Picked up a bidirectional scan tool

[1 SX]

Figured it’s time to start exploring and purchase a “beginners” bidirectional scan tool to use for more advanced diagnostics, easier trouble shooting, and more in depth analysis of the systems.

Some research later and an accidental marketplace find, it appears the Ancel MK808BT is actually a OTOfix D1 sub brand, but with the same exact software as the ancel.

The initial results are very positive for the price point. I picked up this device off the marketplace for $230. It is brand new in the case used once. The original owner bought it to use the directional capabilities on newer European vehicles…. We all know that situation, so they had to upgrade to the Pro Max version to get that for the European systems and listed this one for a very reasonable price.

It has all updates until late 2025 included. While I don’t need it for the newest vehicles on the market, I was really surprised with the amount of capabilities for the Hyundais Kia’s. And again for the price point makes this device a awesome companion: the software is logically laid out, the hardware is pretty smooth with its performance… it reads the information from the vehicle pretty quick, even though it’s wireless Bluetooth obd2 connector. Battery life is unstoppable., and the Wi-Fi connectivity is over 440 Mbps on 5G WiFi, and can download gigabytes wirth of updates in a matter of minutes.

Honestly, at the end of the day, I would recommend this scanner, especially if you could find one on the used market. Yes, the screen resolution is a little large, but the text is clear, and images are sharp. I also think that helps with the amazing battery life. It also came with a factory installed glass screen protector, that in itself is a huge win in my opinion, as it shows attention to quality and detail from the company. (Ancel)

I will post a couple more pictures of some of the available functions for these Hyundai and Kia’s later but initial testing I was able to read all tpms sensors,(psi, frequency, and battery level ect) adjust “hidden” controls such as automatic door locks at certain speed and horn feedback, really get nitty gritty into details on the ecu, could read and copy keyfob codes, activate individual modulars, reset the adaptive values of multiple sensors such as throttle and SAS, tapped into the airbag system, ABS system, traction control system, and again all information was able to be read.

Will update soon with a more in-depth review, as there are couple other vehicles with CEL lit up I would like to try this out on such as older mid 00’s Chrysler and Chevys.

To be continued, and something tells me this is only the beginning

 

[D60]

Figured it’s time to start exploring and purchase a “beginners” bidirectional scan tool to use for more advanced diagnostics, easier trouble shooting, and more in depth analysis of the systems.

Some research later and an accidental marketplace find, it appears the Ancel MK808BT is actually a OTOfix D1 sub brand, but with the same exact software as the ancel.

The initial results are very positive for the price point. I picked up this device off the marketplace for $230. It is brand new in the case used once. The original owner bought it to use the directional capabilities on newer European vehicles…. We all know that situation, so they had to upgrade to the Pro Max version to get that for the European systems and listed this one for a very reasonable price.

It has all updates until late 2025 included. While I don’t need it for the newest vehicles on the market, I was really surprised with the amount of capabilities for the Hyundais Kia’s. And again for the price point makes this device a awesome companion: the software is logically laid out, the hardware is pretty smooth with its performance… it reads the information from the vehicle pretty quick, even though it’s wireless Bluetooth obd2 connector. Battery life is unstoppable., and the Wi-Fi connectivity is over 440 Mbps on 5G WiFi, and can download gigabytes wirth of updates in a matter of minutes.

Honestly, at the end of the day, I would recommend this scanner, especially if you could find one on the used market. Yes, the screen resolution is a little large, but the text is clear, and images are sharp. I also think that helps with the amazing battery life. It also came with a factory installed glass screen protector, that in itself is a huge win in my opinion, as it shows attention to quality and detail from the company. (Ancel)

I will post a couple more pictures of some of the available functions for these Hyundai and Kia’s later but initial testing I was able to read all tpms sensors,(psi, frequency, and battery level ect) adjust “hidden” controls such as automatic door locks at certain speed and horn feedback, really get nitty gritty into details on the ecu, could read and copy keyfob codes, activate individual modulars, reset the adaptive values of multiple sensors such as throttle and SAS, tapped into the airbag system, ABS system, traction control system, and again all information was able to be read.

