Sae 30 vs 10w30 oil?

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Merk.....I actually agree with this statement. 10W-40 and 20W-50 are my go to grades for OPEs', although I have SAE 30 in my mom's generator at the moment, all the mowers just got 10W-40 yesterday.
 
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
When starting up a lawn mower engine would a thicker Sae 30 oil protect the engine better while warming up as opposed to using 10w30? Isn't 10w30 a 10 weight oil while cold until the engine/oil warms up?
I don't completely understand this. I know that when the weather is colder the 10w30 will be better at the initial start because it's a 10 weight oil until it warms up. Is this correct?


since you're not going to cut the grass in winter, it'll be well above freezing when you start the mower. That means the 10w30 oil behaves like a very thin 30 weight at all times. Consider an xw40 especially in a warmer climate to replace SAE30
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
10W-40 gives you the cold start flow of a 10W-30 while having the durability of an SAE30 when the engine heats up.


Why don't you think 10w30 and SAE30 have the same durability at operating temperatures?
 
There are people on here who say that Amsoil Formula 4-Stroke Synthetic Small Engine Oil is the best oil for small gas engines, but only a HTHS of 3.3. Whats so great about the HTHS?
 
the suggestion by the manufacturer for SAE30 implies HTHS to be important. It's the single most important (numerical) parameter of any oil. too low isn't good, no such thing as too high but fuel consumption could suffer if higher than required.

I understand SAE30 might not be available locally so my suggestion is to get an oil with suitable viscosity, from what IS available.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
the suggestion by the manufacturer for SAE30 implies HTHS to be important. It's the single most important (numerical) parameter of any oil. too low isn't good, no such thing as too high but fuel consumption could suffer if higher than required.

I understand SAE30 might not be available locally so my suggestion is to get an oil with suitable viscosity, from what IS available.


All of them recommends 10w30 as much as they recommend SAE30. B&S is even recommending 5w30 synthetic at all temperatures. Without no hard facts, we can only assume.
 
It would be so much easier if the engine could just talk to us and tell us which viscosity it likes best.
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Originally Posted By: NH73
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
the suggestion by the manufacturer for SAE30 implies HTHS to be important. It's the single most important (numerical) parameter of any oil. too low isn't good, no such thing as too high but fuel consumption could suffer if higher than required.

I understand SAE30 might not be available locally so my suggestion is to get an oil with suitable viscosity, from what IS available.


All of them recommends 10w30 as much as they recommend SAE30. B&S is even recommending 5w30 synthetic at all temperatures. Without no hard facts, we can only assume.


If it's recommended, I'm not arguing...
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In your other post, you said you were running a Kawasaki commercially in Florida.

WHY are you pondering running a 10W30 or SAE30 in a Kawasaki?

Just go down to Wally Mart, buy 5W40 synthetic if you want synthetic, or ANY of the conventional 15W40 oils if you want conventional, or SAE40 oil if you want to run a single weight conventional, and call it a day.

5W40/SAE40/15W40 is what you want for commercial use, in Florida, in a Kawasaki. If you have an Kohler or Briggs engines, these oils will work fine in them as well. Kohler Command engines get heavy duty 10W30 oil ONLY.

I have done thousands of oil changes on commercial power equipment in Florida and am pretty in tune with what works down here.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
In your other post, you said you were running a Kawasaki commercially in Florida.

WHY are you pondering running a 10W30 or SAE30 in a Kawasaki?

Just go down to Wally Mart, buy 5W40 synthetic if you want synthetic, or ANY of the conventional 15W40 oils if you want conventional, or SAE40 oil if you want to run a single weight conventional, and call it a day.

5W40/SAE40/15W40 is what you want for commercial use, in Florida, in a Kawasaki. If you have an Kohler or Briggs engines, these oils will work fine in them as well. Kohler Command engines get heavy duty 10W30 oil ONLY.

I have done thousands of oil changes on commercial power equipment in Florida and am pretty in tune with what works down here.


Is there a reason that you can't use any of those 40 oils in a Kohler Command, other than the manual saying only 30? Couldn't you use the heavy duty 10w30 in the Kawasaki?
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: NH73
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
the suggestion by the manufacturer for SAE30 implies HTHS to be important. It's the single most important (numerical) parameter of any oil. too low isn't good, no such thing as too high but fuel consumption could suffer if higher than required.

I understand SAE30 might not be available locally so my suggestion is to get an oil with suitable viscosity, from what IS available.


