Seafoam in the crankcase???

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SBLex

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Ok folks I know Seafoam has been discussed in this forum (and others) before and I've pored through most of what was said and I still can't seem to get a clear answer to the question of whether or not Seafoam should be put in with your oil.

I did the seafom deal this past weekend including putting half a bottle into the gas tank (about 9-10 gal of gas in it) and half into the crank case. After talking with a few people I trust both in forum and off I got the distinct impression that this wasn't such a good idea. now I've put about 30 miles on my Lexus RX since I did this and will probably put another 30 on by the time I can get the oil out (if I need to) so thats where I'm at.

Some of the things written make sense and some dont (just to me) so I'm calling on the collective wisdom here to see I can come to a consensus on whether to dump the oil very soon or leave it in for another 2k or so of the normal OCI.

Some of the concerns raised were dilution of the oil, bits of sludge being loosened and then redeposited (if the oil isnt changed very soon), and the lubricatioal properties of the oil being lessened causing more than normal wear (again if it isnt changed soon).

Now 8oz added to 128+ oz of oil does not seem like its going to dilute it all that severely and checking the oil both hot and cold it does not seem particularly thinner than normal (to the touch) and I'd think the oil filter would catch a lot of the particulate that was loosened (dont think simple hot oil going through the filter would be enough to get back into solution). Of course the feel of the oil does not tell the whole story and it may well be compromised lubricationally, guess it would need an oil analysis to tell for sure. Also there was a theory that the Seafoam would simply boil away eventually, sounds plausible but I don't know

A lot of folks simply say they wouldnt do it, kinda of an instinctual gut feeling thing, dont mess with the oil, sounds logical and I trust these opinions but why then would Seafoam say its OK and certainly there should be a trail of cautionary tales ot there form those who did?

So thats why I'm asking: What do you think about putting Seafom in the crankcase and why??

Thanks a bunch
 
While you can do it - putting solvents with no added lubricity into your oil will dilute your lubrication for a while and could cause some increased wear while in use.

Personally, I would rather use LC20 (in a cleaning dose) which would add lubricity with the cleaning (and I think it is a better cleaner). This would accomplish the same thing without increased wear possibilities.

Auto-RX can work as well, but is a much slower cleaning process.
 
I would chose ARX if crankcase cleaning is the main objective. It is proven safe to run, clean while you drive.
The cleaning esters in ARX are also lubricity supplements.
Parts of ARX also help the oil suspend the dissolved deposits. I can not say the same thing about seafoam. I really don't think that fast acting solvent type cleaners are the way to go.
 
If Seafom is a strong solvent I would rather have Auto-Rx in the engine oil. I do like the idea that Seafoam can get gunk upstream that gas tank additives can't reach. The only thing I would worry about are control sensors. As much as they say it's safe I would be very careful. Anyhow I think that slow and gentle is the way to clean up an engine with something in the oil.
 
Naptha and isopropal alcohol don't sound like lubricating qualities to me. Alcohol in particular sounds tough on cylinder walls, washing off the oil film.
 
Quote:

Naptha and isopropal alcohol don't sound like lubricating qualities to me. Alcohol in particular sounds tough on cylinder walls, washing off the oil film.

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Agreed, but the Pale oil is about 50-60% of the additive and would provide some lubricity, but not much without other additives.
 
Hmm.. Well I would think in the case of the Alchol and the Naptha that they would burn off or at leas evaporate pretty quickly in such a hot environment, and thats part fo the question I had. If the naptha and IPA are gone is it still harmful to simply leave the oil in for a while?
 
Quote:

Hmm.. Well I would think in the case of the Alchol and the Naptha that they would burn off or at leas evaporate pretty quickly in such a hot environment, and thats part fo the question I had. If the naptha and IPA are gone is it still harmful to simply leave the oil in for a while?

Click to expand...


