

Worn outside pad is usually from sticking or seized slide pins. The uneven wear seen on the one pad is likely from rust jacking, the build up of rust on the pad ear and probably the base of the caliper bracket. The pad needs to be able to move freely in the bracket, and when rust builds up it binds the pad freezing it.

The rusty piston face shouldn't be a problem ... unless the piston bore is rusted. If the piston moves freely then it should be ok.

 

[Imp4]

Go to your local library.
Use the free Alldata access to get step by step instructions for your repair.
Print out instructions as appropriate.

Win your weekend...

 

[slacktide_bitog]

The good news is that Raybestos makes all-NEW calipers for your Impreza

 

[Rand]

surface rust on the outside doesnt mean much, I'd carefully clean it up and keep going if the pads wore even.

 

[philipp10]

well if your cheap like me you take a file and clean up the face, assuming that is the only thing wrong of course.

 

[The Critic]

Just use a file and clean up the piston face.

There is zero reason to replace your working factory calipers with junky reman calipers or new chinese calipers.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

Looking at your pictures, the only rust I see is on exposed metal (maybe quite normal depending upon where you drive in winter). The rubber BOOT appears in good condition and you said the pads are wearing normal, which means the caliper is functioning and the pins aren't stuck. If I were you, which I'm not, I'd clean it up well, lubricate everything and use what you've got. Replacing the caliper sounds like a waste of time, money, and effort to me; but I'm not you, and you may consider my advice worth what you've paid for it. If it helps, here's about a 6 minute Chrisfix You tube video with tips for you; watch it all b4 you start doing anything: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJDOuZzEAQc

For what it's worth, I own several vehicles (NEWEST) is more than 15 years old GM, I've done all the brake work since they were new, and I've never needed a caliper. I also replace my brake fluid about every 2-3 years; brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts moisture, and your brake lines will deteriorate from the inside out. You can buy a one man pressure bleeder and do all this yourself for less than you'd pay a shop to do a simple pad slap.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...sc=0&_osacat=34998&_odkw=mityvac

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted by GerGa
Hi,
My 2013 Subaru Impreza needs rear pads and rotors and the the right rear caliper piston face is pretty rusty. Not sure if I should just replace it. I guess I am just worried that the rusted piston will wear a pad unevenly, however the pad it pushes on IS warn evenly.
I never did a caliper before so I am wondering what is the method for bleeding the air out of the new caliper. I saw one youtube video where the guy uses a clear hose and bottle, had someone pump the brake 3 times then hold, then open bleeder momentarily, close bleeder, repeat. But that was on a car with just a little bit of air in the lines.
I don't plan on keeping the car much longer but at the same time should do it right if necessary.

Pictures of caliper:
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3

Thanks

PS: By the way my outside pad is warn unevenly and not sure why. Maybe it just happens because the part of the caliper that pushes on the outside pad is not corroded. Picture


When wiped clean the piston and pins should look pristine. No rust, no pitting. Never sand, steel wool, wire brush. Always replace.

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted by Donald

When wiped clean the piston and pins should look pristine. No rust, no pitting. Never sand, steel wool, wire brush. Always replace.


So you replace your calipers yearly in new york? They get un-pristine here in aprox 1 winter of salt.

 

[Oro_O]

In Rustopolis or wherever you live, after cleaning thinks up, I'd coat things very well with Sil-Glyde for protection and anti-squeal. Pull the pins, clean and lubricate them also to prevent them from sticking and actually creating brake dragging.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted by The Critic
Just use a file and clean up the piston face.

There is zero reason to replace your working factory calipers with junky reman calipers or new chinese calipers.


+1

I just rebuilt 37yo calipers. Not a big deal. Clean what you need to with the right products, could even be something like ospho if there's surface rust. Potentially get new mounting hardware, and go with it.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Originally Posted by Rand
Originally Posted by Donald

When wiped clean the piston and pins should look pristine. No rust, no pitting. Never sand, steel wool, wire brush. Always replace.


So you replace your calipers yearly in new york? They get un-pristine here in aprox 1 winter of salt.


They get un-pristine in approx 1 minute of salt

Calipers will rust overnight any time of the year

 

[Driz]

Originally Posted by JHZR2
Originally Posted by The Critic
Just use a file and clean up the piston face.

There is zero reason to replace your working factory calipers with junky reman calipers or new chinese calipers.


+1

I just rebuilt 37yo calipers. Not a big deal. Clean what you need to with the right products, could even be something like ospho if there's surface rust. Potentially get new mounting hardware, and go with it.




I used to do that myself 37 yr ago too. Back then seal kit was $10 and if yo were luck the pitting in the bore bad. You could get away with honing out too sometimes. Today that kit if you can find one is 3/4 the price of a whole rebuilt caliper if you can get one. Why would a guy want to put himself through all that when for $40+ core he is in and done. The only really hard part is getting that brake line off without folding. Flare wrench ONLY Times have moved on .

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted by Driz



Originally Posted by JHZR2
Originally Posted by The Critic
Just use a file and clean up the piston face.

There is zero reason to replace your working factory calipers with junky reman calipers or new chinese calipers.


+1

I just rebuilt 37yo calipers. Not a big deal. Clean what you need to with the right products, could even be something like ospho if there's surface rust. Potentially get new mounting hardware, and go with it.




I used to do that myself 37 yr ago too. Back then seal kit was $10 and if yo were luck the pitting in the bore bad. You could get away with honing out too sometimes. Today that kit if you can find one is 3/4 the price of a whole rebuilt caliper if you can get one. Why would a guy want to put himself through all that when for $40+ core he is in and done. The only really hard part is getting that brake line off without folding. Flare wrench ONLY Times have moved on .


I paid $14 for my rebuild kit, while a rebuilt caliper is $40-ish plus core, core return cost, etc.

There was some learning curve but it wasn't bad at all. I knew I had a matched set, surface rust was treated, the caliper was repainted, all other elements were good. You get none of that peace of mind with a $40 rebuild.

Quality focused rebuilt calipers are more in the $199 range.

 

[philipp10]

Originally Posted by Driz



Originally Posted by JHZR2
Originally Posted by The Critic
Just use a file and clean up the piston face.

There is zero reason to replace your working factory calipers with junky reman calipers or new chinese calipers.


+1

I just rebuilt 37yo calipers. Not a big deal. Clean what you need to with the right products, could even be something like ospho if there's surface rust. Potentially get new mounting hardware, and go with it.




I used to do that myself 37 yr ago too. Back then seal kit was $10 and if yo were luck the pitting in the bore bad. You could get away with honing out too sometimes. Today that kit if you can find one is 3/4 the price of a whole rebuilt caliper if you can get one. Why would a guy want to put himself through all that when for $40+ core he is in and done. The only really hard part is getting that brake line off without folding. Flare wrench ONLY Times have moved on .

because sometimes the replacement caliper is worse than the old unit just rebuilt?

 

[WyrTwister]

I agree . File , wire brush , whizzy wheel . Then some sort of grease / lube to try to slow down the rust . Make sure all the sliding parts slide freely .

Every time I work on our vehicles , I thank God I do not live in the salt / rust belt .

Do not think I have ever replaced a caliper . I found out a new wheel cylinder is almost the same price as a rebuild kit . I have replaced a wheel cylinder or two . I have replaced missing , worn , broken hardware on drum brakes . Never replaced hardware on disk brakes .

Best of luck to you .

 

[stanlee]

I see nothing wrong with that caliper. Wire wheel it, brake clean it and put it back. The boot and everything else looks good. Depending on where you live crusties are a part of life.