Seafoam vs. In-tank cleaners

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Was working on a car that had severe starting problems and an exhaust leak. Repaired the exhaust leak and a little after that the car would not start. Changed the starter (as the owner burned it out trying to start the car too long), and still nothing except some backfiring through the air intake. That told me there was no compression and probably some open valves (the car would barely start with the throttle wide open). cleaned it up a little and since putting in some Regane, the car starts right up. I know I know "Where does Seafoam come in?" Well the car was treated twice before with seafoam (15 min through booster and 2 hours through booster). Conclusion, skip the seafoam booster #@$%! and get some Redline/Gumout or equivalent.
 
Interesting...

What proof do you have that the starting problem was a direct result of the use of Seafoam?

I've used Seafoam on my cars and never had any such problems.
 
Quote:


Interesting...

What proof do you have that the starting problem was a direct result of the use of Seafoam?

I've used Seafoam on my cars and never had any such problems.




I didnt say that it was a direct result of the Seafoam. What i am saying is that the Seafoam produced no results at all. The hard starting was a result of carbon buildup. Seafoam did nothing to get rid of that (even though that is what it claims to do). And it isnt the only car i have used it on where i have taken out a plug and still saw plenty of deposits on the piston top.
 
A cranking vacuum test will tell you if the no start condition is compression related or not.connect the gauge and disable the FI and ign,on older card disconnect the coil.Crank the engine over with closed throttle 3-5lbs is a good reading,the higher the reading the easier the engine will start,if the reading were 0 i.e. huge vacuum hose off,open valves etc,the engine will not start at all.The lowly inexpensive vacuum gauge is still a viable tool even with the most modern engines.
 
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