Shell Rotella T 0W40 in 350 chev engine

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Just got a jug of Rotela T 0W40, and will be putting it in my 1997 Chev Tahoe with 350 engine (gas) did I make the right choice? I do realize that with the CG-4 rateing it is intended for Diesel. I`m in Alberta where we can get -40*c at times
 
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Hmm... didn't realize there was a Rotella 0w-40 out there.


I'm assuming its a canadian thing. Sounds like an oil I would like to try.
 
I went with 0w40 because the engine has 340,000km on it. Doesn`t burn oil, but I feel better about the 40 weight coverage with this seasoned of a engine
 
GM didn't like 40W (10W40) in their small block, but then again they weren't talking about Rotella T. I think you made a good choice but I think 0W30 would be better.
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
GM didn't like 40W (10W40) in their small block, but then again they weren't talking about Rotella T. I think you made a good choice but I think 0W30 would be better.

I bought and will be using 0w40 not 10w40
 
Originally Posted By: y2k345
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
GM didn't like 40W (10W40) in their small block, but then again they weren't talking about Rotella T. I think you made a good choice but I think 0W30 would be better.

I bought and will be using 0w40 not 10w40


I understand that but the reasons GM didn't like 10W40 was because of the the wide viscosity spread and VII, plus 30W was more than thick enough for the smb. 0W40 is even worse. But like I said, they were refererring to conventional oils and not Rotella T. I even said you probably made a good choice in Rotella 0W- since you are in a cold climate. But IMO an 0w30 would be better on all accounts except price maybe.
 
It is true that GM did not recomend 10W40 in their daily drivers but GM Performance Parts often recomended 20W50 and shiped a lot of ZZ motors with 20W50 as the fill.In fact in the article inone of the older GM Performance Part's catlog that showed you how to bypass the oil bypass the part number for oil was a 20W50 after the modification tothe oil pump. They where not truly bypassing the bypass just shimming it and switching the spring out with another part number.
 
J-B you sure know your GM sbcs for someone that seems to hate GM. J/k
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. Still though the reasons GM didn't like 10W40 would apply more to a light 0W-40 (as I said not so much a synthetic like Rotella though) than it probably would to a 20W-50. I'm kind of surprised GM PP would recommend a 20W-50 or even 15w40 for sbc, or even the old filter bypass mods, but they probably know something I don't. I'm guessing they know those near stock oil pans aren't big enough sump without a oil cooler for racing.
 
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[censored], all my 11.5 to 1 327 ate was 10w-40 and 20w-50 and it never had any issues at all. But I never drove the car in the winter either. This was also pre SL and SM days.
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Yes, only in Canada in the North American continent.


Where's the other Canada at?
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Originally Posted By: Gunatics_Adler
[censored], all my 11.5 to 1 327 ate was 10w-40 and 20w-50 and it never had any issues at all. But I never drove the car in the winter either. This was also pre SL and SM days.


Yeah a lot of people did run 10W40 and didn't seem to ever get sticky rings even in I want to say SF and probably much lower grade days. I was just passing on what was GM's postion of 10W40 since way back when lol.
 
Right around 1980 most all the 10W40 oils had some problems. They had to many or the wrong additives to make the vicosity stretch and it would cause piston rings to stick to the bores. That lasted for maybe a year or two; now the XW40's are a whole new breed.

I wish Rotella 0W40 was sold here in Arkansas, the Amsoil 10W40 I use now might be in trouble.
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KW, where you are at if you're considering RTS 0w40, sounds like RTS 5w40 (or any other 5w40 [Mobil, Castrol, Amsoil, Redline, Schaeffers, Pennzoil, Vavoline] or 0w40 [Mobil, Redline]) would fit well.
 
From what I remember is that the 0w30 is a blend (black jug?) is a blend. Then the 0W-40 in the blue jug is a full synthetic, that is until you get the new T-5 0W oils then they are both blends and only the T-6 5W-40 is a full syn.
Either way I think you put a good oil in your chevy for this winter.

(edit)after some digging here is what I found

here is the PDS for the SB oils from shell
http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-15.pdf

this is the PDS for the new lines of shell 0W oils
T-5 0W-30
http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-55.pdf

T-5 0W-40
http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-54.pdf
 
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Wow... I just bought the same oil and am putting it in for my next interval...in the same engine of the same year...I only have 302,000kms though....this is kind of weird. I will be only running the 0w40 in the winter and then rotella 15w40 in the summer. I've had it in my mind that I was going to a 40wt oil at 300,000km for some time now. I just recently started towing multiple ATV's and a 26' travel trailer, and its getting older, so I thought I'd give it a better oil for its many years of service. Got to love sales at UFA
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I have running Baldwin filters on the engine as well as on the remote transmission spin-on filter I added in the first week of ownership back 150,000kms ago. I do 1/2 trans capacity drain every year and still shifts crisp and smooth. Everything original & I can still squawk the tires, not bad for a 6000# vehicle..
 
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