Sears compressor and impact tool deal

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Looks quite good If you can stand the noise of a diaphram oil-less compressor.


Is it that much louder? I don't know the advantages between oil/oil-less compressors. Now I know sound is one!
 
Looks like a good buy. It will be loud as heck. Id put it in a compressor room or at the other side of your shop. These things are like pressure washers. The direct drive ones are waayy louder than the belt drive ones cause they spin faster and usually are less industrial so they are thinner so there is alot more noise.
 
I have a slightly larger direct drive oil-less compressor - and yeah, it's loud...but with the amount that I use it, a few times per month...it's lasted 10 years and is in great shape.

That decision is one of budget. I sure would love an oil-type, belt drive compressor...but I spray finishes, and the oil-less is nice. Further, if you plan to run a die-grinder, or cut-off tool continuously, you'll find the capacity of this one inadequate (again, for me, impact wrench, spraying, tire-filling, it's great...but a cut-off tool is an air hog...and on a big job, I have to wait for the compressor to catch up...).

I think you'll be disappointed with the power of the impact wrench though, looks small, OK for tires, but not for big suspension bolts, rusted parts, etc...

I would let your budget be your guide. Personally, a compressor about this size and a good quality impact gun, like an Ingersoll-Rand would be my recommendation. If you own a shop and have to live with the noise day in/day out - then I would go for the oiled, belt drive compressor, in 240V...and spend about 3x as much...

One other thought: whatever you get, ditch the stupid little drain valve and plumb in a short (12") piece of pipe to a ball valve so that you can drain it easily with just a 1/4 turn on the ball valve that is easy to reach. Keeping it drained after use is the key to long tank life and long tool life...
 
Last edited:
Yeah and they are not very powerful to run those air tools very long at all.I bought one a couple weeks ago and am really dissappointed i was running it on a extension cord and it barely wanted to run.It does better without it but even using the air nozzle to blow with it runs out of wind quick.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
One other thought: whatever you get, ditch the stupid little drain valve and plumb in a short (12") piece of pipe to a ball valve so that you can drain it easily with just a 1/4 turn on the ball valve that is easy to reach. Keeping it drained after use is the key to long tank life and long tool life...


Good point - have been meaning to do this on mine for a while.

What is the thread type for those little drain valves? Do you use swagelok to make the rubing?
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Astro14
One other thought: whatever you get, ditch the stupid little drain valve and plumb in a short (12") piece of pipe to a ball valve so that you can drain it easily with just a 1/4 turn on the ball valve that is easy to reach. Keeping it drained after use is the key to long tank life and long tool life...


Good point - have been meaning to do this on mine for a while.

What is the thread type for those little drain valves? Do you use swagelok to make the rubing?


You mean the petcock valve that gets a tiny piece of rust in it while draining the water/air and then never shuts off 100% and you hear a slight whistle from time to time? That valve?
 
Also consider a cordless impact. I have one and grab it first, although I do have air tools. My cordless Dewalt impact wrench is 300 ft-lbs.

You can get a junky pneumatic wrench at HF for maybe $19.95. And a good one from them for $100.

A combo deal may not be that good. For an impact wrench you need to look at ft-lbs of torque.

Look up a $400 IR one (on Amazon) and compare the one in the Sears package. I like multiple settings for torque. Some have double hammers. Expect more torque in reverse than forward. Some are fancier than a plain steel housing. It will get dropped and dragged on the floor, and carried by the whip.
 
Yes, I mean the petcock valve...mine would always hiss, then stop as some bit of water would plug it, then hiss again...and while I could always close it OK when in use, I never felt like it was completely draining.

For JHZR2 - mine was 1/4" NPT, so I bought an elbow, 6" of straight pipe, an adapter, and a 1/2" ball valve...still loud when it drains but it drains quick and a lot more water comes out. I know that there is potentially a lot of leverage on that 1/4" elbow, so I am careful to just twist the valve handle, and not push down...
 
Thanks guys for all of the good advice. I am going to hold off on the Sears deal. This unit is for my home garage but I do want a good one. I am going to find a oil/belt-driven compressor, now I just need to think about size.

Then again, the electric impact wrenches seem to make good sense too!
 
For occasional tire rotations and moderately sticky bolts, my cheap-o Northern Tool cordless impact has done very well. It's nowhere near as powerful as the DeWalt unit, but is enough for most bolts on either of our smaller cars.

That combined with a corded Dremel and a 12v air compressor for refilling tires (slowly) have met my needs adequately to date.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: rk1407
Thanks guys for all of the good advice. I am going to hold off on the Sears deal. This unit is for my home garage but I do want a good one. I am going to find a oil/belt-driven compressor, now I just need to think about size.

Then again, the electric impact wrenches seem to make good sense too!


The cordless impact wrench (wrench only) can be a good buy if you already have other tools and kind of have a "standard" battery for yourself. That was my case as I had other Dewalt tools and 18V batteries already.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom