Shield X - Flat shooter?

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Mar 20, 2023
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NorthernCalif
After a tax return purchase of a new 9 M/P Sheild X this year, I'm finding it to be a flat shooter when it comes to center mass targets on the range at 10 yards (as compared to my PX4 and Walther).

Anyone else have this experience? I'm still getting use to the ergonomics with this model, but I'm liking it more and more.
 
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Before the purchase, I read several reviews on other forums about it being a 'flat, low shooter' for this model. So when I tried it at the range after about 15 rounds, I noticed it was always low by about 4 inches. I assume that's what other reviews meant by flat shooter for this model.

I'm sure it's probably me with the trigger squeeze, maybe being a flat poly trigger....pulling too hard and down (or too gentle on the grip).

It's just when I use my other two, the aim seems more consistent.
 
“Flat shooter” doesn’t violate any laws of physics, in fact, that feel is simple physics.

The higher the bore axis sits above your wrist, the more torque in the recoil impulse. A Sig P226 sits petty high above, as does my H&K USP.

If a gun is designed to sit low in your hands and puts the bore axis closer to your wrist, there is less torque.

Same force. Smaller lever arm moving the gun muzzle “up”. So, muzzle rise is reduced as the force goes more directly rearward, worrisome your hand less.

Pure physics.

Some new guns are much better than old ones about that bore height. They not only “feel” better - they are better.
 
NIB purchase or used? Check sight height fr/r. At 10 yards, even a weak 115gr target load is on the straighter side of fighting off gravity... Shoot it for fun at steel, 100 yards out, and you'll see the drop.
 
Are you used to the smaller framed pistols? If not, I recommend weighting the frame/rail with some tungsten putty or brass to achieve the desired muzzle rise (or not). Once you get it consistent then go to your local gunsmith and have it weighted permanently.

I personally do not like the smaller framed and shorter 9mm and larger shooters.
 
@Astro14 Where did you put the rods? Did you have to modify the frame?
I used a Wilson Combat grip module, which had pre-molded slots for their Tungsten rods.

I love the Wilson combat grip on this. Better fit to my hand. Grippier texture. 5 minute job to change it out, 3 minutes of which were watching the video on how to do it. I used silicone caulk to hold them in place.

https://wilsoncombat.com/grip-module-wcp365-xl.html

https://wilsoncombat.com/grip-weigh...gento2_prod_wilson_combat_store_view_products
 
MOST point of impact issues with pistols are shooter related, not gun related.

Not to say that one is a bad shooter, but the mechanics of the gun can require a different grip to achieve the same POI. Try focusing on your wrist stability, and increasing grip firmness.

And as funny as it may sound, try to squeeze the trigger faster.
 
And as funny as it may sound, try to squeeze the trigger faster.

I never found that to work very well. To be transparent I rarely practice anywhere you can rapid fire. My local tactical ranges frown upon it. Everything is smooth and controlled.

At my age I focus on hand loading lighter loads and having my weapons weighted and dialed in for accuracy when at the range. In fact I my 10mm Delta Elite runs a custom 19lb recoil spring used along with a 170 grain load for range practice.

For fun in the desert I'll put my 28lb spring along with Black Talon lead loaded with 220 grain out of my can of Vihtavuori N320. this setup absolutely annihilates anything it hits. Of course accuracy goes into the toilet......
 
OT but related....I'm a fan of S&W pistols but I wish they would make their naming system less confusing. Calling almost every pistol an M&P, Shield, 2.0 etc...makes it difficult to distinguish one from the other.
 
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