Wouldn't bother fixing but would bother slowing it down. I don't think you can get access to the panel from the wheel well. It's definitely rusting from behind but the panel is likely double layered. You can just drill a hole next to where the door latch is on the body and spray some Fluid Film right at that area. Some people just undo the latch and use the bolt holes instead. That'll stop the corrosion in it's tracks.
Rust. Would you bother
- Thread starter Andrew1972
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Even if you don't do a proper welded repair you can dig this out, grind it good and fill it with metal filler, its much better and longer lasting than polyester Bondo and will last probably until your done with the car. This one is similar to the original Aluma lead.
https://www.amazon.com/14060-All-Metal-Specialty-Filler-Hardener/dp/B0082LFAI6
Edit: Added video
https://www.amazon.com/14060-All-Metal-Specialty-Filler-Hardener/dp/B0082LFAI6
Edit: Added video
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I think either fix it now or don't fix it at all. Now is the time as stated.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Even if you don't do a proper welded repair you can dig this out, grind it good and fill it with metal filler, its much better and longer lasting than polyester Bondo and will last probably until your done with the car. This one is similar to the original Aluma lead.
https://www.amazon.com/14060-All-Metal-Specialty-Filler-Hardener/dp/B0082LFAI6
Edit: Added video
Don't doubt its good stuff, but its the best part of $40 a tin, and it seems like it'd be over-specified for a lot of hole-filling jobs, which usually don't need powder-coated or drilled-and-tapped.
I havn't fully evaluated my punk-technology alternative, since I don't do cosmetic repairs, but I'd say its got potential, and it might have a higher percentage of metal in it than "All-Metal" (where "All" apparently means 11%)
Linseed or tung oil or even alkyd resin might be faster setting but I havn't tried them.
Described here, on the UK based Honest John forum, with the usual flak from the usual resident pompous...er...posters.
https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=116804
Linked picture is unfortunately a bit out of focus probably due to the AF using the ground beyond the target as its datum.
Even if you don't do a proper welded repair you can dig this out, grind it good and fill it with metal filler, its much better and longer lasting than polyester Bondo and will last probably until your done with the car. This one is similar to the original Aluma lead.
https://www.amazon.com/14060-All-Metal-Specialty-Filler-Hardener/dp/B0082LFAI6
Edit: Added video
Don't doubt its good stuff, but its the best part of $40 a tin, and it seems like it'd be over-specified for a lot of hole-filling jobs, which usually don't need powder-coated or drilled-and-tapped.
I havn't fully evaluated my punk-technology alternative, since I don't do cosmetic repairs, but I'd say its got potential, and it might have a higher percentage of metal in it than "All-Metal" (where "All" apparently means 11%)
Linseed or tung oil or even alkyd resin might be faster setting but I havn't tried them.
Described here, on the UK based Honest John forum, with the usual flak from the usual resident pompous...er...posters.
https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=116804
Linked picture is unfortunately a bit out of focus probably due to the AF using the ground beyond the target as its datum.
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: Trav
Even if you don't do a proper welded repair you can dig this out, grind it good and fill it with metal filler, its much better and longer lasting than polyester Bondo and will last probably until your done with the car. This one is similar to the original Aluma lead.
https://www.amazon.com/14060-All-Metal-Specialty-Filler-Hardener/dp/B0082LFAI6
Edit: Added video
Don't doubt its good stuff, but its the best part of $40 a tin, and it seems like it'd be over-specified for a lot of hole-filling jobs, which usually don't need powder-coated or drilled-and-tapped.
I havn't fully evaluated my punk-technology alternative, since I don't do cosmetic repairs, but I'd say its got potential, and it might have a higher percentage of metal in it than "All-Metal" (where "All" apparently means 11%)
Linseed or tung oil or even alkyd resin might be faster setting but I havn't tried them.
Described here, on the UK based Honest John forum, with the usual flak from the usual resident pompous...er...posters.
https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=116804
Linked picture is unfortunately a bit out of focus probably due to the AF using the ground beyond the target as its datum.
