rusty subframe
- Thread starter The_Jeff
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So I got it up on jackstands and noticed when I rock the brake rotor (and hub) back and forth with my bare hands and no additional leverage, the control arm and most of the front of the frame rocks in and out. Now I can understand why the previous owner was afraid to take it over 35 mph...
Get at least to coastal NC for junkyards. There are plenty of VA and NC cars with lots of rust on them. If you make it to SC, you're good.
The brake lines on my Buick were pulled from a Columbia, SC yard. Despite being 11 years old, the only damage was a bit of dirt. They were painted before installation, and Fluid Filmed once they were on.
The brake lines on my Buick were pulled from a Columbia, SC yard. Despite being 11 years old, the only damage was a bit of dirt. They were painted before installation, and Fluid Filmed once they were on.
Swapped subframe out last night after the kids went to bed. Took 5 hr this time, I'm getting better. Low humidity, no bugs, full moon.
Egads, Look at the crack just to the right of the bracket where the LCA bolts in. (middle of pic.) Also the lower part is supposed to be connected where there's just a gaping hole. I was able to get a much better ratchet swing on the old LCA bolt, convenient!
Typically the drivers side gets the rot and the passenger side stays good because of motor oil dripping all over it every change. This one was no different.
Egads, Look at the crack just to the right of the bracket where the LCA bolts in. (middle of pic.) Also the lower part is supposed to be connected where there's just a gaping hole. I was able to get a much better ratchet swing on the old LCA bolt, convenient!
Typically the drivers side gets the rot and the passenger side stays good because of motor oil dripping all over it every change. This one was no different.
Good Stuff, now spray the heck out of it with Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector or similar!
The new frame got wirebrushed and ground, rustoleum, black paint, and permatex rubberized undercoating-ed. Incidentally I'm not happy with that permatex undercoating, it scratches easily even when "fully cured." Guess I was expecting more of a rhino bedliner product.
I don't know what year it came out of, the sun bleached the black factory paint to light grey so I think it sat in junkyard inventory for quite a while (and not in the salt.) I'm ok with that!
I don't know what year it came out of, the sun bleached the black factory paint to light grey so I think it sat in junkyard inventory for quite a while (and not in the salt.) I'm ok with that!
I know that Dupont or Duplicolour (Can't remember who) has a Kevlar paint out now for truck beds and it claims to be the toughest out there and tougher than Rhino. Maybe try that next time?
I was thinking about paining my next vehicles underneath with it and then taking it to crown to be sprayed with oil for "Extra" protection.
Yeah I know... I'm nuts...
I was thinking about paining my next vehicles underneath with it and then taking it to crown to be sprayed with oil for "Extra" protection.
Yeah I know... I'm nuts...
I was just going to say, having listened to Stevie too much of late, just drive on up to Canada and get it Krowned. You have that option -- I alas don't...
It's worth the drive IMO! Bring Cheesecake for me when you come!
No lift, or the pics would be better, could get the camera under there.
This was done outside on jackstands with a drop light under a full moon from 2000 to 0100 hours.
With the frame "loose" I could have plugged all the holes with newspaper and put "something" in there and sloshed it all around. I considered melting parrafin, supertech grease, and a little used oil in an old can or something to make my own "waxoyl" but then considered the flammability thereof.
This was done outside on jackstands with a drop light under a full moon from 2000 to 0100 hours.
With the frame "loose" I could have plugged all the holes with newspaper and put "something" in there and sloshed it all around. I considered melting parrafin, supertech grease, and a little used oil in an old can or something to make my own "waxoyl" but then considered the flammability thereof.
Forgive me in advance, as this may be a semi-silly question, but how much integrity did the removed part seem to have once you got it out? It looks virtually "hand breakable". If that's true, the situation would seem perhaps even scarier than it looked at first.
The were a couple spots with shiny metal like a big chunk let go from fatigue, ripping what was left. However you can see on the backside shot that there's still "good" metal behind the crack.
There's a transaxle "pad" mount attachment point a couple inches forward of the LCA mount, on the opposite side from the crack. This may have made the powertrain a "stressed member" retained by mounts on the opposite side. Also the sway bar does radius arm (fore and aft) duty as well, mounting near the outside of the LCA. The parallel relationship of floppy in-and-out LCA and properly attached tie rod mostly made the tire toe (and resultant camber), well, wobbly.
This thing got a new state inspection in Massachusetts back in February... I bet it was rusty then too. Mechanic may have bought the hype that "plastic cars don't rust" and lazily skipped the required frame exam.
There's a transaxle "pad" mount attachment point a couple inches forward of the LCA mount, on the opposite side from the crack. This may have made the powertrain a "stressed member" retained by mounts on the opposite side. Also the sway bar does radius arm (fore and aft) duty as well, mounting near the outside of the LCA. The parallel relationship of floppy in-and-out LCA and properly attached tie rod mostly made the tire toe (and resultant camber), well, wobbly.
This thing got a new state inspection in Massachusetts back in February... I bet it was rusty then too. Mechanic may have bought the hype that "plastic cars don't rust" and lazily skipped the required frame exam.
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