Will update soon with a more in-depth review, as there are couple other vehicles with CEL lit up I would like to try this out on such as older mid 00’s Chrysler and Chevys.

To be continued, and something tells me this is only the beginning
View attachment 190424

If it'll pull ABS codes on '98-02 Rams I'd be VERY impressed. Then again, not many people need to.

Great deal for a tablet style scanner!!

 

[wtd]

I recently got an Otofix D1 and it's a very nice scanner for the price. It's Autel software. I wasn't aware that Ancel uses Autel software.

The only thing that I don't like about the D1 is once I updated it after receiving it, it had already used a majority of the hard drive space. I installed a SD card to increase storage.

 

[Donald]

I have the Auto Enginuity. (although I have not seen it since my move from NY to DE.) It requires a laptop.

If you have a Ford the FORSCAN application is an excellent bi-directional scanner. Can program key fobs.

Now if you have a boat you need a Diacom and that's a lot more expensive than scanners for automobiles.

 

[michaelluscher]

It looks a literal spitting image of the Autel that I just bought
You got a great deal, enjoy it

Try and succeed where I fail, mild profiting when working for others
You now have the ability to do some immobilizer and keyfob programming
And ABS/SRS scanning and clearing

I know H/K doesn't have on board remote fob programming, and many people only have 1 or no remote fob, which means the cars bricked after the Kia Boyz update

Might make a good side hustle for you

 

[GMBoy]

Sure looks like a relabeled Autel - I have a top level Autel and they do darn near everything! Best scan tool I own (never another Snap On) and I own about 20 lol

 

[1 SX]

I have to give a little more detailed update on this.


I have spent a little while with the device on the H/K vehicles plus a couple newer vehicles into the mix. Although this post is mainly in regards to the forte.

Yes, this unit reads near every bit of data, but the I think the “true” bi-directional functionality is pretty limited. I was on the fence to actually follow through with seeing if settings would initiate, and stay. Unfortunately most times I get communication error.. I just kinda thought the steering angle reset calibration was a basic function esp on the old forte but currently I have yet to have it succeed… I also went and changed a couple of the customization options under the ECU, such as to have the door locks unlock when parking brake is on, but unfortunately none of those settings would stay either and would “revert” to Key Out.

Basic commands in the bi-directional functionality do work, though, such as send commanding to individual lights on the cluster or activating wipers and door locks ect, also the unit does display the data from it appears all sensors. That itself was worth the price that I paid…. On the other hand… if I purchased this unit at full retail, I believe the value proposition would’ve been a lot less and overall would been slightly disappointed. I kinda just assumed that most functions would work with the old H/K cars, and expected most functions not to work with much newer vehicles again given the price point.

Overall I absolutely would still recommend this unit but only if you can buy it for an extremely reasonable price on maybe the used market.. a very strong point of this unit is capability to display information data overload, if needed. Basic commands also do work such as testing purge valves, relays, and other basic engine components.

One last thing that I never knew but was under the impression is: one diagnostics computer does not. “do it all“ and some brands have more/better connectivity with some car brands vs other brands and model combinations ect. Something I will keep In my mind.

Picture time!

Here is the non working SAS calibration mode

Under service, the unit does display all these options….. but only about 4 or so actually work. I did not test brake bleed, but verified it does pull the tpms data, is capable of throttle adaptation reset, and reading the key id, tpms id codes, ecu software / part number date ect.

Under hot functions, there are few options but all options do work.

Under control unit of sub systems now again not too many options but most of these do work, at the minimum the unit is able to retrieve the data.

 

[1 SX]

And yes! It’s a sub brand of Autel

 

[Walter1982]

Hi 1sx

I have a 2020 Kia Forte EX 2.0L Nu and I'm looking to buy a good scan tool.