I am interested, does it set hard and sandable and can be primed over? I use the all metal when I sand blast stuff that is not through but left the metal badly pitted, once its rust free I wipe it down with vinegar, dry it and swipe a very thin coat of the all metal on it then sand it down. The pits are filled and the job can primed, blocked out and painted.
I use it over welding seams lines and small imperfections in the metal that has no holes just warping or a minor ding that I cant get to from behind to hammer and dolly it, it holds up better than bondo.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Even if you don't do a proper welded repair you can dig this out, grind it good and fill it with metal filler, its much better and longer lasting than polyester Bondo and will last probably until your done with the car. This one is similar to the original Aluma lead.
https://www.amazon.com/14060-All-Metal-Specialty-Filler-Hardener/dp/B0082LFAI6
Edit: Added video
Don't doubt its good stuff, but its the best part of $40 a tin, and it seems like it'd be over-specified for a lot of hole-filling jobs, which usually don't need powder-coated or drilled-and-tapped.
I havn't fully evaluated my punk-technology alternative, since I don't do cosmetic repairs, but I'd say its got potential, and it might have a higher percentage of metal in it than "All-Metal" (where "All" apparently means 11%)
Linseed or tung oil or even alkyd resin might be faster setting but I havn't tried them.
Described here, on the UK based Honest John forum, with the usual flak from the usual resident pompous...er...posters.
https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=116804
Linked picture is unfortunately a bit out of focus probably due to the AF using the ground beyond the target as its datum.
I am interested, does it set hard and sandable and can be primed over? I use the all metal when I sand blast stuff that is not through but left the metal badly pitted, once its rust free I wipe it down with vinegar, dry it and swipe a very thin coat of the all metal on it then sand it down. The pits are filled and the job can primed, blocked out and painted.
I use it over welding seams lines and small imperfections in the metal that has no holes just warping or a minor ding that I cant get to from behind to hammer and dolly it, it holds up better than bondo.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I am interested, does it set hard and sandable and can be primed over? I use the all metal when I sand blast stuff that is not through but left the metal badly pitted, once its rust free I wipe it down with vinegar, dry it and swipe a very thin coat of the all metal on it then sand it down. The pits are filled and the job can primed, blocked out and painted.
I use it over welding seams lines and small imperfections in the metal that has no holes just warping or a minor ding that I cant get to from behind to hammer and dolly it, it holds up better than bondo.
Like I said, I havn't fully evaluated it, since I dont usually bother with that type of cosmetic repair, but it does set hard and I'd bet money that it'd be sandable. Probably no good for filling scratches though.
I've mostly used oilfoil as a rust treatment/paint, for which its very cost effective (i.e. free and very easy) I've never tried over-painting it.
As a filler in frequently wet locations I suspect the oil binder/adhesive might be attacked by mould and something else, like an alkyd resin, would be needed.
I am interested, does it set hard and sandable and can be primed over? I use the all metal when I sand blast stuff that is not through but left the metal badly pitted, once its rust free I wipe it down with vinegar, dry it and swipe a very thin coat of the all metal on it then sand it down. The pits are filled and the job can primed, blocked out and painted.
I use it over welding seams lines and small imperfections in the metal that has no holes just warping or a minor ding that I cant get to from behind to hammer and dolly it, it holds up better than bondo.
Like I said, I havn't fully evaluated it, since I dont usually bother with that type of cosmetic repair, but it does set hard and I'd bet money that it'd be sandable. Probably no good for filling scratches though.
I've mostly used oilfoil as a rust treatment/paint, for which its very cost effective (i.e. free and very easy) I've never tried over-painting it.
As a filler in frequently wet locations I suspect the oil binder/adhesive might be attacked by mould and something else, like an alkyd resin, would be needed.
