Sandrail trans axle lube

The owner of NEO, Paul just gave me a fast paced 22 minutes dissertation. Wow! In a nutshell shell the molly addative won’t hurt and might help what I want to do. It is compatible. They tend to stay away from it and race teams do not like it for one of the same reason that I never buy royal purple. Royal purple is dark going and that makes it hard to read if it is burnt up or contaminated. The other and probably the main reasons they do not like molly is that it just a black mess. Race teams like clean,clean, clean and molly is not clean. He advised not to use it in engine oil especially on vehicles that sit for time because it can clump in the bottom of pan and even clog filters in some cases. His race oils and lubes only start out with the best obtainable combinations of base synthetics and they buy the best and most expensive additives obtainable. In the right amounts of course. He was very humble, did not brag. He does not have to with the experience with Nascar, Formula one and Desert teams he has. In fact he told me about a tranny issue exactly like mine in NASCAR manual transmissions after I told him about the holes I drilled in my case. They went a step further and pop riveted a metal deflector inside the case to direct fluid to the holes that they drilled. I’m not sure of the policy of promoting or mentioning companies other than their sponsors, but will say that if this company makes a product that fits a niche then I would say give them a try. I asked him about the CV grease that everybody raves about. He basically said that it only the best because it was formulated from the beginning to be only a CV grease. The other ones are just other grease with additives like anti seize and did not start out to be a CV grease from inception. There it is from the horses mouth. Specifically by the engineer that goes by Stumpalump. Peace.
https://neosyntheticoil.com/
 
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The owner of NEO, Paul just gave me a fast paced 22 minutes dissertation. Wow! In a nutshell shell the molly addative won’t hurt and might help what I want to do. It is compatible. They tend to stay away from it and race teams do not like it for one of the same reason that I never buy royal purple. Royal purple is dark going and that makes it hard to read if it is burnt up or contaminated. The other and probably the main reasons they do not like molly is that it just a black mess. Race teams like clean,clean, clean and molly is not clean. He advised not to use it in engine oil especially on vehicles that sit for time because it can clump in the bottom of pan and even clog filters in some cases. His race oils and lubes only start out with the best obtainable combinations of base synthetics and they buy the best and most expensive additives obtainable. In the right amounts of course. He was very humble, did not brag. He does not have to with the experience with Nascar, Formula one and Desert teams he has. In fact he told me about a tranny issue exactly like mine in NASCAR manual transmissions after I told him about the holes I drilled in my case. They went a step further and pop riveted a metal deflector inside the case to direct fluid to the holes that they drilled. I’m not sure of the policy of promoting or mentioning companies other than their sponsors, but will say that if this company makes a product that fits a niche then I would say give them a try. I asked him about the CV grease that everybody raves about. He basically said that it only the best because it was formulated from the beginning to be only a CV grease. The other ones are just other grease with additives like anti seize and did not start out to be a CV grease from inception. There it is from the horses mouth. Specifically by the engineer that goes by Stumpalump. Peace.
https://neosyntheticoil.com/
You can see it in the linked post pic I shared - yes, the MoS2 makes it a grey-black color...very messy stuff.
 
You can see it in the linked post pic I shared - yes, the MoS2 makes it a grey-black color...very messy stuff.
You were right and it is good stuff. I’m going to add it to my transaxle but will probably for the first time in 20 years do something besides mobile one and redline with Molly in engines. FWIW I bought 20 tweeked engines from Mike Burris for a non go cart off label use. Rokon Trail Breakers.
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Mike is probably the go cart king, track owner and engine builder. He had a deal going with Yamaha. YF200R1. It was a bored out steel sleeve and big valve version of the motor Yamaha also built for Kohler. He told me to only use Redline straight 20. I only had one engine come back but it was from an endurance race and the guy took full responsibility. All he asked was to buy a new motor and did not want to talk about why his blew. I suspect he sunk it by the looks of it. I got the old one back to keep my secrets but never took it apart. That oil was the ticket I’m sure. The heavy shock proof I put in my tranny was just too thick for the main bearing. Gears and ring and pinion looked new.
 
