Seafoam in crankcase

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Anybody ever add Seafoam to thier crankcase? What can I expect...pros and cons? I currently use M1 and do the factory recommended 7500 mile OCIs in my 03 Suzuki Aerio 2.0L with 40,000 miles. I have a pinging issue and have been using Seafoam for a couple of months(7500 miles)...I use it the tank, I pull it through the vaccum lines and have soaked the tops of pistons...Im due for an oil change and am more than certain Ive got a little bit mixed in with my oil...I think Id just like to do a full treatment, but dont really like to dable with things I dont know much about...although I do trust Seafoam, but dont know the recommended dosage and whatnot. So any experience with this application, comments orr suggestions would be appreciated...Thanks!
 

ShortBuSX

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As much as I appreciate your concern for multiple topics about Seafoam, I did search, there are 2 whole pages about Seafoam...maybe 3(topic) of them dealing with the crankcase, and of those most of the topic turns to "just use Auto-RX" or "uh, Ive only used it in the intake or combustion chamber"...not very many people or posts from people whove done this procedure or are familiar with it, mostly just assumptions "Id only run it for 10 minutes"..."it will dilute your oil"..."itll just burn off"...but the directions Ive read so far say to run it for 200 miles, and that contradicts what Ive read here, for obvious reasons.
 
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Its a solvent, with all the dangers of using a solvent based engine flush. Thats why you see all the AutoRX suggestions. I use Lube Control in the oil to clean, and keep it clean. LC has been approved by the REAL professional chemists on this board.
 

ShortBuSX

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Well it is a relitively low mileage vehicle...so Im not looking for anything too extreme(or costly for that matter)...sure its(ARX)safe, but back to Seafoam.
 

JTK

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Drawing seafoam in thru a vac line is not going to soak the tops of the pistons, it's going to just flash off in the combustion process. If you want to decarb the piston tops & clean the ring packs you'll need to pull the spark plugs, pour a cleaning product directly into the cylinders and and let it soak. I don't see how you can have much of a carbon problem on a 2003 with 40K miles!? G/luck Joel
 

ShortBuSX

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Yes that is how I am soaking the top of the pistons(by removing the plugs)...I have been doing lots of reading before posting. The carbon problem Ive been having was pretty bad, due to it being an automatic(which often lugs me around in OD at 35mph), my (previously)excessive warm up starts, and a PCV with blow by....the Seafoam has been working wonderfully, Ive got another bottle and am interested in using it in the crankcase now, along with additional applications to the fuel, vaccums and piston, just before an oil change.
 
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I have used Sea Foam in the tank and through the vacuum line. I was happy with the results both ways. I also poured 1/2 can in my oil for 100 miles before an oil change. I have no evidence as if it helped or did not. I occasionally use Lucas fuel cleaner and am happy with both products. I have a 98 Chevy 350 4X4 and get 18.5-20 mpg. on a regular basis.
 
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quote:
Well it is a relitively low mileage vehicle...so Im not looking for anything too extreme(or costly for that matter)...sure its(ARX)safe, but back to Seafoam.
if you aren't looking for something extreme- don't poor a harsh solvent into your sump. If you want something cheap- that might offer some extra cleaning to lubricated regions of your engne- dump in a bottle of VSOT, or mix in a quart of redline motor oil, or some "diesel oil extender" to beef up the detergency... [edit] what it really boils down to- is that... not many people here are going to offer instructions on how to use seafoam in your crankcase, for similar reasons as to why you won't find instructions on how to use dish detergent to brush your teeth... Dish detergent may be capable of cleaning teeth, but it is not a very good option- and thus, even the best instructions on how to do it are only explaining how to do something that isn't a good idea to begin with. Ok... having said that- i'll take a stab at it... option 1: poor about 1.5oz of seafoam for every quart of oil into the crank. (so about 6-9oz depending on engine).. drive for about 100 miles. change oil/filter option 2: poor about 3oz of seafoam for every quart of oil(12-18oz, ~1can). gently drive about 20 miles. change oil and filter. option 3: poor 2 full cans in with the oil sump, run at idle for 10 minuts, (no revving, no load).. change oil and filter. option 4: add a very small amount of seafoam to the oil each oil change and leave it in there all the time. (like.. 0.5oz/qt). I would imagine all of those options would do a similar amount of cleaning and a similar amount of damage to an engine. Choose your method. [ October 07, 2005, 11:01 PM: Message edited by: mdocod ]
 