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When rust has revealed itself on the dog leg of most cars, the outer (quarter panel) and inner fender usually need repairing. If you carry rear seat passengers, get it fixed if you plan on keeping it. When the dog leg is rusted to the point of being visible, it could have lost a good deal of crash protection in a rear end collision. A rusted back end vs one intact can mean the difference between vehicle intrusion or protection.
Originally Posted By: Trav
I use the all metal when I sand blast stuff that is not through but left the metal badly pitted, once its rust free I wipe it down with vinegar, dry it and swipe a very thin coat of the all metal on it then sand it down. The pits are filled and the job can primed, blocked out and painted.
Re-reading it that's a minor imperfection fill/treat situation, rather than filling holes and dings, for which I'm speculatively suggesting crumpled foil based on a single off-the-cuff test.
I have more experience with the situation you describe, where I use the foil as an abrasive. Pits get filled with a self generated aluminium slurry in oil (plus remaining rust,abraded steel, and removed paint), then the oil sets slowly by oxidation.
It holds up quite well on its own, and its trivial to touch it up if there's any bleed through. Once fully set I imagine it MIGHT be over-paintable, but I don't have much interest in doing that (see earlier post) and have never tried. If you wanted to over-paint you might have to look into other binders, such as alkyd resin.
Explained more fully here
http://bangernomics.editboard.com/t178-treating-topsides-rust
though I think you don't see the pictures unless you login.
Curious as to why the vinegar wipe, which I'd have thought would encourage further rusting. Perhaps its for residual rust removal or mild etch of the surface?
I use the all metal when I sand blast stuff that is not through but left the metal badly pitted, once its rust free I wipe it down with vinegar, dry it and swipe a very thin coat of the all metal on it then sand it down. The pits are filled and the job can primed, blocked out and painted.
Re-reading it that's a minor imperfection fill/treat situation, rather than filling holes and dings, for which I'm speculatively suggesting crumpled foil based on a single off-the-cuff test.
I have more experience with the situation you describe, where I use the foil as an abrasive. Pits get filled with a self generated aluminium slurry in oil (plus remaining rust,abraded steel, and removed paint), then the oil sets slowly by oxidation.
It holds up quite well on its own, and its trivial to touch it up if there's any bleed through. Once fully set I imagine it MIGHT be over-paintable, but I don't have much interest in doing that (see earlier post) and have never tried. If you wanted to over-paint you might have to look into other binders, such as alkyd resin.
Explained more fully here
http://bangernomics.editboard.com/t178-treating-topsides-rust
though I think you don't see the pictures unless you login.
Curious as to why the vinegar wipe, which I'd have thought would encourage further rusting. Perhaps its for residual rust removal or mild etch of the surface?
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I will check that out. Yes the vinegar wipe and dry right before application etches the metal slightly and improves adhesion. It also removes any rust particles that you don't see, it looks perfectly clean but look at the towel that was used to wipe the vinegar on and its filthy.
Your are correct, if you don't cover it immediately it will rust very quickly. On aluminum panels etching is mandatory if you want anything to stick to it and hold.
Your are correct, if you don't cover it immediately it will rust very quickly. On aluminum panels etching is mandatory if you want anything to stick to it and hold.
My first "car" was a Heinkel Kabine, which I THINK might have been aluminium, but I didn't realise that at the time.
You could stand up and do Rommel impersonations in it.
Sadly, I've had no further exposure to such exotic construction, though I came close to buying an old Land Rover once.
You could stand up and do Rommel impersonations in it.
Sadly, I've had no further exposure to such exotic construction, though I came close to buying an old Land Rover once.
That's going back a few years, what was the difference between it and the Isseta? The one you post looks like it had 2 rear wheels? Those old Land Rovers were great and quite scarce these days in the US.
https://auction.catawiki.hk/kavels/11091067-trojan-heinkel-604-1-door-saloon-1963
Ouch! Sold mine for 40 quid.
I really should stay off these classic car sites.
Ouch! Sold mine for 40 quid.
I really should stay off these classic car sites.
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