Should I change oil?

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This is a bit long, but stay with me, this is background info, a short is at the end.

I have 3 cars, 2 of which have GM LS based engines. The 3rd car, a 2013 ATS I'm not as concerned as it is a lease and has the Cadillac maintenance program (free maintenance for 48 months), so I don't do the oil changes.

The first one I am concerned about is a 2001 Silverado Z71 with the 5.3L LM7 engine and 168K miles, it calls for 6 quarts of 5W-30 oil. The other is a 2008 Corvette Z06 with the 7.0L LS7 engine and 17K miles, it calls for 8 quarts of M1 5W-30.

I bought the truck back in 2005 with 67,500 miles, Since I have owned it I have always put M1 5w-30 oil in at 5000 miles or OLM indicated, whatever came first. I also have long tube headers, exhaust, cold air intake, and dyno tune on the truck. It makes 45 hp over stock to the rear wheels, most modifications have been since 80-100K miles. The truck is my daily driver.

The Z06 I got back in 2010 with 1800 miles and it usually only gets an oil change once a year, It got 2 in 2011 due to a 5500 mile road trip. Otherwise the car is just a weekend toy.

I noticed a noise from my the engine of the truck and I took it in, they told me that I have a worn main or rod bearing making the noise, but it is not terminal at this time. I have a video of the noise I can post if desired. I asked why they thought the engine wore so quickly as many times these engines last for 250-300K without much issue. They said the additional HP placed additional stress on the motor and that M1 probably wasn't cutting it and need to look at a better synthetic.
Right now I am looking at continuing to drive the truck until May or June and at that time I will pick up another daily driver with an LS engine, then the truck will probably be relegated to truck duty when needed, but receive a new heart in the fall in the form of a hopped up LQ9 6.0L.

Right now I buy M1 5W-30 in bulk when it is on sale at Costco, heck I have 18 bottles in my garage. I am looking for an oil I can buy and stock up on and use in the two cars and in whatever I get in the future (probably an LS3, L99 or LSA). I drive my cars hard, the truck sees WOT daily, but I also maintain them religiously. The LS7 is such an extreme motor as it and I am concerned about it, although M1 is spec'd by GM. I am considering swaping to Royal Purple HPS oil for the truck but I can't run that in the Z06 as it still has an extended warranty. So I'd have to run the normal RP synthetic in it, but RP is a huge price increase over M1. Then I have to consider when the truck gets a new motor, it will have a larger cam, re-worked heads and etc.

My question is; is M1 ok for my applications and the truck issue is just a fluke, or do I need to look at a new synthetic for my oil of choice?
 
the "mechanic" saying that the M1 won't support the extra 45hp is laughable. once again mechanics do not know lubrication very well.

stick with the Mobil 1 and if want I would suggest Red Line or Amsoil. royal purple in all formulas IMO are overpriced for what ya get and the risk of shear which you don't want in a high performance app.
 
M1 5w-30 is a top-tier oil with many manufacturers approvals. IMO, Your engine was going to make that noise regardless of oil choice.

The opinion of your mechanic is just that, an opinion.
 
While I'm not really a fan of M1, the claim that M1 caused this problem is absurd.

If M1 can't handle a warmed up LS1, then it has no business in a LS9.
 
Your mechanic is wrong.

LS engines are typically easy on oil and M1 5W30 can easily support the modifications you've made.

I worked with a couple of friends rebuilding a 5.3L and LQ9 6.0L and they both run M1 5W30 purchased at Walmart. In fact, the 5.3L (powering a rock buggy) is now supercharged and he still runs M1.

I recommend taking the truck for a second opinion before condemning the engine. There are many other sources for the knock - flex plate bolts, bum torque converter, catalytic converter (my previous 5.4L Ford had a TSB for exhaust "knock"!), etc. Your truck needs proper a diagnosis.
 
Your truck's engine is making a noise. Hmmm....maybe because it's got 170k miles on it and you say that it's your daily driver and your floor it all the time.

Duh!!

That's what happens when you beat the SNOT out of any engine using any oil. The trucks that go 300-400k miles on their 5.3's are usually driven a little nicer than that. They can be loaded up and pull trailers all day long....but I doubt any engine will go 300-400k miles when it's being floored EVERYDAY.

Come on, man. That's crazy.
 
Originally Posted By: racer12306
While I'm not really a fan of M1, the claim that M1 caused this problem is absurd.

If M1 can't handle a warmed up LS1, then it has no business in a LS9.


I'm in as a plus 1 on this post
Op
I've got a 99 silverado with a cammed 5.3. Dyno tuned with 340 to the wheels. It's got 280k on it now.
I've got the typical piston slap at start up however it still runs like a dream.
I would jump up to m1 0w-40 though but other than that drive er
 
Dang, I need to get my glasses. Thought the motor had 100K, not flogged with a chip for 100K.

In that case, your mechanic may be right.
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Your truck's engine is making a noise. Hmmm....maybe because it's got 170k miles on it and you say that it's your daily driver and your floor it all the time.

Duh!!

That's what happens when you beat the SNOT out of any engine using any oil. The trucks that go 300-400k miles on their 5.3's are usually driven a little nicer than that. They can be loaded up and pull trailers all day long....but I doubt any engine will go 300-400k miles when it's being floored EVERYDAY.

Come on, man. That's crazy.


I would like to point out that there is nothing wrong with using an engines available power. At high rpm, you are least likely to have the oil film break down. I currently have 130k on a 4.6 mod motor that has been run wide open at 6k rpm for half of its life.
 
Thanks everyone, I do appreciate the help. I've always known that M1 wasn't the best oil out there, but I figured for my use and maintenance schedule, it would probably be among the best I could use.
As far as the truck is concerned I don't know what the previous owner did to it and that is the very reason I won't buy another used truck. There is some weird slop in the transfer case, and the previous guy spit out his sunflower seeds in the center console, which took 2 days to clean. But I was in college and the truck was a good price and mileage compared to others on the market.

As I said I drive them hard, because I enjoy driving, Mainly I don't want to be that guy holding up traffic, so it is usually pulling out into traffic or getting on the freeway. but I know how I drive them and take care of them accordingly. For instance I replace flush the trans every 20-30K miles knowing that the 4l60e is a weak link in the drivetrian. The truck uses about 1 to 1-1/4 quart every 5K miles.

the truck in question
2283891C-61EA-43E8-8FFE-A214042A5DA6-14954-00000A414687B4AD_zps3dab7cbf.jpg
 
Why do you keep saying that? What is it that you know is deficient with Mobil 1?

Originally Posted By: Stone150
I've always known that M1 wasn't the best oil out there
 
From owning several chevrolets, hearing weird noises, sometimes daily, is not out of the norm. Its just what they do. They last a long time even if they bother the heck out of ya too. If its just a little ticking sound or something like that, I say just keep.driven her. My 4.3 seems like it has ticking sounds that just come and go. With only 90000 miles and oil changed at about 3000 mile oci's.
 
No engine runs longer that is "on it's last legs" than a GM motor....especially the older 350's and 454's

It appears the newer modular engines are following suit as well. Good to hear.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Why do you keep saying that? What is it that you know is deficient with Mobil 1?

Originally Posted By: Stone150
I've always known that M1 wasn't the best oil out there


As I understand it, there are other oils that world be better for change intervals, better lubrication characteristics and additives, but also cost more. It seems that for my application I always thought M1 or the other leading brand synthetics would probably work great.
 
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