Shell 5w30 burning too much.

[EloManga]

Hey guys,
I've a POS Probe, with a Mazda KL V6 engine, 10:1 compression.
I've always had a problem with it burning oil, but after 1500km's. I just changed my oil about 3 weeks ago & I've been doing mostly city driving. My oil level keeps dropping. Do you guys think I should add some 10w30 to my oil to thicken it up a bit or...?
I haven't noticed my car smoking, but today I was actually on the highway & I down shifted to 4th, revved to match the gears & as I accelerated, I see it puffing?! It went away & never came back the rest of the drive, so I'm not sure what to make of it.

 

[Mau]

blue smoke or black/grey?

 

[Lethal1ty17]

10w30 is just as thin as 5w30 at operating temperature. you could try an MMO piston ring soak if the rings are all gunked up which could cause some blowby.

 

[MrMeeks]

Add one can of RESTORE oil additive. This stopped my Ford's oil use cold.Restore requires about 100 miles of driving to be fully activated.

 

[beast3300]

10w30 is probally preferred in that older Mazda. Try Rotella T5 synblend 10w30. It is a diesel rated motor oil so it is HD engine oil. It could help your oil burning.

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: beast3300
10w30 is probally preferred in that older Mazda. Try Rotella T5 synblend 10w30. It is a diesel rated motor oil so it is HD engine oil. It could help your oil burning.


This raises an interesting question I've pondered for awhile: some have had success at reducing or eliminating oil consumption using an HDEO; which characteristic of the HDEO oil lends it better to reducing or eliminating oil consumption than non-HDEO oils.

Not the base oils. Not the detergent or dispersant package. Maybe the viscosity, but if so why specifically recommend an HDEO as there is always a corresponding PCMO selection of oils. That leaves the other additives, and the fact that HDEO oils contain too much of certain additives to meet the API SM spec (they tend to be API SJ). My thinking is its either the extra moly you typically find in an HDEO, or the higher levels of ZDDP. I would like to figure out which it is though.

-Spyder

 

[Gary Allan]

HDEO's aren't energy conserving. Higher HTHS, lower volatility ..etc..etc.

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
HDEO's aren't energy conserving. Higher HTHS, lower volatility ..etc..etc.


That would account for it too. I still wonder if the extra moly and ZDDP help as well.

It would also be interesting to see these numbers posted. I have the ones for Pennzoil's 10W30 Platinum from their product data sheet. If I can dig the numbers up for Rotella 10W30 I'd like to compare them side by side. The HTHS, NOACK, and Flashpoint for PP 10W30 are among the best I've seen, and why I chose it (price also a factor) as my summer oil for next year. I don't think 10W30 Rotella's scores are better (it may have a higher HTHS though, I'll concede that), which brings me back to ZDDP and moly, as it will have more of those.

-Spyder

 

[Gary Allan]

I guess an easy test would be to get some additive with moly in it ..add it to the consuming sump (not too much) and see if consumption is reduced.

 

[mechtech2]

Like mentioned, the 10-30 should be thicker when cold or warm than the 5-30.
But at full operating temperature, they should be quite similar.
Of course there are variants, but this is the general rule.

That being so...

I'd go with a X-40 to slow the oil burning. But you would have trade offs - cold weather flow and a bit more drag resulting in less gas mileage and power.

Cleaning internally often helps. MMO is often well worth a flush or two.

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
I guess an easy test would be to get some additive with moly in it ..add it to the consuming sump (not too much) and see if consumption is reduced.



I'm actually doing this already. Though it hasn't been in there long yet, and not being a controlled experiment, there are other variables in play that may account for any reduction in consumption. So even if it takes place, I won't be able to say with any degree of certainty that the increased moly was the reason.

On the flip side, I suppose if no reduction occurs I could say the added moly didn't help.

-Spyder

 

[mechtech2]

HDEOs are generally thicker in their range. This would account for less oil burning /leaking.
I don't think additives like ZDDP or moly reduce consumption.

[Except maybe in a left handed way - to prevent wear, in the long run]

 

[EloManga]

Thanks for the responses guys. Just to clarify, whats MMO?
I could try Restore, does it have moly in it?. Not sure what colour the smoke was, it was sunny & the glare skewed the colour.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
Just to clarify, whats MMO?


To some it's the Elixer of Life. To others it's a cheap solvent that smells good.

Marvel Mystery Oil.

 

[biodiesel]

Originally Posted By: Spyder7

It would also be interesting to see these numbers posted. I have the ones for Pennzoil's 10W30 Platinum from their product data sheet. If I can dig the numbers up for Rotella 10W30 I'd like to compare them side by side. The HTHS, NOACK, and Flashpoint for PP 10W30 are among the best I've seen, and why I chose it (price also a factor) as my summer oil for next year. I don't think 10W30 Rotella's scores are better (it may have a higher HTHS though, I'll concede that), which brings me back to ZDDP and moly, as it will have more of those.

-Spyder


Here you go Spyder. I did a thread on Rotella a few months back and posted the links to all their available T5 oils.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1888802/ (thread)

http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-56.pdf (T5 10w30/10w40)

 

[EloManga]

I have some MMO in the garage! This one can be added to either the fuel or oil I believe? I'll try it first, if no results, I'll try restore.
Thanks

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: biodiesel
Originally Posted By: Spyder7

It would also be interesting to see these numbers posted. I have the ones for Pennzoil's 10W30 Platinum from their product data sheet. If I can dig the numbers up for Rotella 10W30 I'd like to compare them side by side. The HTHS, NOACK, and Flashpoint for PP 10W30 are among the best I've seen, and why I chose it (price also a factor) as my summer oil for next year. I don't think 10W30 Rotella's scores are better (it may have a higher HTHS though, I'll concede that), which brings me back to ZDDP and moly, as it will have more of those.

-Spyder


Here you go Spyder. I did a thread on Rotella a few months back and posted the links to all their available T5 oils.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1888802/ (thread)

http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-56.pdf (T5 10w30/10w40)


Thanks for the links. Compared T5 10W30 with PP 10W30 and, additives aside (as thees are an unknown for T5 right now), they are pretty similar. If I took a guess I'd say they both used the same, or similar, base oils.

-Spyder