Safe Jack Stand Recommendation

[haggler]

What do you think about these with pins:
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-AT4600...sed-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=15708041

or smaller/lighter version:
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-AT4300...sed-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=15708041

I have the 3 ton red Torin with the lockin pin. I used them in the rear with ramps in front to do my oil, trans and diff oil changes. They are pretty solid. Order 2 sets from amazon, and if the welds are really shotty then exchange the bad ones. Homedepot has some Husky ones with a pin that looked decent in store.

Harbor freight also has some aluminum 3 ton jack stands, and what I've noticed is they are cast in 1 piece, so no welding joints. This might be a good alternative, but they are more expensive.

 

[Trav]

I wouldn't trust them or any other jack stand from HF. Its not like their iron ones were any good and new and improved made out of old coke cans, no thanks.

 

[Crash Bandicoot]

Y

I don't know about you guys, but I rarely push a jackstand arm up over one click anyways.

Most times its on the base level, and that gives me plenty of height to work on the car.

How high are you jacking up your cars?

Also use chocks on the rear wheels, and keep a jack under the car as a third contact to the car.

It would take some very bad luck for both jack stands to fall to the ground like pancakes, and the hydraulic jack to do the same, all at once.

What cars are you working on? I’m close to the top notch on my 1/4ton with 3 ton stands. My wife’s Rogue 3 tonners barely can get the rears off the ground at the second to top notch.

 

[Dave9]

^ That seems like a good reason to upgrade to (taller) 6 ton stands.

I usually have to end up using a cinder block because I have a gravel driveway so the jack sinks and makes the car too low for a jack stand. For oil changes I do that on ramps so there is no risk of it falling. At work we have some of the real old Harbor Freight ones for the rare times we do use them. I have Craftsman ones I use regularly that will fit if it can get them in before the jack sinks. I also have some vintage ones made from Model T axle housings that another mechanic made they are very strong and durable.

Plywood, OR if you own the properly, get some sakrete and pour a patch... it need not be much, even 3 sq ft would work in all but the muddiest of situations. I mean do it right, dig the hole, use 2x4s for a form, and if you're extra paranoid you could even put rebar in it. If you don't own the property, make the concrete an inch deeper than the surrounding area then you hide it with gravel on top. Besides, a small patch is easy enough to get rid of if you ever need to... or use a thick paver(s), some are over 3" thick.

 

[AutoMechanic]

^ That seems like a good reason to upgrade to (taller) 6 ton stands.



Plywood, OR if you own the properly, get some sakrete and pour a patch... it need not be much, even 3 sq ft would work in all but the muddiest of situations. I mean do it right, dig the hole, use 2x4s for a form, and if you're extra paranoid you could even put rebar in it. If you don't own the property, make the concrete an inch deeper than the surrounding area then you hide it with gravel on top. Besides, a small patch is easy enough to get rid of if you ever need to... or use a thick paver(s), some are over 3" thick.

Great suggestions. I do own the property I may give that a try because it really scares me no having the jack stands under there.

 

[amblerman]

^ That seems like a good reason to upgrade to (taller) 6 ton stands.

Plywood, OR if you own the properly, get some sakrete and pour a patch...

Here's a ridiculous reply for everyone today........

With my tired eyes, I read that as "Plywood Oregon, if you own the property......"

I was quite confused and couldn't figure out who you were responding to..


-A

 

[Dave9]

^ Heh, if it works in Oregon, it'll probably work elsewhere too.