Shaeffer Oil beats others for my Honda 1.5 TDI 2018 Earth Dreams Engine......

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Go into a bodybuilding forum and start telling people you increased your max deadlift 15 lbs. by mixing your protein shake with Perrier instead of tap water.

Do you think you're gonna get a bunch of guys saying "Great! I'm happy for you!" or will the general sentiment be "That's not how it works, bro"?

I don't care what oil the guy runs. Just like mixing your protein powder with Perrier: If that's what floats your boat, cool. Attempting to pass off suspect claims as fact? Well, that's a different story. There are enough people on BITOG that know better or at least know enough to question it. Outlandish claims with no backing don't get far without someone calling them out.
FWIW a mere 15 lb increase is a bit of a joke to begin with.
 
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On a related note: I have been dealing with excessive fuel dilution and oil usage on a new engine in the Ford in my signature. I have just changed oil brands. I will report in a couple months with my casual observations. If this oil brand change doesn't fix this issue, I, like the O.P. stated, might have to consider selling my car - which in normal market would be costly.
I have never had excessive fuel dilution problems on a good running, F.I. engine.
I am hoping this different brand of oil will "do something" like un-stick rings and/or improve the dynamic sealing. Stuck rings may not even be the issue, though it would be a traditional cause. But with the new D.I and High compression an high pressure injection near TDC who knows what is really going on unless you have a windowed engine and high speed camera in a test lab. There is likely less dynamic sealing in D.I as in Port Injection where there is fuel wash on the compression stroke and a possibly improved sealing due to a considerable fuel-oil mixture around and behind the top two rings**

This is not a profession oil forum. I would hazard a guess we are well over 75% laypersons here. I understand the need to keep unfounded or suspect claims under control, but I hope we can do so with some civility and respect.

** note: Engine crank journals are slinging oil (that is leaving the bearings during the intake and power stroke) up the cylinder wall - actually more at "fogging".
 
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On a related note: I have been dealing with excessive fuel dilution and oil usage on a new engine in the Ford in my signature. I have just changed oil brands. I will report in a couple months with my casual observations. If this oil brand change doesn't fix this issue, I, like the O.P. stated, might have to consider selling my car - which in normal market would be costly.
I have never had excessive fuel dilution problems on a good running, F.I. engine.
I am hoping this different brand of oil will "do something" like un-stick rings and/or improve the dynamic sealing. Stuck rings may not even be the issue, though it would be a traditional cause. But with the new D.I and High compression an high pressure injection near TDC who knows what is really going on unless you have a windowed engine and high speed camera in a test lab. There is likely less dynamic sealing in D.I as in Port Injection where there is fuel wash on the compression stroke and a possibly improved sealing due to a considerable fuel-oil mixture around and behind the top two rings**

This is not a profession oil forum. I would hazard a guess we are well over 75% laypersons here. I understand the need to keep unfounded or suspect claims under control, but I hope we can do so with some civility and respect.

** note: Engine crank journals are slinging oil (that is leaving the bearings during the intake and power stroke) up the cylinder wall - actually more at "fogging".
I personally don't think its a ring seal problem. Its a high pressure fuel spray in a cold engine. Cold weather , short trips= fuel dilution. I have it in my mazda in winter.

I don't see how changing brands will help, its simply low viscosity fuel mixing with oil. My solution is using a 0w40 oil in winter and short 2k oci's.

hopefully the 0w40 will be close to a 30 with the fuel dilution.
 

Zee09

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Interesting tidbit..................hmm
I just used this in my ope diesel and read this although I have no dog in this hunt 😳


Citgo Lubricants has introduced Citgard 700 Synthetic Blend 10W-30 CJ-4/SM heavy-duty engine oil. The company said the “advanced synthetic blend “offers improved cold weather cranking performance, simplifies inventory by enhancing winter and summer performance, and exceeds requirements for both API CJ-4 and passenger car API SM credentials.