I'm new to working on cars, but I am devoted. I have been doing oil changes for 2 years now and recently have upgraded my DIY skill by doing a coolant flush, throttle body deep clean, new spark plugs/ignition coils, and I just changed all 3 engine mounts. The car has about 112K miles and runs very well! For a long time I was relying on the service manual at KIFORTE.COM but recently purchased a 3 year subscription for ALLDATA service manual.

So, as I've been doing some procedures using the ALLDATA manuals, I noticed that sometimes ALLDATA calls for a KDS scan tool. I'm not really sure what that is, I'm new to this. For example, when I was doing a coolant flush, the service manual asks you to hook up your KDS so that you can put the car in "burp mode" to burp the air out of the coolant system. Since I do not have this tool, I had to burp the car manually, but I am concerned how less effective this is as using a KDS.

I am planning on doing a brake job, including bleeding the system, and I've been reading about how to bleed brakes, but recently learned that even if you bleed the brakes old fluid is still stuck somewhere in the ABS? I'm not sure. Again, the ALLDATA service manual calls to use KDS to initiate bleeding. There's no shortage of brake bleeding videos on youtube, I have seen many. However is using the KDS to put the car in "bleed mode" more effective than doing it manually? If I am upgrading from DOT 3 to DOT 4, what is the concern with old fluid left over in the ABS system?

It seems there's many procedures that call for using KDS.

So, I wanted to ask you about this scan tool you've been using. Is is the same as KDS? With your tool, can I put the car in burp mode, or bleed mode? is your tool as effective as KDS?

Thank you!

 

[Donald]

Hi 1sx

I have a 2020 Kia Forte EX 2.0L Nu and I'm looking to buy a good scan tool.

I'm new to working on cars, but I am devoted. I have been doing oil changes for 2 years now and recently have upgraded my DIY skill by doing a coolant flush, throttle body deep clean, new spark plugs/ignition coils, and I just changed all 3 engine mounts. The car has about 112K miles and runs very well! For a long time I was relying on the service manual at KIFORTE.COM but recently purchased a 3 year subscription for ALLDATA service manual.

So, as I've been doing some procedures using the ALLDATA manuals, I noticed that sometimes ALLDATA calls for a KDS scan tool. I'm not really sure what that is, I'm new to this. For example, when I was doing a coolant flush, the service manual asks you to hook up your KDS so that you can put the car in "burp mode" to burp the air out of the coolant system. Since I do not have this tool, I had to burp the car manually, but I am concerned how less effective this is as using a KDS.

I am planning on doing a brake job, including bleeding the system, and I've been reading about how to bleed brakes, but recently learned that even if you bleed the brakes old fluid is still stuck somewhere in the ABS? I'm not sure. Again, the ALLDATA service manual calls to use KDS to initiate bleeding. There's no shortage of brake bleeding videos on youtube, I have seen many. However is using the KDS to put the car in "bleed mode" more effective than doing it manually? If I am upgrading from DOT 3 to DOT 4, what is the concern with old fluid left over in the ABS system?

It seems there's many procedures that call for using KDS.

So, I wanted to ask you about this scan tool you've been using. Is is the same as KDS? With your tool, can I put the car in burp mode, or bleed mode? is your tool as effective as KDS?

Thank you!

I would focus of learning how to do a basic brake job before you go out and buy a scanner and worry about completely bleeding the brake system. There is a lot to learn just doing the basic brake pads. Where to use a file to clean things up, where grease is needed and where never seize might be better. When you need new parts and when things can be reused.

I would suggest using the same spec brake fluid that's in their now. Suck out the fluid from the reservoir and refill. Then bleed (with a friend) at each wheel until the brake fluid looks new.

Don't overthink brake bleeding.

Put some PB Blaster on the bleeder screw before you start.

If your not in rust belt things will go much easier.

 

[Walter1982]

I would focus of learning how to do a basic brake job before you go out and buy a scanner and worry about completely bleeding the brake system. There is a lot to learn just doing the basic brake pads. Where to use a file to clean things up, where grease is needed and where never seize might be better. When you need new parts and when things can be reused.

I would suggest using the same spec brake fluid that's in their now. Suck out the fluid from the reservoir and refill. Then bleed (with a friend) at each wheel until the brake fluid looks new.

