Seized Bolt on 97 Honda Civic Rear Trailing Arm

JC1

Joined
Nov 29, 2008
Messages
6,783
Location
Oshawa, Ontario Canada
Hi guys,

I'm working on my 97 Honda Civic. Replacing the rear compensating arms and trailing arm bushings. I've been soaking the bolts with ATF and Acetone for more than a week. Today started to get the air tools to the bolts. Got the driver side bolt out that goes into the Lower control arm. Was a pain in the neck, but after 4-5 times of applying heat (Mapp Gas) and more penetrating fluid etc. Got that bolt out.

When I went to the right side tried the same thing. This side seems tighter in. The air Impact wasn't budging it and it looks like the impact gun has been skipping off the right bolt. Those sides started rounding off a bit and now when I try to go at it with the impact gun (I have a 60 gallon air compressor) and a few different air impact guns (HF Earthquake 1/2 inch) and a Stubby Pro-Point gun. I kept trying to hit it with heat for 30-45 seconds at a time, spraying it with more ATF and Acetone and a wire brush.

I've attached pics, you can see the sides rounding off a bit. What else should I try (Cutting a slot and using an air chisel on it), or cutting it out with a sawzall?
 

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I was told by racecar mechanics Dry Ice on the bolt. Use insulated gloves. It should cause the bolt to shrink making it easier to remove. Bridge bolts are shipped in dry ice and installed immediately as they expand. Good luck.
 
Thanks, but I don't know where I'd get dry ice around here. There are only 5-6 threads exposed at the one end and not much clearance around it.
 
Thanks, but I don't know where I'd get dry ice around here. There are only 5-6 threads exposed at the one end and not much clearance around it.

Some harris teeter grocery stores have it. Leather gloves and a small cooler. You can also use dry ice to ease out dull dings that don't have a sharp center.

It's about -100 f.
 
The good news is that it has unscrewed from the nut.

But as commonly happens, the center part of the bolt is rusted to the metal sleeve in the bushing. Cut through the bushing and the bolt to liberate the parts. Use a hacksaw or sawzall on the side near the bolt head. Then new bushing and new bolt. The bushing is now wrecked anyway from twisting the sleeve.
 
Someone on BITOG once said something like, "Liquid wrench is the smell of dispair." Feeling for you... I've been there.

The place the bolt is stuck is where the shank goes through the bushing. I would torch or saw through the bolt and maybe burn out the bushing, leaving a stub so you can vice grip the bolt out of the inner part of the bracket.
 
Thanks Guys,

I have to see what parts need replacing including bushings etc. I might just leave it for now and get all the replacement bushings and bolts first before getting it all apart. Three of the bolts on both sides, I was able to get loose with heat.
 
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