Settling as filtration prep a long drain interval

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Oh, I always forget to mention that here a jug of Mobil 1 is more than 100 bucks (35 bucks a quart actually). Sorry, that's why a keep saving "some coins"... If you guys have it priced as bananas, would you bother too much to save some fine resources? That's a good environmental etiquet huh?
 
You didn't really answer my questions.

How, as in by what means, did you determine that long drain synthetic use has elevated "particle count". What "particles"?
 
First and second line, 2 posts above, there is the answer to your question. And I use K&N air filters ... Now you got it ...
 
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If you've never sent a sample out to a lab to be analyzed, then dumping oil into a glass bottle and merely looking at it is useless.
 
So, do you want this times 6 (about one ounce), running in your engine for 10k+ miles? I don't need it to be analised. I do analise myself. Carbon + sand grit + oxidated oil? + fuel byproducts, mostly ...

 
Note that in the first week there was NOTHING at all in the container bottom. It took almost 2 weeks to start to show just a little. And after 4 months I had a thick carpert at the bottom of the big bottle. The dispersant do a really good job suspending all of that homogenically.
 
Originally Posted By: stickybuns
Whatman 602 too expensive! They want you to buy a pack of 100. Maybe a roll of Toilet Paper will work, yet what microns? As in, maybe a coffee filter lined with many sheets of TP on the inside?


Cofee filter is a 40 microns, not good enough and cloggs quickly and is really slow. I'd say, don't even try, I did that for you. Not worth! That's why I keep decanting. It's free and i have time to run those 5k miles anyway ...
 
You're making an unscientific mountain out of a molehill in 20 year old vehicles.

Maybe you should focus on the source of the "particles" if it's so important. It's probably your K&N filter.
 
Originally Posted By: stickybuns
Whatman 602 too expensive! They want you to buy a pack of 100. Maybe a roll of Toilet Paper will work, yet what microns? As in, maybe a coffee filter lined with many sheets of TP on the inside?

The Frantz company makes an engine oil filter kit that uses toilet paper.
Why not just install a Frantz TP filter?
 
Originally Posted By: Rosetta

The paper filter media has some kind of ash, that I don't see as a good stuff. But, whata a heck the oil is already kindda dirty from use already, why bother for a very little contamination? rsrsrs
They do have low-ash filter paper in some Whatmans. The idea to do it with a coffee filter and a stack of toilet paper stacked in it, now I don't know what might come out.
 
Originally Posted By: Rosetta
Originally Posted By: stickybuns
Whatman 602 too expensive! They want you to buy a pack of 100. Maybe a roll of Toilet Paper will work, yet what microns? As in, maybe a coffee filter lined with many sheets of TP on the inside?


Cofee filter is a 40 microns, not good enough and cloggs quickly and is really slow. I'd say, don't even try, I did that for you. Not worth! That's why I keep decanting. It's free and i have time to run those 5k miles anyway ...


How do you know coffee filters do 40 microns, is there a listed spec for that somewhere?

Here's another idea: The Fram Ultra glass-fiber oil filter gets out 80% of all particles at 5 microns and larger, and of course its as you drive. Also, the Micro Green oil filter gets out particles from 3 microns and bigger, again as you drive, built into the oil filter media. Another note: In another bitog discussion, we found out that carbon soot particles from direct-injection DI engines are in the 0.001 to 0.3 micron range, so they float and won't filter out either.
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
You didn't really answer my questions.

How, as in by what means, did you determine that long drain synthetic use has elevated "particle count". What "particles"?


I've seen particle build-ups in long oil change intervals. Particles are from the carbon soot accumulations, and the sand/dirt below about 100 microns that the air filter lets in and makes it past the rings. Anything smaller than around 30 microns or so (depending on oil filter choice!) just hangs around, accumulates to infinity.
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
You're making an unscientific mountain out of a molehill in 20 year old vehicles.

Maybe you should focus on the source of the "particles" if it's so important. It's probably your K&N filter.