“With state-of-the-art wear control and patented Citgo SootArrest technology, Citgard700 Synthetic Blend 10W-30 offers protection for newer ERG engines that tend to have higher soot levels than even those operating in the most severe conditions,” said Mark Betner, product manager, Citgo Lubricants. “The synthetic blend is also well suited to protect against engine oil oxidation and fuel dilution, especially in fleets operating greater than 5% biodiesel fuel
.”

According to Betner, when the new oil is combined with the Citgo LubeAlert HD Oil Analysis program, cost-saving benefits are offered “through preventative maintenance, warranty protection, greater unit resale value and optimized engine oil service intervals. Plus, it is an excellent alternative for urban or city transit fleets operating on compressed natural gas.”

For more information contact the company at: [email protected].
 
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I personally don't think its a ring seal problem. Its a high pressure fuel spray in a cold engine. Cold weather , short trips= fuel dilution. I have it in my mazda in winter.

I don't see how changing brands will help, its simply low viscosity fuel mixing with oil. My solution is using a 0w40 oil in winter and short 2k oci's.

hopefully the 0w40 will be close to a 30 with the fuel dilution.
Mine was worse in the Summer! The factory fill run across winter wasn't too bad, Go figure!
But I also got a bad tank of E10 gas this Summer and that may have case overfueling.
I wish fuel tanks had a petcock on them to drain out water!
I suppose I could always drill a hole and patch it with Wrigley's Spearmint :)
 

OVERKILL

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Interesting tidbit..................hmm
I just used this in my ope diesel and read this although I have no dog in this hunt 😳


Citgo Lubricants has introduced Citgard 700 Synthetic Blend 10W-30 CJ-4/SM heavy-duty engine oil. The company said the “advanced synthetic blend “offers improved cold weather cranking performance, simplifies inventory by enhancing winter and summer performance, and exceeds requirements for both API CJ-4 and passenger car API SM credentials.

“With state-of-the-art wear control and patented Citgo SootArrest technology, Citgard700 Synthetic Blend 10W-30 offers protection for newer ERG engines that tend to have higher soot levels than even those operating in the most severe conditions,” said Mark Betner, product manager, Citgo Lubricants. “The synthetic blend is also well suited to protect against engine oil oxidation and fuel dilution, especially in fleets operating greater than 5% biodiesel fuel.”

According to Betner, when the new oil is combined with the Citgo LubeAlert HD Oil Analysis program, cost-saving benefits are offered “through preventative maintenance, warranty protection, greater unit resale value and optimized engine oil service intervals. Plus, it is an excellent alternative for urban or city transit fleets operating on compressed natural gas.”

For more information contact the company at: [email protected].

Yeah, so the oil is supposed to perform better in the presence of fuel dilution. Doesn't have any bearing on mitigating the mechanism of fuel dilution itself however.
 

SammyChevelleTypeS3

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Yeah, so the oil is supposed to perform better in the presence of fuel dilution. Doesn't have any bearing on mitigating the mechanism of fuel dilution itself however.
Folks, what is so strange about this LSPI and fuel dilution is that we all know and can prove (just by examining the oil) it IS happening. YET what I can't get over in my case is just how great the car performs. It runs fantastic, like a swiss watch and is so quiet you can't tell its running. I have not built an engine since my last small block Chevy 400cui (late 70s) and do not know all the workings of the new modern DI and Turbo engines. My layman guess is the hi pressure designs plus the water thin oils that the manufacturers are forcing on the public due to CAFE standards are doing a combination on us. The hi press and the thin oil are allowing the fuel dilution. There is "no repair" or "quick fix" I know of that they can do for all of us who bought these vehicles. My only hope was to research oils.... looking for oils designed to prevent or eliminate LSPI. Thinking they could lessen the issue. YET I am 100% aware that is not a fix to a design problem. I am just trying to use either an oil with proper additives that clings better to slow down the dilution. Those who won't believe this can look it up. Oil is not only for lubrication. Oil is a coolant and a seal around pistons. The only thing short of selling my wife's car is this.... watch oil often for fuel dilution, change often, use the best oil I can that may slow the problem. So I am doing all of that. Yet also have that nagging feeling.... "so I am doing all I know how to maintain my vehicle as I always have YET with this new LSPI / fuel dilution will my car implode or will I get the same near 200,000 miles we usually get from Hondas?"
 