ShortBuSX

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Okay, for one brief topic, can we please lay off all the product endorcements(and mantras) and stay on task? Im asking about Seafoam, and such replies is why I didnt post under one of those other Seafoam topics. And what is meant by "Its a solvent, with all the dangers of using a solvent based engine flush."? What "dangers"? Certainly professional chemists had something to do with Seafoam and its applications?
 
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It all gets down to why do you want to put it in the crankcase. Maybe for one or more of the following reasons; 1. Clean out sludge. 2. Clean out piston rings. 3. Condition seals. ARX will do all three. (maybe more?) Seafoam will not do much for #2 and #3. It may clean out some sludge. However, it may do it too quickly causing some chunks to fall off causing other problems (oil pickup screen plugging). So, the benefit to risk ratio is very poor when considering Seafoam in the crankcase. The benefit to risk ratio for ARX is very good. Of course, ARX is more expensive and you have to schedule and pay for a few oil changes so it is more complicated. However, total cost for ARX can be kept below $35 if you get some oil on sale and buy cheap oil filters. Compare that to one tank of gas. Hmmmm.
 

ShortBuSX

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Geez, thanks for "taking a stab at it"...Im sure others will find your advice "helpful" too [Roll Eyes] its always nice getting advice from somebody with experience. BTW a couple of you are mentioning "damage"...sounds serious, could you please elaborate? Also FYI, on no bottle of dish detergent does it EVER claim you can brush your teeth with it. [Duh!]
 

JTK

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quote:
Originally posted by ShortBuSX: The carbon problem Ive been having was pretty bad, due to it being an automatic(which often lugs me around in OD at 35mph..
How do you know you have a carbon problem? Where are you seeing it? Pinging can be caused by other things as well. Seafoam is safe stuff, you are not going to hurt your engine anywhere with it, but how is seafoam in the sump going to decarb your combustion chamber and/or reduce ping? G/luck Joel
 

ShortBuSX

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quote:
Originally posted by JTK:
quote:
Originally posted by ShortBuSX: The carbon problem Ive been having was pretty bad, due to it being an automatic(which often lugs me around in OD at 35mph..
How do you know you have a carbon problem? Where are you seeing it? Pinging can be caused by other things as well. Seafoam is safe stuff, you are not going to hurt your engine anywhere with it, but how is seafoam in the sump going to decarb your combustion chamber and/or reduce ping? G/luck Joel

Well I havent seen the carbon, Ive ruled out fuel, it could be valve design...but Seafoam has done a wonderful job of 99.9% of eliminating the pinging. What other things could be causing my pinging??? And I dont expect Seafoam to eliminate pinging by pouring it in my crankcase...just looking to keep the engine clean as a preventitive, and I already have a bottle, so WTH, right?
 
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quote:
Originally posted by ShortBuSX: Geez, thanks for "taking a stab at it"...Im sure others will find your advice "helpful" too [Roll Eyes] its always nice getting advice from somebody with experience. BTW a couple of you are mentioning "damage"...sounds serious, could you please elaborate? Also FYI, on no bottle of dish detergent does it EVER claim you can brush your teeth with it. [Duh!]
shortbrainsx, it is called an analogy. Someone takes the time to answer your question and you snidely put them down for it. What a jerk.
 