Don't overthink brake bleeding.

Put some PB Blaster on the bleeder screw before you start.

If your not in rust belt things will go much easier.

I understand the concern. I purchased new rotors and pads like 8 months ago, but have procrastinated installing them because I want to do a full brake haulover. Installing the pads and rotors seems to be the easy part, I want to disassemble the calipers, and deep clean everything, and lubricate wherever necessary, like the piston and the seals. I have been watching dozens of videos on youtube, I have the service manuals from KIFORTE.com and ALLDATA. I purchased new brake hardware, which is that little metal bracket that holds the pads, and also the tension spring that keeps the pads from rubbing on the rotor. I have purchased copper anti seize, ceramic silicone extreme, and silicon paste lubricants. I have also purchased new copper washers, where the brake line is attached to the caliper, it requires a copper washer on each side of the bolt. I have watched so many videos that I know where I need to remove or polish off any rust, where to apply the exact lubricant necessary. I have all the torque specs. I think for the pads/rotors/calipers job I am ready to go. However, I am stuck on the brake bleeding issue.

I purchased this Mityvac brake bleeding tool.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SQYUA?ie=UTF8&th=1

Here's a video on how it works.



This seems to be great choice to help bleed brakes.

I was ready to start this job until someone told me that when you bleed brakes there is some fluid left over in the ABS system, and what you have to do, is bleed the system, put in fresh fluid. Then you have to drive the car on gravel hard, in order to engage the ABS, so that the fluid in the ABS gets moved around with the new fluid, then after that you have to bleed the system again and put in fresh fluid.

This has complicated things for me. And the more I read about this the more I realize I need a scan tool to initiate the cars built-in bleeding abilities. From what I've seen in the ALLDATA service manual, the KDS is hooked up in order to fully bleed the system including the ABS as well.

Since I drive a lot (30k miles a year) and I live in South Florida, the car gets really hot and it's super humid down here. Therefore I feel upgrading to DOT4 is justified.

And you're right, I am overthinking it, because I want it done right the first time. I have had lots of success working on my car so far, and everytime I did a procedure (coolant flush, throttle body removed for deep cleaning, spark plugs/ignition coils, replaced all 3 engine mounts) I also did a lot of overthinking, a lot of planning and reading.

My bleeder screws look ok. I'm sure they will be easy to work with. The car is only 4 years old but has 112,000 miles on it.

I just want to do this as professionally as I can.

 

[Donald]

I bought a Motive pressure brake bleeder and Speed Bleeders. I originally bought the Speed Bleeders so I would have SS brake bleeders. I ended up just using the Speed Bleeders and the Motive is unused in the box. It was so easy to bleed with the brake pedal and Speed Bleeders that I never needed to do anything more.

I would not pull the pistons out of the calipers unless you have new seals and boots just in case you damage them when removing the pistons.

You will need to stop the brake line from dripping once you remove the caliper. I am not a fan on clamping the rubber part to stop the dripping.

Some brake lubricants will swell rubber boots even though they are labeled as disc brake lubricants.

A shop will not mess with the caliper if the pistons go back in easily.

Some manuals specify to replace the bolts that hold the caliper bracket. Most shade tree mechanics probably just use some thread locking compound.

A pro might have a sand blasting cabinet to clean the rust off the caliper bracket. Otherwise a square brake file to clean up the area under the SS clips.

 

[wtd]

I understand the concern. I purchased new rotors and pads like 8 months ago, but have procrastinated installing them because I want to do a full brake haulover. Installing the pads and rotors seems to be the easy part, I want to disassemble the calipers, and deep clean everything, and lubricate wherever necessary, like the piston and the seals. I have been watching dozens of videos on youtube, I have the service manuals from KIFORTE.com and ALLDATA. I purchased new brake hardware, which is that little metal bracket that holds the pads, and also the tension spring that keeps the pads from rubbing on the rotor. I have purchased copper anti seize, ceramic silicone extreme, and silicon paste lubricants. I have also purchased new copper washers, where the brake line is attached to the caliper, it requires a copper washer on each side of the bolt. I have watched so many videos that I know where I need to remove or polish off any rust, where to apply the exact lubricant necessary. I have all the torque specs. I think for the pads/rotors/calipers job I am ready to go. However, I am stuck on the brake bleeding issue.