All of them recommends 10w30 as much as they recommend SAE30. B&S is even recommending 5w30 synthetic at all temperatures. Without no hard facts, we can only assume.


If it's recommended, I'm not arguing...
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Jetronic said:
NH73 said:
Sometime I may appear to be arguing, but I asking questions to see how people come to there conclusions and see what I can learn from it. Maybe in the old days did OPE's only recommend SAE30, but go buy a new one today and most are least 10w30 and SAE30. So if HTHS of 3.5 or more was important, than why is 10w30 is acceptable and even recommended? Now granted, some give a warning to watch for increase consumption.

As some say on here, just make sure it at least have oil, as all that really matter. What it really has doesn't matter.
 
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Originally Posted By: NH73
Is there a reason that you can't use any of those 40 oils in a Kohler Command, other than the manual saying only 30?


I've fixed enough of them to know that a safe bet is just sticking to the factory recommended 10W30 ONLY. When Cletus demands that you put 20W50 in it against your advice, and then brings it back a week later because it sounds like it is falling apart. Put the factory recommended HD10W30 in and it runs/sounds like new again. Seen it time and time again.


Originally Posted By: NH73
Couldn't you use the heavy duty 10w30 in the Kawasaki?


Could you? Sure. Is a 40 weight better in Florida for commercial use? I think so. Commercial Kawasaki engines are ran for hours on end, in 95 degree heat, in thick grass, which really heats up the oil. I am of the opinion that a 40 weight offers a bit more protection and a bit more of a safety margin, and apparently Kawasaki agrees as they recently updated their engines oil recommendation chart to show that 10W30 can be used under 92ish degrees, while 10W40 or 20W50 could be used safely above 104 degrees.

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Directly from Kawasaki's website:

Kawasaki Genuine engine oils, formulated specifically for high performance constant-speed engines, are strongly recommended for maximum cooling, lubrication and protection. Follow this guide for proper application. For the ultimate performance in low and high temperature applications, use Kawasaki Genuine 10W-30, 10W-40 or 20W-50 synthetic blend.

Although 10W-40 engine oil is the recommended oil for most conditions, the oil viscosity may need to be changed to accommodate seasonal temperature changes. Using 20W-50 oil in higher ambient temperatures may reduce oil consumption.
 
Originally Posted By: hatt
If you're going to use 10w-30 use one of the diesel(HDEO) oils. Most 10w-30s are very thin 30s, much thinner than SAE30 at operating temp.


That's all I use. A HDEO 10w30 in most everything but my pickup. My Detroit 12.7L gets the 10w30, as does my 1.8L diesel compact tractor, my JD Z445 mower with a Kaw motor, and my Yamaha EF2000is portable generator. Nice not having a bunch of different oils lying around. If it is a problem, none of my stuff has shown any signs of it. My JD Z445 has to do 2.5 acres of lawn a minimum of every week during the summer, even at over 100F, sometimes twice. The Yamaha has about 400 hrs on it.
 
I've always wondered what benefit one really gets with a low number before the w, as in a 5w-30 versus an SAE 30, on a splash lubed engine. Some OPE certainly have oil pumps, but plenty do not.

As for HDEO, that would be my preference, although I just used whatever is lying around. It's interesting to note there that Imperial Oil doesn't market any Mobil monogrades that aren't diesel rated. They're either dual rated monogrades or two-stroke diesel only lubes. Of course, there are compressor lubes, but that's another matter.
 
This subject comes up frequently, and always ends deadlocked, for the most part. I think it's a good idea, especially in light of years of experience, to start with a 30w and work from there with your choices. Whether you go straight 30w or xw30 it matters not. If you've got your heart set on 40w or xw40, it's not a huge jump, go for it. These small engines are known to run forever on almost water. I think there is some evidence, anecdotal as it may be, that HDEO oils are a great idea. The extra additives seem perfect for small engines. Sine there is little real world difference between a 30w and a 15w40, it seems a fine candidate. The truth is this is way over thought.
 
I know that often "any fresh oil" is enough for a long ope life. The question about 30 related to 10w30 or say 5w30 is so common and I know that's because there are more tha two variables...

But a good question to answer by us could be something like:
What to look for to be sure that my multiweight is not outperformed by the standard lawnmower 30?
Like "if the multiweight have these properties, X, Y, Z, it will be on par or better than the common lawn shop 30".

I am interested to know what happens with lubricity and protection at temps above 100c, should we look at VI and HTHS and flash?
 
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