JTK

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quote:
Originally posted by ShortBuSX: What other things could be causing my pinging???
On an engine that new with that little on the odometer, I'd say it's fuel related. You cant adjust the ignition timing, and if it were hi cylinder temp related due to a lack of EGR, it would throw an OBDII code. A dirty MAF or funky O2 sensor *could* throw off fuel trim enough to cause a lean, hot (pinging) cylinder, but again, that should thow a code. I'd keep tyring different brands of regular unleaded. G/luck Joel
 
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I use it on my 1976 Buick LeSabre. Pour the recommended dosage down the carb and the rest down the tank. It really fogs up the neighborhood. But, it does definitely leaves black carbon deposits on the ground. Good stuff in my book for an old beater.
 

ShortBuSX

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quote:
Originally posted by 'Tard:
quote:
Originally posted by ShortBuSX: Geez, thanks for "taking a stab at it"...Im sure others will find your advice "helpful" too [Roll Eyes] its always nice getting advice from somebody with experience. BTW a couple of you are mentioning "damage"...sounds serious, could you please elaborate? Also FYI, on no bottle of dish detergent does it EVER claim you can brush your teeth with it. [Duh!]
shortbrainsx, it is called an analogy. Someone takes the time to answer your question and you snidely put them down for it. What a jerk.

Im sorry you feel that way...but did you also happen to notice "option #3"? Of "using 2 FULL cans"?!?! I mean advice is great, but even better if you have experience with it, used it, ever bought a bottle of it, or are one of our fine professionals here. Here on BITOG, I wont post in a topic if I dont KNOW and my assumptions are worthless to you who needs help...so leave it to the ones who do know, because its really no help...and BTW I was stating fact, nowhere on a bottle of dishsoap does it suggest it can be used to brush your teeth...another fact is Seafoam does say it can be used in the crankcase on the bottle...so I found his analogy insulting. Back on task, 'Tard, since you were the first to mention "damage"...what kinda damage are you referring to?
 

ShortBuSX

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quote:
Originally posted by JTK:
quote:
Originally posted by ShortBuSX: What other things could be causing my pinging???
On an engine that new with that little on the odometer, I'd say it's fuel related. You cant adjust the ignition timing, and if it were hi cylinder temp related due to a lack of EGR, it would throw an OBDII code. A dirty MAF or funky O2 sensor *could* throw off fuel trim enough to cause a lean, hot (pinging) cylinder, but again, that should thow a code. I'd keep tyring different brands of regular unleaded. G/luck Joel

I buy from only(the same)new gas stations, name brand "top tier" suppliers...Ive always been rather picky about gas ever since getting water in my tank when I was 16. I had originally been using Chevron, but was urged to use Shell for some reason or another, and I did so for over a year. When my pinging was diagnosed as "spark knock" I switched back to Chevron becuase I was told it might be "fuel related"...car still pinged, switched to Amaco/BP, then to "no name" cheap gas for the lack of additives. My car is low compression and is perscribed 87...to run premium for more than one tank makes the car sluggish and I hate the way it performs, but the pinging does go away with the premium...other than that, the only thing Ive found releif with is Seafoam...Redline treatment hardly even helped. I also suspect my service departments consistant overfilling my oil to the top notch on the stick, was causing the excess to blow by the PCV ino the combustion chamber...it would take less than a week for my oil level to drop to where I would normally fill it upto, bout a quart shy of where the tech had been filling it upto...and then the level stays there consistantly with no additional loss. But now that my 36k bumper to bumper has expired I will be doing my own oil changes, so this shouldnt be an issue otherwise I will install a catch can, which I will probably do anyways. [edit]Another thing that makes me tend to believe its carbon, for the first year of ownership I foolishly would let my car idle to warm until the blue coolant light went off...I know better now, but I do believe it was a major contributing factor.[/edit] [ October 08, 2005, 11:14 AM: Message edited by: ShortBuSX ]
 
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quote:
Back on task, 'Tard, since you were the first to mention "damage"...what kinda damage are you referring to?
Asked, answered, try reading your own thread.
 
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