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You don’t look at the oil and tell that LSPI happened, you look at a wrecked engine and tell that it happened.

And besides some sort of mechanical repair or change to the engine, fuel dilution is only mitigated by higher grade oil or more frequent oil changes.
 

SammyChevelleTypeS3

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NO KIDDING. Really? Duh....we caan't see LSPI? Who said you can. So your answer is sue the manufacturer ? or throw the car away?
Oh. Please tell us the recommended mechanical repair or change to the engine that you are aware of? thanks....
 
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The hi press and the thin oil are allowing the fuel dilution.
That's not what's causing fuel dilution.
I am just trying to use either an oil with proper additives that clings better to slow down the dilution.
Oil will not slow down fuel dilution, oil is not the problem with fuel dilution. A heavier oil my offset the dilution, but the same dilution will be there.
 
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SammyChevelleTypeS3

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That's not what's causing fuel dilution.

Oil will not slow down fuel dilution, oil is not the problem with fuel dilution. A heavier oil my offset the dilution, but the same dilution will be there.
So maybe I fooled myself because I realize now I did something I forgot about. I stopped using the ECON mode in the car except for long drives on highway. I suspect that is warming the engine faster. I am prone to sticking with a certain oil now due to the add package which I hope will prevent engine wear in the long run. I just hope I am not making my first bad auto mistake in keeping this vehicle now that I know about the issues with the Di engines. I know the only true insight is oil sampling and testing to look for metal along with the fuel that is getting in the oil. Has anyone done those tests? Really asking? Only way to know if pre - internal wear without opening the engine. What is encouraging in there is no rash of hundreds of folks bringing Di engine cars back with blown or worn engines. (YET.... I know it could happen)
 

SammyChevelleTypeS3

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But you just said this a few minutes earlier.
I surrrender I mis spoke. I meant we know about fuel dilution. People can tell there is too much fluid when they drain and can tell there is fuel in the oil. No we can not see LSPI. YES if it is bad enough you WILL hear kaboom when she blows.
 
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Has anyone done those tests? Really asking? Only way to know if pre - internal wear without opening the engine. What is encouraging in there is no rash of hundreds of folks bringing Di engine cars back with blown or worn engines. (YET.... I know it could happen)
With the exception of coolant contamination, a UOA is valuable as a measure of how the OIL is holding up, not the engine.
 

SammyChevelleTypeS3

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Thank you. I know what a regular UOA is used for and have used them in the past. So are you saying there is no test or way to tell if there is metal contamination in an oil sample. Hmmm.
People are talking like LSPI will explode your engine every time. No that is not the case. But I was led to believe that the fuel dilution was a result of LSPI? Is it too hi injector pressure causing the LSPI and does that contribute to the fuel dilution? Anyone here really know or are we throwing stuff on the wall to see what sticks? I have to be in the wrong forum. Its my fault. I expected people (current, ex mechanics, engineers etc....) to discuss not just oil but new engines and cause and effects. No one has stated or explained to any of us exactly how and why the Low Spark Pre Ignition is occurring and or does that have anything to do with oil/fuel contamination / dilution. I have stated I do not know. I have ideas but that is all.
 
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NO KIDDING. Really? Duh....we caan't see LSPI? Who said you can. So your answer is sue the manufacturer ? or throw the car away?
Oh. Please tell us the recommended mechanical repair or change to the engine that you are aware of? thanks....
Sometimes people need to look back at what they just wrote rather than focusing on writing more.
 
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