So you say "probably" (?!) it is my K&N filter, than it is probably Sand, right? So if a lab don't tell you that you do nothing because yer Carl Sagan skeptical and let the goo there, huh? j/k KKKkk
 
Originally Posted By: boundarylayer
Originally Posted By: Rosetta
Originally Posted By: stickybuns
Whatman 602 too expensive! They want you to buy a pack of 100. Maybe a roll of Toilet Paper will work, yet what microns? As in, maybe a coffee filter lined with many sheets of TP on the inside?


Cofee filter is a 40 microns, not good enough and cloggs quickly and is really slow. I'd say, don't even try, I did that for you. Not worth! That's why I keep decanting. It's free and i have time to run those 5k miles anyway ...


How do you know coffee filters do 40 microns, is there a listed spec for that somewhere?

Here's another idea: The Fram Ultra glass-fiber oil filter gets out 80% of all particles at 5 microns and larger, and of course its as you drive. Also, the Micro Green oil filter gets out particles from 3 microns and bigger, again as you drive, built into the oil filter media. Another note: In another bitog discussion, we found out that carbon soot particles from direct-injection DI engines are in the 0.001 to 0.3 micron range, so they float and won't filter out either.


Yea, a long time ago I googled and found that the absolute for cofee filter is 40 microns. The soot below 1 micron doesn't bother me much, but the metals and dust powder above 3 microns does. I can't buy those filter with fine synthetic media in here, they're imported and endup costing a lot after shipping and tax ... I'm stuck with decantation, man!
 
Originally Posted By: Rosetta
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
You're making an unscientific mountain out of a molehill in 20 year old vehicles.

Maybe you should focus on the source of the "particles" if it's so important. It's probably your K&N filter.


So you say "probably" (?!) it is my K&N filter, than it is probably Sand, right? So if a lab don't tell you that you do nothing because yer Carl Sagan skeptical and let the goo there, huh? j/k KKKkk


There is nothing in a long drain synthetic that will cause visible damage in a well running engine. If you have solids in the amount you're talking, then you should find the cause of the issue, not filter your oil with coffee filters.
K&N's are known to filter poorly if they are not properly serviced. You could also have a PCV issue or vacuum leak.

Many members here have been doing 10,000mi+ intervals for decades without issue. I do them and some of my customers do them with no particles or damage whatsoever. I recommend you send out a non-tampered with used sample from the engine for testing. It will give you a baseline and possibly point to a source of the infiltration.
 
Ok, what about additive depletion just for decantation? Is sitin oil lossing detergents and dispersants attached to the particles at the bottom of container?
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: stickybuns
Whatman 602 too expensive! They want you to buy a pack of 100. Maybe a roll of Toilet Paper will work, yet what microns? As in, maybe a coffee filter lined with many sheets of TP on the inside?

The Frantz company makes an engine oil filter kit that uses toilet paper.
Why not just install a Frantz TP filter?


I'm thinking of getting the latest oil filter: The Fram Ultra Charmin model.
 
I haven't seen this mentioned yet, so I'll bring it up.

You say a big jug of oil is 100 bucks, what about filters? Can you get those cheap online or elsewhere?

Why not keep the oil in for 10k miles or more, and just change the filter every 5k miles?

Use a Fram Tough Guard filter, which has incredible filtration, and replace it every 5,000 miles. That will catch your particulates great.

-- That said, if I were you, I'd also try to find the source of such a high amount of particulates. The K&N filter would be a large contributing factor to this.
 
Ah Tough Guard is hard to find only imported at ebayor amazon. A 10 bucks filter gets here at 55 easy. Even tough is beter to change the whole oil. How is the absolute an total micron filtration on these? Like 15 microns? If that sill large amounts floating around ... My K&N has 10k and 12k miles from factory 1st oilying as they came new. That is the best serice it will ever have, I don't think is just sand. It is normal that amount of [censored] in the oil. Let it sit long enought and yall see that carpet at the bottom of container. Trust me there's nothing wrong with my cars.
 
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