1. Camry rear brakes: replaced rotor and pads with Toyota OE. original brakes (rear) untouched for 6 years, 112K miles. caliper pins stuck. what I found was that the "wear sensor" thingy (clips) were worn down and did not actually give a warning scratch sound. Also, I really don't like the parking brake (brake in the rotor hat), because it's not self-adjust; have to be done manually, and hard to get both sides adjusted to the same position. Plus, you just can't see the start wheel at all thru that little hole once the rotor is replaced.
2. Mazda3: 122K miles, replaced original spark plugs, no problem there, but found one wire insulation nicked (can't figure out why or how), shows a bit of copper. these are not high voltage, it's coil of plug. Used 3M 2228 tape to seal it.
3. mazda3: passenger side lower control arm replaced with OE part (when it comes to suspension parts, OE all the way). the forward bolt removal/installation: remove the transmission horizontal bolt and rotate the engine forward for about an inch. I also removed the AC compressor cover to avoid moving the engine too much. I was working by myself, so I used the scissor jack to rotate and hold the engine against the subframe. The ball joint release was another hiccup, even with the special tool. The ball stem was pushed down into the pitch, but would not fully release. I use a bolt (inch long) with about 4 nuts for form a "cylinder" and placed it in between the tool tip and the ball stem, and pressed it all the way out. one more thing: get a new OE pinch bolt just in case, and also remember to fully tighten the LCA bolts while the suspension is fully laden, you can disconnect the sway bar link to do it. wheel alignment to follow.
Happy motoring.
2. Mazda3: 122K miles, replaced original spark plugs, no problem there, but found one wire insulation nicked (can't figure out why or how), shows a bit of copper. these are not high voltage, it's coil of plug. Used 3M 2228 tape to seal it.
3. mazda3: passenger side lower control arm replaced with OE part (when it comes to suspension parts, OE all the way). the forward bolt removal/installation: remove the transmission horizontal bolt and rotate the engine forward for about an inch. I also removed the AC compressor cover to avoid moving the engine too much. I was working by myself, so I used the scissor jack to rotate and hold the engine against the subframe. The ball joint release was another hiccup, even with the special tool. The ball stem was pushed down into the pitch, but would not fully release. I use a bolt (inch long) with about 4 nuts for form a "cylinder" and placed it in between the tool tip and the ball stem, and pressed it all the way out. one more thing: get a new OE pinch bolt just in case, and also remember to fully tighten the LCA bolts while the suspension is fully laden, you can disconnect the sway bar link to do it. wheel alignment to follow.
Happy motoring.