I purchased this Mityvac brake bleeding tool.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SQYUA?ie=UTF8&th=1

Here's a video on how it works.



This seems to be great choice to help bleed brakes.

I was ready to start this job until someone told me that when you bleed brakes there is some fluid left over in the ABS system, and what you have to do, is bleed the system, put in fresh fluid. Then you have to drive the car on gravel hard, in order to engage the ABS, so that the fluid in the ABS gets moved around with the new fluid, then after that you have to bleed the system again and put in fresh fluid.

This has complicated things for me. And the more I read about this the more I realize I need a scan tool to initiate the cars built-in bleeding abilities. From what I've seen in the ALLDATA service manual, the KDS is hooked up in order to fully bleed the system including the ABS as well.

Since I drive a lot (30k miles a year) and I live in South Florida, the car gets really hot and it's super humid down here. Therefore I feel upgrading to DOT4 is justified.

And you're right, I am overthinking it, because I want it done right the first time. I have had lots of success working on my car so far, and everytime I did a procedure (coolant flush, throttle body removed for deep cleaning, spark plugs/ignition coils, replaced all 3 engine mounts) I also did a lot of overthinking, a lot of planning and reading.

My bleeder screws look ok. I'm sure they will be easy to work with. The car is only 4 years old but has 112,000 miles on it.

I just want to do this as professionally as I can.

I think you are way overthinking this brake job. I've been doing my own brake jobs for probably 30 years and never do most of what you are planning on doing. First of all, a KDS scanner is Kia's factory scan tool, and you don't need it to bleed the ABS system. A lot of aftermarket higher end scan tools can do it. With that being said, I have never had to bleed the ABS systems on any of my vehicles during a routine brake job. If you let air in the system or let the master cylinder, go dry during a bleed, then you will probably have to have a scan tool to bleed the ABS system.
Those Mityvac vacuum bleeders usually work well and is what I have used for years but I had a couple of instances where I had a brake line blow out and after the repair, the vacuum bleed method did not work. I had to have someone help me bleed the system by pumping the brakes as I opened the bleeder. I now use a pressure bleeder which is so much easier and faster.
I would not be removing the caliper pistons, seals, or brake lines if not necessary. You can end up with more problems than you want.

 

[Walter1982]

I think you are way overthinking this brake job. I've been doing my own brake jobs for probably 30 years and never do most of what you are planning on doing. First of all, a KDS scanner is Kia's factory scan tool, and you don't need it to bleed the ABS system. A lot of aftermarket higher end scan tools can do it. With that being said, I have never had to bleed the ABS systems on any of my vehicles during a routine brake job. If you let air in the system or let the master cylinder, go dry during a bleed, then you will probably have to have a scan tool to bleed the ABS system.
Those Mityvac vacuum bleeders usually work well and is what I have used for years but I had a couple of instances where I had a brake line blow out and after the repair, the vacuum bleed method did not work. I had to have someone help me bleed the system by pumping the brakes as I opened the bleeder. I now use a pressure bleeder which is so much easier and faster.
I would not be removing the caliper pistons, seals, or brake lines if not necessary. You can end up with more problems than you want.

I hear ya. If I am upgrading from DOT3 to DOT4, should I worry about leftover DOT3 fluid in the ABS? I have read it's ok to mix DOT3 and DOT4?

 

[wtd]

I hear ya. If I am upgrading from DOT3 to DOT4, should I worry about leftover DOT3 fluid in the ABS? I have read it's ok to mix DOT3 and DOT4?

Dot 3 and 4 are compatible so there are no worries about leftover Dot 3 in the ABS. I would remove as much fluid out of the master cylinder without running it dry and then add your new fluid and then bleed all four corners to flush the old fluid out.