But what exactly will it do in the first place? Seafoam, first of all, is pretty weak compared to some of the flushes. That pale oil just doesn't do any cleaning and is there to offer a VERY slight bit of lubricity. I always went up the harshness scale and used Berryman B-12 Chemtool. It is outstanding as a combustion chamber cleaner. But you know what? Even with Chemtool, I didn't see as much deposit removal as arx. Sure, if you are cleaning components and using a brush, this stuff is great. But just turning it loose in your oil? Nah, doesn't clean that well. It's the same principle as spraying water on a dirty dish verses using a scrub brush. Arx, on the other hand, stays in your oil and has time to do its magic.

Regarding these harsher solvents effects on the host oil, I imagine it would be similar to fuel dilution....
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A couple of things you can always depend on in this forum:

1. most people always think that they need to clean the inside of the engine without actually looking first. It's like washing a plate without actually checking if anything touched it...
confused.gif

2. LC20 and Auto-RX are automatically mentioned as the cleaner of choice even before anyone knows if there is anything to clean
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3. everything that was used for cleaning the crankcase before LC20 and Auto-RX is either worthless or way to strong a cleaner.
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I've used Seafoam in my crankcase - I think I'm one of the few people who replied to this thread and used the product... I've also used B-12 as well as MMO. I've even used Auto-RX - still have a bottle in my basement.

I can say the following:

A. Never add Seafoam or B-12 into a hot crankcase. The stuff will and does evaporate on contact with the metal...

B. When added to a cold engine block, I did find that the ticking or valve noise went away with Seafoam. Of course, I just did a small application (about 2 oz a week for 2 weeks). Also, the engine oil was a very dark colour soon after the applications which says to me that there was a lot of dirt in the oil post-Seafoam.

C. When added to a cold engine block, I did find that varnish on the oil fill location of the crankcase dissolved instantly with B-12. (nothing happened with Seafoam) Also, the engine oil was a very dark colour soon after the applications which says to me that there was a lot of dirt in the oil post-B-12.

D. MMO caused my engine to be smoother and had better starts. In addition, with regular small applications (a shot glass full once in while), eliminated the occasional puff of smoke caused by worn or dirty valve stems as long as I kept using it.

E. After an application of Auto-RX with a rinse phase (which by the way I did longer than the 1,500 miles), the puff of smoke issue in D. disappeared.

As a note, I left each of the cleaners in the crankcase for the full OCI. None of this 10 miles and out you go stuff.

So, each of the cleaners mentioned did something. Which one to use? Depends on what you need to do... And of course, YMMV.
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Not worthless, just not as safe. I'd rather have a deposit or two than damage my engine b/c I've squirreled up the oil. If I were working on a $1000 throw away car-sure, why not. But I care a little bit more about my cars these days....
 
As I understand the Toyota sludge problem and by extension, Lexus, it mainly occurs when people don't change the oil often enough. My son's 2000 Camry has a pretty clear history of 3k oil changes before he got it and has been on Group III synthetic since then. Its unlikely the car has any sludge issues.

We put 1/3 can of Seafoam in it about 300 miles before the last oil change and the oil came out filthy black. So it was doing something. The dipstick was very shiny afterwards too. It is my suspicion that it was a good cleaning and the little bit of solvent that was in the oil for 300 miles didn't do any harm.

So, I think it was the right thing to do for that car. Now if we had a car that we thought had true sludge issues, I think we would have been looking long and hard at other solutions, including possibly AutoRX. I get the impression your Lexus is in the same position as my son's Camry and I would leave the oil for at least 100 miles before draining.
 
Understand sludge keeps forming after you clean the engine. The engine design makes continus production of sludge a reality.

I would never put solvents in engine oil and absoulutely not repeat a solvent treatment.

Auto-Rx works safely and it liquifies the new sludge forming after cleaning and drives it into the filter.

Oil is only a carrier for Auto-Rx.
 
Thanks very much for the great replies, I plan on changing out the oil this weekend and we'll see if I can tell anything at that point. Thanks again.
 
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