You were right and it is good stuff. I’m going to add it to my transaxle but will probably for the first time in 20 years do something besides mobile one and redline with Molly in engines. FWIW I bought 20 tweeked engines from Mike Burris for a non go cart off label use. Rokon Trail Breakers. Mike is probably the go cart king, track owner and engine builder. He had a deal going with Yamaha. YF200R1. It was a bored out steel sleeve and big valve version of the motor Yamaha also built for Kohler. He told me to only use Redline straight 20. I only had one engine come back but it was from an endurance race and the guy took full responsibility. All he asked was to buy a new motor and did not want to talk about why his blew. I suspect he sunk it by the looks of it. I got the old one back to keep my secrets but never took it apart. That oil was the ticket I’m sure. The heavy shock proof I put in my tranny was just too thick for the main bearing. Gears and ring and pinion looked new.
I wanted to try it/use it mainly b/c I'm tracking my VW and figured "why not". So far so good with my r. diff and f. bevel after a few years on the MoS2.
 
I might get tires that are tripple buff but 2 less paddles and see if it lives. It isn't a lube problem, it is a torque/weight/traction vs weak parts issue.
 
The owner of NEO, Paul just gave me a fast paced 22 minutes dissertation. Wow! In a nutshell shell the molly addative won’t hurt and might help what I want to do. It is compatible. They tend to stay away from it and race teams do not like it for one of the same reason that I never buy royal purple. Royal purple is dark going and that makes it hard to read if it is burnt up or contaminated. The other and probably the main reasons they do not like molly is that it just a black mess. Race teams like clean,clean, clean and molly is not clean. He advised not to use it in engine oil especially on vehicles that sit for time because it can clump in the bottom of pan and even clog filters in some cases. His race oils and lubes only start out with the best obtainable combinations of base synthetics and they buy the best and most expensive additives obtainable. In the right amounts of course. He was very humble, did not brag. He does not have to with the experience with Nascar, Formula one and Desert teams he has. In fact he told me about a tranny issue exactly like mine in NASCAR manual transmissions after I told him about the holes I drilled in my case. They went a step further and pop riveted a metal deflector inside the case to direct fluid to the holes that they drilled. I’m not sure of the policy of promoting or mentioning companies other than their sponsors, but will say that if this company makes a product that fits a niche then I would say give them a try. I asked him about the CV grease that everybody raves about. He basically said that it only the best because it was formulated from the beginning to be only a CV grease. The other ones are just other grease with additives like anti seize and did not start out to be a CV grease from inception. There it is from the horses mouth. Specifically by the engineer that goes by Stumpalump. Peace.
https://neosyntheticoil.com/
As to using MoS2 additive in oil, I've done on multiple vehicles without issue. The settling out of suspension question has been debated here many times and to me, it comes down to if you are using the car regularly or not and even then, I'm not convinced this is an issue as it should be re-suspeneded upon start up if it even settled out in the first place.
 
I might get tires that are tripple buff but 2 less paddles and see if it lives. It isn't a lube problem, it is a torque/weight/traction vs weak parts issue.
Agreed. I think 75% of cars at the dunes or more run too much paddle. Their solution is LS power then they run an even bigger tire. I know seasoned vets with an LS that stay in second gear almost all day. Again…Too much tire. Next problem is they need even more power to turn 35’s so they add 650 hp LS and go to a 36”. Same problem again so they add twin turbos. Some run 1300 hp or more. They are cool but there is nothing wrong with VW power or side by side power to do almost the same thing. Ya gotta be able to spin those tires. Comp cuts go down to the threads and you get flats. They are amazing while they last because they are light. I take a belt sander to regular cut tires because a sander works better than a tire grooving iron. I belt sand down all traces of the paddles that have been completely removed and then some but not down to the cords. Next I sand off the side scoops and those ridges on the sidewall. I even sand off most of he raised side lettering but I like to drift every turn. I round the whole side profile of the tire. Next I bring the sander and keep sanding down the paddles until I can light them up pulling hills. If it bogs on hill climbs or out of witches eyes and I’m having to bang lower gears I keep cutting them down. I just pulled 3rd gear the whole way up comp hill at Dumont last week but only with a hard running start. I’m very close but it tells me I need to cut another 1/8” off before the next trip and I can’t wait!
 
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